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1994 15hp Evinrude Issue

keadams

New member
I have what i believe to be a 1994 Evinrude 15hp outboard. I had the carbs cleaned and new kit installed in July along with water impeller and housing. Only ran it for an hour or so right after that and it has been indoors until yesterday. Took it out and it ran fine for about 10 minutes under power and then died. Would not crank back up for nothing so trolled with electric motor rest of day. BTW, it was peeing water good before it quit. I put muffs to it today and sprayed some fuel in the carb and it fired up. Ran good for a few minutes and shut back down again. The primer bulb always seems pretty hard like fuel is not getting into the carb. In addition i have a small water leak around what i think to be the tstat cover. Thoughts on what my issue could be? I have never replaced the T stat and not sure how they work? Could the float or needle be sticking causing fuel not to get into carb? Thanks for all the help.
 
If the engine runs only when you spray fuel into the carburetor throat... that would indicate that fuel is not flowing through the fuel passageways. Double check your carburetor work.
 
Thanks to all for the details. I pulled the carb and checked everything and all seems clear and it is getting fuel. I guess my main question is the motor was running fine and when my son took it out last but the longer it ran the slower it seemed to have gotten. Could that be due to getting too hot and of so do these things have a sensor built in that shuts them down if they get too hot? I fired it up this morning and runs like a champ but i need to fix the o ring on the t stat cover as it is leaking pretty bad due to wear but before i do that i wanted to see if the experts recommended replacing the t stat as well or anything else i should check? Thanks again for all the expert advise.
 
Impeller and housing is brand new. Just performed compression check and both cylinders are 78-80lbs per. Not sure what they should be at however both at the same. The only other thing i was thinking is if the t-stat was possibly bad and say not closing could the water be flowing over the head so fast that it was not keeping it cool enough?
 
??----Sorry, no such thing as water flowing too fast and not cooling ?----Another tall tale that some folks believe.
 
Thanks guys... I am going to seal up the T stat o ring with permatex and crank it tomorrow with muffs and put my hand on head. I will let everyone know how that goes, I assume the compression at 78 per cylinder is OK?
 
Apparently the "running slower and slower" mention that took place when your son was running it was due to either the water pump failing OR something covering up the water intake (plastic bag?). In either case, the engine slowed down due to overheating BAD!

Remove the cylinder head, carefully clean the sealing surfaces of the cylinder head and block, install a new head gasket and torque the head bolts to their proper specifications as per your service manual, starting with the center left bolt and then tightening in an ever widening circular motion. Also, install a new thermostat and tighten all other power-head bolts, screws, nuts.

Then, drop the lower unit and install a new complete water pump assembly.
 
Ok folks. I did all of the above, removed head, cleaned and replaced head gasket, t stat and water pump impeller, Motor cranked right up and ran great for about 8-10 minutes pumping good water out of the pee hole. After about 8 minutes or it started breaking up a little and then finally shut down. After that it would not start back up. Could this be the coil or power pack getting hot and not firing after 8-10 minutes? Thoughts or next steps please? Thanks,
 
Remove the spark plugs and double check the compression.

With the spark plugs still removed, check that the spark will jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP!

If you have compression but no spark.... find the black/yellow wire leading from the powerpack to whichever component it is connected to, either a ignition switch or a stop button... in either case, disconnect that black/yellow wire and retest for spark. If you now have spark, whatever that black/yellow wire is connected to, it is shorted out.

(Reminder)-Note that the cylinder head bolts must be torqued to factory specifications as per your manual in the following sequence where each number is a head bolt.

5....6 Continue on in an ever widening circle.
1....2
4....3

It is possible that other bolts/screws/nuts of the powerhead weren't checked and tightened which may be allowing small traces of water enter the cylinders. Check the spark plugs for minor traces of water.
 
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