FWC Kits

I need to convert my Raw water engines to Fresh water. Crusader parts list calls for 22816 which I have found. Has anyone had any experience installing this kit?

Engines are 1993 454XL with carbs.

Many have tried this without success. The problem is RUST--it will continuously clog the heat exchanger.

Jeff

Hey Jeff

Thanks for that information. I had not considered that as a problem. Wouldn't the rust be less of a problem than running salt water through the engine? I'm just saying could I clean the heat exchanger on a regular basis? Or is there a way to minimize the rust?

bpidan said:

I need to convert my Raw water engines to Fresh water. Crusader parts list calls for 22816 which I have found. Has anyone had any experience installing this kit?

Click to expand...

These would be "Closed Cooling Systems".

Jeff is correct...... there is always a potential issue with dislodged rust scale that may clog things up.

Within the Heat Exchanger, there is a tube bundle.
The seawater passes through the tube bundle, and the E/G (ethylene glycol coolant) circulates around the tubes of the tube bundle.
Dislodged Rust Scale will eventually build up between the tubes and will hinder their ability to remove heat from the coolant.


Here's what has worked for many who have added a Closed Cooling System to a previously Raw Water cooled Engine.

Install the system.
Run the new system for approximately 10 to 15 hours engine run time.
Drain and capture the E/G coolant.
Remove the H/E (heat exchanger) and flush it real well.... perhaps with hot soapy water.
Capture the contents in a clean white 5 gallon bucket.
Examine for rust scale.


Re-install the Closed Cooling system H/E and repeat this process in another 20 hours or so.

Eventually the rust scale debris will dimenish to a safe level.


Perhaps do this once again in 100 hours.




.

Thank you Ricardo, That was what I was hoping. I would think constant attention, draining, flushing would at least minimize the problem. Less expensive than a new engine.

Another item to ponder - your engines are over 20 years old.....so, depending upon what water they have seen, they may be viable or they may not be. Agree that the kits are an order of magnitude cheaper but the hassle factor could make it a wash.....just something consider

Both engines have 350 hours on them. We have a tiny lake here in Colorado so while we use the boat most every weekend, we do not have far to go thus the hours are very low. That is one of the reasons I am looking to keep and transport to Florida. I can sell here and buy there but I am looking at all my options. transport is about 12k as well. We have updated everything, wood floors, corian countertops, all upholstery complete canvas top and bottom. Not really interested in buying another old boat and doing it again.

Thank you for your input.

Guys that restore old cars will run a cleaner though the block to (hopefully) remove rust. HERE is a link to one that is used. Of course in your case you will have to put the closed system in before using the cleaner as it must be circulated hot for several hours.

Bpidan, Mark makes a good point, and I will add that time (in terms of years) is more significant than actual engine run time. Rust never sleeps once it has begun.

Back to the flushing of the heat exchanger for a minute:
In my opinion, it is imperative that the heat exchanger be removed from the engine in order to shake it up while flushing it, and then empty the contents into a clean container.

Flushing the system with the heat exchanger still attached to the engine, is not going to cut the mustard!

.

I want to thank everyone who chimed in. You have given me much to think about and I am thinking I just may go ahead and sell here and buy there. Kinda depends on what I can sell it for here.