Stator Melting

Hey everyone got a question about my 1984 Evinrude 70hp. I noticed the other day when getting it ready for the season that there is black goo all over the top over the engine, looks like the stator has been melting a little bit. I replaced it last season with another used one in better condition that tested ok. But its melting this one too. My initial thought was a faulty rectifier but upon testing there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the rectifier. I did the resistance test, one direction showed resistance one direction showed nothing. Is there anything else I should look for? I would hate to spend $400 on a new one and have it melt too.

Usually a bad rectifier or bad battery connections

The battery might be the problem then, I didn't think of that. Last season I had the battery cables fail due to corrosion. Possibly that was the cause of the melting. I will keep an eye on it this season and see if it keeps melting before I go for a new stator.

So I replaced timing sensor charge coil and power pack still does the same thing. Could my temp sensor be bad anyway to bypassing it?

I have a Johnson J175TLCCM that has black goo on top of the engine by the rectifier and under the stator, 35 amp water/air cooled. New batteries, cables are good and tight and tach is inop, does zero out with key on. What do I have bad rectifier and or stator?

I have a Johnson Johnson J175TLCCM that has black goo on top of the engine by the rectifier and under the stator, 35 amp water/air cooled. New batteries, cables are good and tight and tach is inop, does zero out with key on. What do I have bad rectifier and or stator?

Melting Stator

How to replace stator and rectifier?

This post seems to have gotten out of hand. Anyway, I am back because there might have been reason to worry about the stator goo. I now have no spark, I did a resistance test on the stator and get about 300 ohms out of the two yellow and yellow gray wire. But I cant seem to find a reliable spec for what the proper resistance is?

http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/IS-173-3724.pdf
http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/IS-193-3408.pdf
http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/IS-113-2138.pdf
There is no way to accurately test these using ohms you need a DVA adaptor to diagnose the system. The most common problem is using the wrong type battery or a bad battery. Use a good old type flooded cell lead acid battery it can handle the higher voltages at higher rpms and adding high amp draw appliances will help use up the power produced at higher rpms. Install a volt meter so you can monitor battery voltage real time.

I guess the option would be rule everything else out then replace the stator if all else fails. How common is it for them to actually fail and give no power? I have also heard that you can tell if they have failed by whether or not the tachometer functions?

I do use flooded batteries and keep them in good shape I will however add a voltmeter to the system. I hope the little bit of melting was caused by the corroded battery cables so the issue is resolved with that. But I will check the rectifier as well. For now those write ups should keep me busy testing the power pack and so on, thanks!