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1974 Johnson Stinger 2

DitchDoc

New member
Hello to everyone. Seems that you all have some people that know a lot about all kinds of outboards and I am hoping that yall can help me out. I have a 1974 Johnson 70 HP 70ESLR74M on the back of a 1995 Javelin 15.5 foot bass boat. It has been sitting for a number of years but has been run on muffs even while sitting. My father in-law gave my wife and me this boat and I knew that it would be a fixer. It is in pretty good shape overall but needs a little TLC.

I have purchased new 2 batteries, new fuel tank and supply hose. Put new plugs in. Been through the fuel pump, lines and pulled all of the carbs and stripped them down and cleaned and rehabbed them. Everything is free and free flowing. Now, on to the problem. It ran perfect on muffs with everything done in the driveway. You can about look at the key and it will fire. When we took it out, it was a different story. Once in the water, it would idle ok (it has always idled a little fast according to my father in-law.) When you try to give it gas, it sputters out and dies. If you rev it a few times and then let it settle and then put it in gear, it will take off and run without issue. We ran it for a while running 30mph without issue. Stop, and then a fast start, it would take off. If you stopped and idled for a bit, it would die.

Now, we started running everything the way he ran it when he parked it. The adjustment on the carbs was turned all the way in. I was wondering what these should be set at? I have not found anything thus far for an average setting.

Next thing with it, once we got it back, it revved up and would not shut down. After messing with it after killing it at the carbs by choking it out, we found that the timing bar(?) under the fly wheel was creeping up and not coming back. we have tried some adjustment for that, but nothing is bringing it back to where we have it set at idle. We are having to set it back by hand to bring the idle back down.

I know this is a lot and if you have made it this far through all of this, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. I just want to go fishing!!!
 
Note ---there are no carburetor adjusting screws on this model.------Both high and low speed mixtures are factory set !
 
Note ---there are no carburetor adjusting screws on this model.------Both high and low speed mixtures are factory set !

Thanks racer one. I was not sure if the top screw on the carb was an adjustment. It looks like it has an air inlet if you back the screw out.
 
Do you know why the little air channel is milled in there? Not that it really matters, just curious.

Thanks for the help. Any idea on the other stuff?
 
Overall, once you get these motors running...how are they? Is there anything I need to watch out for? Special things I should do.
 
OK, there is a small channel under the hole that the jet and the bolt go into. It looks like if you back the plug bolt out halfway, it would start pulling air to the jet. That's why I was thinking that it was a set screw of some sort.
 
Did you use compressed air to blow through all the orifices. Did you strip the carb down to bare bones to clean it. What do you mean by creeping up and not coming back. See If you can make a video.
 
I pulled the carbs twice thinking that I may have missed something the first time. Stripped everything down and blew air through everything. Everything flows freely without issue. I can probably do a video.

The timing plate moves forward when you go WOT. When you back off, it does not come back to where it was at idle.
 
You need to fix the timing plate could be just stiff from sitting a little gooberd up. That should move freely also stop adjusting things you need to get a manual to help you.
 
I have one ordered. Have not really adjusted anything too much. I know where everything started that I have moved. Maybe it is just stiff, I don't know. It does move pretty freely but might need a good cleaning or something. Is there any reason to have the idle set higher on these? When my father in law had it, he said it always idled faster than normal.
 
It comes all the way to the stop now but the bar does not come back all the way. I'm at a loss with this. What makes sense is not working. I am sure there is something that I am missing, just can't find it. This stuff is not that complicated for the most part once you understand it. That's what is driving me nuts.
 
If your stator spark advance creeps forward but won't go back
Possible that the coil spring in the throttle and stator assembly is clogged with ancient grease and dust. It solidifies and causes the two components...(throttle and spark advance) to stick and not return or give full throttle function.
Disconnect throttle and spark advance linkage
Spray with brake cleaner...thoroughly.
Parts should move freely to the right then spring back
without pushing back.
Move forward and release several times to ascertain
that the spring is free of debris.
I had the same problem with my 1978 Johnson 75 Stinger.
 
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I have 50hp Evinrude that idles rough and loads up making it hard to accelerate. Been through all the tests. Try taking off the motor cover and running it and see if the problems goes away. It did with my 50hp ran perfect. I put the cover back on and the problem re-occurs. It is exhaust leaking into the motor cover. I haven't fixed it yet but I suspect the gasket under the powerhead in the culprit.
 
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