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2001 HPDI 200 blowing ignition fuse on motor

Cleaned battery cables. Blows fuse on Battery both #1 and #2. Only blows fuse when I crank it. Can I run a jumper cable from Battery right to starter and ground -- to bypass cables going through transom? Could they be half broken? Or do I have to hire someone with a scaner? Thanks For Your Help. John Waterloo
 
THANKS for the advice. Things changed. Now it blows ign fuse as soon I turn key on with original set up. Disconnected original cables and Ran a jumper straight to battery and pops fuse as soon as key is turned. At least now it does the same all the time and I bought a box of 25 fuses. Any other Ideas would be welcome. Thanks Again John
 
So it is probably either:
- the main power wire from the starter switch back to the engine
- an issue with the engine electronics
- or quite possibly an issue with the switch itself

The switch would be my first thing to check as they are not an uncommon fault. You need to pull the wiring diagram and identify the +ve wire from the switch back to the engine so you can try bypassing the switch. You can even do the bypass at the engine with a bit of fiddling so that you bypass the wiring loom as well.
 
do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?if so then set the meter on rx1 and zero it...disconnect the positive lead at the battery...take a reading from the disconnected lead to motor ground....write the reading down...then turn the key to on....take a reading and write it down...now turn the key to start...take a reading and get back to us with the 3 readings please..
 
I am working on getting a multimeter. My old one is not working. By the way I have twin engines so I could try switching some parts but don't want to end up with 2 motors not working. LOL Thanks John
 
Readings in the 20K position
Base line w/both meter wires together .03
Disconected lead to ground 0
ign. on 3.28
start position .03
Thanks John
 
''Disconected lead to ground 0''....do you mean no reading(infinity) or zero ohms?

if infinity then disconnect the wires to the pick of the starter solenoid..then disconnect and separate the wires at the positive post of the solenoid.. with these wires disconnected what is the reading with the meter leads in the same place..(with the switch to start)_

the pick is the small terminals on the solenoid,....when the start switch is off the kill switch is connected to the power pack and grounds it to kill the engine..when it is on this line is floating...when it goes to start then 12 volts are supplied to the pick of the solenoid..what we are doing is isolating each positive wire in the starter area...one of these wires will also feed other areas with 12 volts...there is a possibility that the regulator is the culpit...this is one of those wires..i am operating without a wiring diagram so if anyone wants to step in feel welcome...
 
I finally was able to get a dock side mechanic to look at motor. He knows just a little more than me so after calling 6 yes 6 different people I was glad to see him. Long story short . When we switched ECM mounted on heat sink and 6 coils and spark plug wires from other motor it worked. Any possibility it could be anything else in the assembly besides the ECM? He says I need a ECM which I can buy myself. $1800.00 list. I have not started shopping. All mechanics in FL.Keys are way too busy. Thanks for any input. John
 
Finding out the correct name for part is 68F-8591B-00-00 yamaha driver Found a few used on ebay around $400. Has anybody heard of these going bad? This must be problem but I wish I could tell for sure. Thanks For Listening! John
 
I been following your problem. I also have twin HPDI 150,. Hope I don't have your problem but like to know what fixed it.
One thing you said you swapped the coils and spark plug wires alone with the ECM . Did you try to returning the coils and wires to see if it blows the fuse. Leave the ECM on the good engine and see if blows the fuse. Before I spend $$$ I would like to know.
I just had a mechanic tell me that my twin start switch was bad because I had two different problems on each engine. Well after spending close to 300 dollars he was wrong. One was a started ground wire goin to the relay was bad and the other was just fouled plugs. Can't assume anything .Keep checking before you spend the big bucks . Good luck. Let me know what you find.
 
Waterloo said:
I finally was able to get a dock side mechanic to look at motor. He knows just a little more than me so after calling 6 yes 6 different people I was glad to see him. Long story short . When we switched ECM mounted on heat sink and 6 coils and spark plug wires from other motor it worked. Any possibility it could be anything else in the assembly besides the ECM? He says I need a ECM which I can buy myself. $1800.00 list. I have not started shopping. All mechanics in FL.Keys are way too busy. Thanks for any input. John
Click to expand...

Part of this is irrelevant. The coils and plug wires have no power when engine is off or even with keyswitch to the on position.

Don't throw your money away yet, or send me some for saving you a ton of $$.

First, remove blown fuse. Connect meter red lead to one side of fuse and black lead to ground, use volts DC scale. Turn switch to on, should read 12+ volts. If not, connect red lead to other side of fuse, now should see voltage.

Now we know which side of fuse is positive/negative side, turn switch off. Now connect red lead to negative side of that fuse block, connect black lead to engine ground. Turn meter to ohms scale. Since we know something is shorted/grounded, the meter should read > 1 ohm. If it was ok, the meter would read 0 or infinity.

Now, all you can do is start disconnecting the wires to each component (which is fed from the negative side of the fuse and this could be quite a few different wiring connections). You really need a wiring diagram unless you know the engine wiring. Most people don't and even with a diagram it can get very confusing.

For each wire you disconnect, look at meter. When resistance goes to 0 or infinity...You've now found the problem!
 
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