Safe-stop wires don't match color. 225's

Hi All.....I am almost ready to fire these up for the first time. The last puzzle is hooking up the kill switch (Safe Stop). I have 2 solid black and 2 solid red wires coming off the back. The only available remaining wires in the harnesses have the correct plugs, but non-matching colors: solid black and black with red stripe.

My manual says the wires coming off the back should be Blk and Blk/red. As stated above, that's not what I have. I do have those colors coming out of the harnesses.

All other connections have been made and were straight forward. These are the last wires, and logic would suggest they are mates, but without a color match.......I want to be careful.

Does anyone have the answer?

What year is your motor? & what happens when you turn the key with them disconnected? Do you have a wiring diagram to check. I would try to download the workshop manual to double check everything else is as it should be. Try boat info.no for your manual.
good luck.

The info I have comes from the wiring diagram in my Honda shop manual. 2004 motors. The manual shows blk, blk/red coming out of the safe switch., but I have solid blk and solid red coming out.

As I said, I have blk, blk/red coming out of both harnesses. So the colors don't match up.

I'm away from my boat and from my shop manual, so what follows is speculation. I hope someone has a more definitive answer.

I believe that the only function of the kill switch is to ground out the stator. When the engine is running normally the circuit is not complete. Activating the kill switch completes the circuit, killing the engine. Consequently, it probably doesn't make any difference which wire goes to which. So black to black and red/black to red. But before hooking up, and with the key switch turned on, test to make sure that there is no voltage on either wire coming from the harness and that the black wire has continuity to engine ground.

I'll do the tests you suggest CHAWK, however the schematic shows clearly that black is ground, and black/red is "hot" running from the SS to EMS 1 and 2 on the ECU. So, even though I have solid red leads coming out of the SS, they almost certainly connect to the blk/red going to the ECU.

It's possible that my ignition panel was a replacement from another year, when solid red was the color they used. I will trace blk/red to make sure it goes to the ECU. If so, I believe this issue is solved.

If you are using the dual key switch panel, looking at the back of the safety switch there is normally a red plastic cover over the switch itself (it also encloses a couple of diodes). There are red and black leads coming out of that cover. The red lead gets connected to the black/red in the harness and the black gets connected to the black.

If you want to test the leads first for your own enjoyment....use an ohmmeter and connect to either set of red and black. Operate the safety switch, it should show you an open circuit with the switch in the run position and a short when you remove the safety landyard. If it does not work that way, reverse the leads and try it again. It should work then. The diodes prevent the meter from operating if the leads are not connected in the consistent polarity.

Unfortunately, there are no published diagrams of that wiring that I can find, other than the diagram that comes with the switch assembly....which I do not have at this time.

Mike

hondadude said:

If you are using the dual key switch panel, looking at the back of the safety switch there is normally a red plastic cover over the switch itself (it also encloses a couple of diodes). There are red and black leads coming out of that cover. The red lead gets connected to the black/red in the harness and the black gets connected to the black.

Click to expand...

That is exactly what I have. And this is what seemed must be the case. Thanks......