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Distributor Connection for 383 Mag Stroker

bobby_z

New member
I am working on MCM MX6.2 MPI (at least that is what it says on the flame cover) and I cannot find the electrical connection to distributor. I am having a hard time finding electrical diagram for this engine online. Can anyone tell me what is the color code for the connection? a picture could help me also.
Thank you in advance.
 
I did find one diagram online about the distributor connection and it indicates that the plug is not used. Can anyone using similar engine confirm this? Maybe that is the reason I did not find a harness for that.
 
the dist only sends the spark thru the rotor to the plug wire. There is no physical plug for the dist. The crank position sensor tells the eCM what and when to do.
 
Thanks for info. the 3 wire connector on the distributor confused me. I wonder what that connection is for.
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I am trying to start the engine. I bought the boat not too long ago and it is sitting in a storage yard. A mobile mechanic did change the starter and also did a compression test. Then when he saw the electrical inlet on the distributor, he tried to look for a harness for it and could not found it. He told me that it does not look like the boat was ever started with that engine before.
The engine is not new and I don't know when it was placed there. I did not look for the serial number on the engine block yet. However the following serial number was on the flame cover of the engine: 1G403186 1G401401
 
I would not place all trust in the flame arrester data. It may be for another engine.

FYI...... the 6.2L is a 377 cu in, not a 383 cu in.



.
 
Thanks for the info. I will look for the serial number on the engine block.
The top of flame arrestor indicates 383 but the sticker on its sides shows MCM MX 6.2 MPI 377 CID.
 
Thanks for the info. I will look for the serial number on the engine block.
The top of flame arrestor indicates 383 but the sticker on its sides shows MCM MX 6.2 MPI 377 CID.


The 6.2L is General Motors' version of the "stroker" engine.

The 6.2L is built using a new 5.7L cylinder block (standard 4.000" bore) , and with a new GM crankshaft (3.750" stroke) that was used to create the 400 cu in SBC engine.
GM uses the lousy, silly, stupid and detonation prone Full Dished pistons in this version.

The 6.3L is a Re-Manufactured Engine using the same basic components, but with a non-standard bore of 4.030".
The re-builder has the option of using a more suitable piston profile for this build.





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I did not look for the serial number on the engine block yet. However the following serial number was on the flame cover of the engine: 1G403186 1G401401
Twin engine I presume?:) What boat brand/year are you working on? Does the boat have Bravo stern drives?

Being a 1G serial number/s they are remanufactured complete drop-ins ready to go and most likely accurate info on top but still check the other serial number location...There is a chance the number may look different starting with I believe a 9.

Here is some info about this engine model for you to know a bit more about this engine specs...https://www.perfprotech.com/mercrui...obtail-marine-engine-865108r80/product/188707

Here is your engine parts catalog for this engine model/serial number. http://www.mercruiserparts.com/selectSerailRange.asp?doc_nbr=383+MAG+STROKER

That CAM sensor was not utilized on this engine model so it shouldn't be the problem specially since you can't locate a wire harness plug for it/them...It's more a plug at this point for your engine. It came from GM ready to be used.

Since it was a remanufactured drop in engine, the factory had it running at one point but anything could have happen installing it if someone installed the engine/s non professionally till the very end and running.

Do you have spark and fuel pressure (< 43 PSI) and do you see the RPM gauge move up to almost 400 RPM during cranking? Do you hear the relays start up the fuel pumps for two seconds at first key up?

Maybe make a video of the engine cranking over. Batteries are new/strong? Do hear any warning horns at or after key up?

Ensure the switch (item # 18) on the shift bracket is centered in the V when in neutral gear. The switch will almost touch but not pressed inward while in neutral gear, only when in gear it should be pressed in to tell the ECM if it's in gear or not. Your shifter looks like this with only one switch and not 2 switches correct?? http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...1.png&inbr=13933&bnbr=240&bdesc=Shift+Bracket
 
Single engine. The boat is 1995 Bayliner Ciera 2655. I don't know the brand of stern drive since it was painted black
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I have more info about the engine based on the tag on the block:
Quick Silver Remanufacturing
S/N: 92502107 Date: 08/29/2013 Part No.: 885108R01 Bore O.S.: 030
IMG_1380.JPGIMG_1379.JPG
I also see some connections with caps on them and most likely never used on this engine.
IMG_1373.JPGIMG_1374.JPG
I do not know about spark, fuel pressure, nor RPM. The only thing the mechanic did so far was changing the starter and compression test. He said the engine is a strong since the compression reading was 160-170 and for some even more.

The guy may come tomorrow to put everything back together and try to start the engine. I will do my best to video the event. The batteries on the boat are old and most likely they are not holding charge. The mechanic did bring a battery with him for compression test.

I am not sure which switch you are talking about (item 18) and where it is located in the engine. I hope the guy knows what he is doing.

Which shifter are you talking about? Are you talking about the boat shifter or something in regards to engine?
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Thanks for all the help.
 
The/your stern drive is an Alpha one Gen 2 drive designed to handle 300 HP on the high side of the spectrum. You have an engine rated at 350 HP so you'll want to be careful when accelerating and running at higher RPM as the drive could start to break down internally sooner than later especially since you have a bigger, heavier boat adding to the stress. You'll want to try and perform more regular gear lube changes to try and help preserve the drive unit.

Any idea of what engine was in there originally? The gear ratio "may" present an issue while trying to find the best over all performing propeller. So be cautious of that too.

Also know that there could be a rubber water pump impeller located between the upper and lower unit stern drive housings as Alphas use an impeller there when stock. Your engine model is/should say bravo on it somewhere? < That typically means the engine normally comes with a engine mounted sea water impeller pump. If so, depending on who installed the engine, some guys will leave one impeller in place, some will leave both in place and some will remove the impeller located between the drive housings and/or cut the intake water hose on the outside of the boat between the transom assembly and bell housing where the drive bolts on using the 6 nuts you see on the outside all in order to only use one impeller which is the engine mounted pump in most cases. If the outside hose is cut then usually someone will install a seawater pickup to the boats hull. Your mileage may very here but as service becomes needed, you will need to know what one/area to repair. https://www.perfprotech.com/blog/articles/thru-hull-installation

The fuse missing will be the same yellow 20 AMP as the other 2.

The plug connectors you show are for updated smart craft features and digital trim gauges to sending units...Being a 1995 boat with most likely older model stock along gauges??? You wouldn't/shouldn't need to use them at this point.

Not sure why you have/show 2 serial numbers that started with 1G ?. Being a reman, you'd have to use the 1G number to id engine parts like I linked above but don't lose the 92502107 number as that would be for a Mercruiser dealer & factory use if/when needed....It's confusing I know but keep them both handy. Is the guy helping you Mercruiser trained? still working at a merc dealer? If so how long? Just some things you may want to know about him.;)

Item number 18 is located on the right/starboard side of the engine/boat when facing the bow. It's mounted to the exhaust manifold/riser. In both of the engine photos you can see the set/s ? of purple wires going to the shift cables assembly mounted on the starboard exhaust assembly. Is there one or two switches mounted to that shift bracket assembly??

A bravo drive uses one switch while an Alpha drive uses two switches like seen here, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...nbr=15322&bnbr=380&bdesc=Shift+Bracket,+Alpha

Being the engine is/was a bravo designed engine, it would have come stock with one switch...But since you have an Alpha drive unit, someone would have needed to install a newer model Alpha shift assembly that utilizes two switches on this MPI engine model in order to make the shift interrupter switch work properly. I'm just trying to help ensure it's the correct shift assembly due to the two different design models you seem to have. < One being a Alpha drive mounted to a bravo designed engine. If the shift interrupter switch isn't connected or adjusted correctly then the engine won't start due to no spark as the shift interrupter switch is designed to interrupt spark during shifting out of gear on the Alpha stern drives for a very short timeframe.

Your engine model running,
https://www.perfprotech.com/mercrui...obtail-marine-engine-865108r80/product/188707

Where are you located?
 
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boat_tech,
thank you for all the help and information. And you are right; it is very confusing.
I have no idea what engine was in the boat previously.
Anyway, the engine did start (I don't know how to post video here).
And yes. There is a seawater pickup and that was the source of water during the engine run. The 20 AMP fuse was also replaced.
The guy helping me is a mobile boat mechanic that comes to my place. He said he has been working on boat engines for 15 years. But I don't think he was trained mechanic specifically for Mercruiser.
The next thing is changing the impellers. I will use your links to see the part numbers.
Here is the picture of shift assembly. I think there are two switches there.
IMG_1396(1).JPG
I am in Los Angeles area.
 
Well cool at least you/he was able to get the engine started.:) Was he able to determine why it wouldn't start the first time around?

It looks like who ever installed the engine knew to (and how to) install the correct shift cable bracket assembly for the Alpha drive you have over the bravo style assembly that should have came originally on the new engine so that the mercruiser shift interrupter switch works properly with your drive system which has been know to create a no start condition which you may have needed to know about should the engine still not have started yet.;)

With 15 years under his belt, I'm sure he has a good enough grasp on things now to be trust worthy enough for you to use whether trained by Mercruiser or not so you should be in good hands with him especially since he was able to get it running...... If not then I would of mentioned we do have many good servicing dealers here in the Southern California area as I live in the I.E. :)

Good luck with dialing it all in.
 
In fact, he was waiting to find more information about why there is no connection to the distributor (shown picture in post #4). So he didn't even try to start it.
When that was resolved, the next problem was some kind of fuse next to the starter. He didn't had the fuse with him, so he did hot wired it to start the engine (the fuse will be replaced next time he comes over). Before all that, the starter was changed (it was all rusted).
During his next visit, he will change the water pump impeller and the impeller for outdrive.
 
If your talking about the square plastic block at the starter consider re-wiring the main power(red wire) directly to the starter stud and just leave the orange wire connected to the stud.the alt feed is protected by the 90A fuse link and the ships power is protected by the 50 A breaker.
If left in its original configuration and the 90A should go bad the alt is not connected to a battery and can run wild at over 28 volts.This would overload every electrical component in the boat.
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