Logo

Evinrude 150 bogs down off of Idle

woode12

New member
I have an 1992 Evinrude 150. It starts and runs great in the driveway. When I put it in the water under load it bogs down and won't go faster then 6mph at full throttle. I have 110 PSI of compression on all cylinders. I replaced the plugs, pickup sensor {eye}, power pack, cleaned the carbs and replaced the spaghetti gaskets {they have fixed jets so no adjustment can be made}. New gas and oil, new primer bulb. Prop spins free in neutral and locks when in gear and you can turn the motor over if you remove the plugs. So I do not think it is the hub on the prop I am at a loss as to what the problem is. If any of you can give your advice/opinion, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Michael
 
Does the engine miss at all or just will not develop RPM above idle?

I suggest you go here and do some reading: http://www.maxrules.com/fixomcoisignition.html

This sounds like an ignition problem, but you'll need to do some troubleshooting to narrow down the problem. Based on your description and the diagnosis for 'will not rev up' it sounds like your problem could be the stator. But, you first need to use a volt meter and measure all the leads in the link to confirm that.

KJ
 
I checked the 6 wire plug that goes into the power pack. I do not have a DVA meter nor do I know or understand how to make one. So I used the chart from the web site and checked with the ohms meter. The Orange to Orange/Black read 98.5OHMS the spec is 50 to 60 OHMS the other sets of wires are within spec. Because of the high reading these that mean I have a bad stator?
 
Do you know if all cylinders are actually firing? Remove one plug lead at a time when running, and then reconnect. Should be a noticeable change in rpm.

The ohm difference may or may not be a problem - you unfortunately do need a dva adapter to trouble shoot these ignitions.
 
I check spark on all cylinders yesterday. They are all firing. The spark was hard to see but it was also 2 o'clock in the afternoon here in the Florida sun. Would the stator couse weak spark? I don't think it's the coils because all the spark was about the same. Kind of crazy for 3 sets of coils to go out at one time. Someone at the auto store suggested maybe the fuel pump does not have enough Pressure
 
Since I did not get any answers I want and ordered a stator. I have checked all the things people have said to check. I think it boils down to the stator or fuel pump. The timing is advancing properly it might not be set exactly be its close. I am not comfortable with the high ohms reading on the stator. I was getting 98.5 ohms and the spec 50 so it double what it supposed to be. I see it this way If the stator is not putting out the power to the power pack the pack won't put out the power to the coils. I am not an electoral guy so i can be wrong. I will take any advice I can get.
 
Here's hoping it's the stator.. as per my previous post and the link kevinj provided, a bunch of tests can be done but require a DVA meter.

You can eliminate the fuel pump by having someone manually squeeze the fuel bulb when the engine is running - if your problem goes away, it's a fuel supply problem.

At least by replacing the stator you'll know the stator is now within spec, even if it doesn't prove to be the source of your problems.
 
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, sans-serif]OK it was NOT the stator. I got the same thing as before. Looking at the paperwork from the pervious owner it had a new fuel pump put on in Nov 2014 the non VRO type. So I have to mix my oil and gas. It sounds like it wants to go but just can't. Did the spark test and I have good spark. There are no fraded wires anywhere. The timing linkage moves without a problem. The hub is not spun. [/FONT]Really frustrated!!
 
I did not know they made a non vro pump.... The pumps vro could be disabled by the mechanic. Common thing.
What happens when you accelerate out in N gear using the throttle , does it rev and down fine? are you getting ful rpms, or

When you rebuilt the carbs id you touch the idle mixture screws.... if they are allowing too much fuel (rich) at id it will flood the carbs and it will bogg the engine when you accelerate. Always do your engine test the water not on the muffs
 
Last edited:
If this engine ran okay the last time you ran it... AND... it has been sitting for some time since... AND... this problem was encountered the very first time you attempted to use the rig............

There is a possibility that the high speed jets are fouled that are located in the bottom center portion of the carburetor float chambers. Yes, I know you said the carburetors were cleaned but the high speed jets are commonly missed. If this is the case, clean them carefully with a piece of single strand steel wire as solvent just doesn't do that job properly.
 
Ok I pulled the plugs and 5 of them are burning nice black/brown and 1 of the is white with water. Is that my whole problem? Will it run on 5 cylinders? Is motor toast? Is there anything I can do shot of total rebuild?
 
Ok I pulled the plugs and 5 of them are burning nice black/brown and 1 of the is white with water. Is that my whole problem? Will it run on 5 cylinders? Is motor toast? Is there anything I can do shot of total rebuild?


Did you ever end up finding the problem? I have a 1990 Johnson 115 that bogs under load as well. I have replaced and clamped all fuel lines, vacuum lines and connections from the tank through the pump and into the carburetors. I rebuilt the carburetors so the needles would seat properly. I then replaced all 4 spark plugs and spark plug wires. I have determined that the motor is bogging because it is getting too much fuel. What would cause this? Or is it getting the right amount of fuel but I have an ignition problem that can’t burn it fast enough? I would love to hear what fixed yours!
 
Did you ever end up finding the problem? I have a 1990 Johnson 115 that bogs under load as well. I have replaced and clamped all fuel lines, vacuum lines and connections from the tank through the pump and into the carburetors. I rebuilt the carburetors so the needles would seat properly. I then replaced all 4 spark plugs and spark plug wires. I have determined that the motor is bogging because it is getting too much fuel. What would cause this? Or is it getting the right amount of fuel but I have an ignition problem that can’t burn it fast enough? I would love to hear what fixed yours!

You should start a new thread. this one is 4 years old. When you do let us know your compression for each individual cylinder and if the spark jumps an open air gap of at least 3/8ths of an inch. And if you physically cleaned the high speed jets ( ran a piece of wire through them). You will get some knowledgeable answers.
 
Back
Top