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replacing top seal on lower unit 60hp 1970 hydro electric johnson

The plunger sits in a bore.--------1/64th below top of that bore.--------The compound on top is not used to do any measuring !!------Just maybe I will have a look at some solenoids / plungers in the next few days to compare with yours.-----Lots of then on hand.
 
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Sorry I tell a lie, the lower plunger sits below the actual solenoid body. The upper plunger is about bang on even with the solenoid body. That's excluding the rubber caps, being at least 1 mm thick.
 
SUCCESS! Ok so I rewired the solenoids from inside the casing this time, theory being that oil is not conductive so any deficiency in the insulation so long as protected from the earthing to the casing shouldn't cause a short and I also noticed the spacer between the two solenoids can actually make a difference to the positioning of the top solenoid. I inserted it opposit side up this time around.

At least on the bench test using 12volts the prop shaft is behaving exactly as it should be.

Now I'm ultra positive about this hairbrained adventure and continuing to spend money on this lovely old motor doesn't seem like the nail biting affair it was just a few days ago.

I would like to thank joereeves and racerone along with the forum for all the invaluable advice you guys have given me from your wealth of experience.

Thanks guys, I really mean that :)
 
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Fired it all up today everything is working as it should.

My advice to anyone with this motor is to do the top seals and bearing if needs be, the rigmarol is all detailed earlier in this thread and to ensure the loom from the solenoids is 100% water tight. Do the impeller and housing while your in there.

Even the smallest breach in the loom to the solenoids will cause a malfunction. Being a wet area, I totally removed the old loom and used an oil proof silicone gasket to plug the pass through on the cap.

Of course for people who don't mind spending the money, they could track down a new vintage loom.
 
Len walls said:
Fired it all up today everything is working as it should.

My advice to anyone with this motor is to do the top seals and bearing if needs be, the rigmarol is all detailed earlier in this thread and to ensure the loom from the solenoids is 100% water tight. Do the impeller and housing while your in there.

Even the smallest breach in the loom to the solenoids will cause a malfunction. Being a wet area, I totally removed the old loom and used an oil proof silicone gasket to plug the pass through on the cap.

Of course for people who don't mind spending the money, they could track down a new vintage loom.
Click to expand...

Jan 2017, motors still going like a trooper.

Just to clear up the confusion for anyone reading this with the same or similar problems:

I totally removed the old wires from the top end to the solenoids in the gear casing.

I used standard marine grade wiring from the local electronics store.

Resoldered directly to the wiring at solenoids themselves using a heatshrink wrap to insulate. This proved to be crucial as i was experiencing voltage drop trying to repair the wires elsewhere in the loom. The gear oil retards conductivity.

The wires pass out of the gear casing, i used an oil proof polyurethane/silicon to replace the factory rubber seal.
 
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Oil is not conductive, therefore sins in soldering or insulating are not so damning as they are outside of the gearcase. Its the same logic they use in high voltage electrical installations, they insulate and cool using oil. Because its non conductive to electricity!
 
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