Hi ed - long time! Ive been battling with the motor losing power at higher rpms, an possibly replaced a non damaged stator! ANyway - i did have two pieces come out, but wasnt sure how they went in, so left one out? Does the lower crank seal go thru one of these? ie could having one out cause sealing issues on the lower crank seal?
Lower 2 plugs seem to be wetter, top one tan and dry, and since i pulled lower unit is about when issues started - i have a bag of old stator and parts and if changing switch box doesnt work then i might replace the seals.
Curious what your thoughts are -
hope u are well otherwise!
Howdy, you'd hardly know it's July up in the Pacific Northwest, it was cloudy and balmy today. Or maybe we're back to our "normal" July weather after having 3 hot summers in a row.
Anyway, I think the question about the 2-piece driveshaft seals got answered in the other thread, but at any rate you want to make sure the plastic piece is placed as per the diagram, since it can go on there 2 ways and only one way is right for your 60hp. The rubber piece goes on top of that, just as shown.
Not sure what to think on the running issue, it might be a good idea to clamp a timing light around each spark plug wire as the engine is running. You'll see right away if that cylinder is firing, by the flashing of the timing light. Otherwise there are portable, inexpensive tools known as "firing indicators" which you just lay up against the plug wire and the light flashes via induction. I don't know what they have over in S. Africa!! If you don't have any of those tools, you could find a "volunteer" to grab hold the spark plug. How much voltage it's putting out is calibrated by how far up they jump!!!!! HARR!!
:rolleyes:
If you find that you have spark in all 3 cylinders, then it should be hitting on all three.
You can try a "drop test" where you pull a plug wire, stick a spare spark plug in the boot and ground that to the block. Then fire up the engine and see if that cylinder was doing its share. If the idle speed and sound of the motor is no different than when that cylinder was sparking, you've got issues. Otherwise, rpm would drastically drop on the "dead" cylinder.
If you're really brave, or have that volunteer again, you can pull the spark plug boot back and sooner or later you should hear spark snapping. A bit more and you'll lose spark and the cylinder should drop out. A pair of heavy-duty rubber gloves or insulated spark plug boot tool is best for doing this, in the case of lack of volunteers.
If you have to get deeper into the electronics, you may have to start taking voltage readings. For that you'll need a meter and what's called a DVA adapter. These are widely sold (including here), but I have no idea of the parts situation over there or what you can get from the States.
There is information on how to build your own adapter, it's not very complicated and you might try that if you can't get a "real" one, and the parts you need to build one are available.
I've attached a diagram showing the (3) electronic components required.
Here's a CDI Electronics troubleshooting manual which will guide you in troubleshooting the Merc ADI system and help you interpret the voltage results if you have to go that far into it:
http://www.cdielectronics.com/support/
The downloadable version is probably easier to use than the online one, and you'll be able to print out the various pages needed.
HTH & G'luck..........ed
