how to support and reinstall 270 stern drive

Hi All,
I removed my 270 stern drive about 2 years ago and I need step by step instructions on how to support the stern drive - blocks- straps?while trying to install the u joint, shift cable and bellows-- looks a little difficult-like there will be a lot of squirming and tight fit with the hands- some tips please
thanks,
tmcboat

You are absolutely correct!
Removing and re-installing a complete AQ series drive is difficult. You would be fighting the S hose-to-water-neck connection, the shift cable bracket, female yoke-to-PDS connection, exhaust bellows, etc.

I will suggest that you remove the transmission from the Intermediate housing (2 cap screws and 2 nylock nuts).
Disconnect the vertical linkage from the eccentric piston by removing the clevis pin.
DO NOT disconnect from/at the gear yoke! (the linkage rod left attached to the brass eccentric piston arm has lots of leverage...... one boo boo, and the the piston arm can become bent!)

Now install the Intermediate housing and lower unit together as a unit.
Insert the suspension fork between the two transom shield hinge pin bosses, and then install the hinge pins.

This leaves the S hose, water neck fitting and shift cable bracket area open for easy access.

Once installed and all connected up, now you will install the transmission.
It can be turned sideways a bit to help slide the female yoke onto the PDS.
The transmission's vertical shaft will slide down onto the vertical shaft coupler. Wiggle it if needed!

This method will cost you 4 new O-rings...... one oil drain back tube O-ring, one large bearing retainer O-ring, one dip stick O-ring and one drain plug O-ring.



BTW, if you have not replaced the PDS bearings, now would be the time!



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Hi Rick,
you and the other support guys have really helped me through some difficult task.
I believe your method seems easier but still a little challenging for me but I am going to try it. I believe somewhere in a service manual it said to apply some kind of water proof gasket sealer when setting the gear box in place- what kind and how much to apply so there is no leaks when I bolt the transmission on to the intermediate housing and do I put blue loc tite on the bolt threads or some kind of anti seize thread compound? your suggestions please.
Thanks,
tmcboat

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tmcboat said:

Hi Rick,
you and the other support guys have really helped me through some difficult task.
I believe your method seems easier but still a little challenging for me but I am going to try it.
Yes.... much easier than trying to remove or reinstall a complete drive assembly.

When you remove the transmission, carefully inventory the shims that will be just underneath it.
These shims must go back in just as they were.

I believe somewhere in a service manual it said to apply some kind of water proof gasket sealer when setting the gear box in place- what kind and how much to apply so there is no leaks when I bolt the transmission on to the intermediate housing

O-rings intrinsically do not require any sealant.
The areas around the perimeter of the O-ring are sometimes subject to what we call "crevis corrosion".
If in fresh water, water-proof grease works well.
If in ocean water, QuickSilver "Perfect Seal" works well, and is what I use.


and do I put blue loc tite on the bolt threads .............
Not necessary.

or some kind of anti seize thread compound?
Automotive Never-Seeze or Anti-Seize contains conductive materials, and should not be used below the water line. If used below the water line, these conductive materials will cause problems.

There is a Marine Anti-Seize that does not contain any conductive materials.
Or you can use a thread sealant to prevent water intrusion into the threaded areas.

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