1986 10HP BF100e Shift Lever Replacement

Shift Handle broke off leaving just an inch of lever making it difficult to shift.

Purchased a new shift lever, took a week for boats.net to get it.

Have Factory SM and have done exhaust pipe, cylinder head etc., etc., but am stuck now on just removing old shift lever.

I have removed both bolts (shift bellcrank & neutral sensor) and shift rod won't slide out. Plenty of grease in there (no corrosion) and it has moved less than an inch on its way out. I have removed the neutral sensor as well but both 'shaft cams' seem loose enough. I can relieve the pressure on the detent roller spring.

Page 87 on changing to a remote shift lever says

"NOTE: If the shift is difficult to remove, expand the shift arm groove with a screwdriver"

Click to expand...

Their photo has a oval below the shift arm bolt but can't see anything in their oval. I'm guessing they mean what the removed bolt had held tight...

Page 38 shows a "Groove" lengthwise on the shaft, not seen on original or new shaft, just the two quarter-round cutouts for the bolts and a flat spot on last quarter inch.

Do I just need a big hammer to drive it out, or am I missing something?

Wishing I'd just stuck a 3/8" pipe over the broken shift lever stub...

Thanks for any help on this issue,
Art

I will probably "booch" this explanation up pretty bad but MAYBE you will get the "gist" as they say. So....here goes;

Yes, the bolt needs to be completely removed. Then, you can get a slot (flat tipped) screw driver in between the clamp ends and give it a twist to "spread" the clamp and release the "pinch" it has on the cross shaft. BUT...it's TOUGH to get that shaft to come out! I find that it's not always the clamp that is holding it but it is really TIGHT where it slides through the case.

But BE CAREFUL! If you start hammering too hard on the shaft to get it out, you COULD crack a big ol hunk out of the case right there. THAT would be DISASTER!

Instead of a BIGGER hammer, what worked for me was Vise Grips on the outside of the case...twisting and pulling and TAPPING on the end of the shaft from inside the case at the same time. It's a tedious little job but it WILL come out. But I can't emphasize enough just how BRITTLE and DELICATE these old cast aluminum cases are. Always keep that in mind when you are holding a hammer anywhere near one!

Good luck

@jgmo

Thank you for your wise reply. I have both 'clamping' bolts completely out and will use a screwdriver as you suggested. I wanted to make sure that there wasn't something else to remove to release that lever shaft. I appreciate the assurance that it will come out and that my difficulty with the task is not unusual.

Your warning about cracking that casting is excellent advice and I shall use Vice Grips with caution on the tapping, hopefully lots of twisting will help loosen the case's'grip on it. Perhaps use of a heat gun on the case as well, doesn't aluminum expand under heat more than steel?

It's mounted to the port side of a Yamaha 90 on a GW Spirit 175 and I've had it for eighteen years and the boat for twenty. Just love that little engine and would hate to crack its shell.
Art

Well, heat MIGHT help but aluminum CONDUCTS heat much more efficiently than steel so you have to keep that in mind. Also...even though it's been a while since I did one of these...so the old memory is "fuzzy"...there are TWO bushings...one on the VERY end and one on the shaft where it pivots in the case...see item #8 in the parts page below. That one that is in the case is what I remember having such a good grip on the shaft. IF you are going to do any heating....that's the spot to do it. But...again....be careful with that especially if you like the paint job you have.

Having the big YAMMY on the STBD side of the Honda may make your task a bit more challenging due to room constraints. But...if you stick with the plan....pull,twist,tap....it should start to move and then come on out.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/0/BF100E SA/SHIFT SHAFT/parts.html

Yeah! Don't crack it's little "shell"! They are available but are 1100 coconuts!

Good luck.

I did not buy the two bushings (marked "8" for $3.01 ea.) just the shaft and had thought it would be the centered support that was the 'tight' spot. Got all the tools ready and will steer the Yamy to starboard for maximum 'pull' room. I will insulate the shaft with some non oily rags as I heat and I have an old can of "Car Cool" aerosol to spray the shaft with.

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...a-90-hp-2-stroke-overheat&p=523587#post523587

I'll post back results from your excellent suggestions, thank you for for taking your time,
Art.

Ok...hope it comes out "sweet".

I'm off to drive 50 miles to pay $100 for a "partial" Honda. I can see in the pics that it has no gear case but, even if the carb and coil are gone too....it's a bargain for the things I can still strip it down for. And...if the other stuff is there...it's only a matter of time before I will run across the gear box on another "junker" and have a "runner" for someone like you to enjoy.
I LOVE those old girls!

Well, here's hoping your parts motor has a good CDI box, couldn't get those even ten years ago. Mine checked bad, but I was lucky to be able to replace the wiring from the CDI to the flywheel coil as they were pink/green paste for copper, so I didn't need to look for one. Carbs and coils were still available last I looked, but that CDI will make your day (check wires, especially at flywheel end and any breaks in insulation).
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Success !!! Not real easy, but Vice Grips was the key, no hammering done.

The heat seemed to really help ease it a little.

New one slipped in slightly easier, no heat needed and it shifts easily now.


Photo shows old shaft in Vice Grip. Spring Photos relate to a non-shift related question:



Noticed this spring (or piece of a spring) wrapped around the Throttle Arm Shaft and the third photo shows the end (Broken?) held by a hemostat. Shift shaft was still out for those photos.

Service Manual does not show this spring and things seem to work fine, was it part of some sort of Throttle Return helper?
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Now I've got a new Fuel Connector (cost more than Shift Shaft) to install, torn between installing it on boat's fuel line or a six gallon for testing.

For years Honda has suffered that "Run fine for a while and quits". I have installed a New exhaust pipe and packed lots of Corrosion Block Grease with a paper shop towel down around shifter shaft into lower unit, tempted to pack exhaust grommet with muffler paste. I have probably exacerbated the 'choking on its own emissions' issue by lining inside of motor cover with foam and creating a perfect 3M 5200/5200 seal gasket onto motor cover and lower case.

Noticed I could keep it from quitting by an occasional squeeze of the primer bulb, so replaced the Fuel Pump (old one w/new diaphragm seemed fine) installed new clear gas lines and noticed bubbles appearing before quitting, and of course this is quitting with cover off.

I have a large assortment of the Evinrude connectors (they sell you for these Honda's) that either dribble when not connected or when they are, so thinking that's likely the source of the bubbles. Also bought the $0.98 'O' Ring, if I can just find the original Honda Metal Fuel Connector, I'll have two...

Best of Luck on your Honda goodies purchase
Art

Yippee! Another "on time-in time-under budget" DIY job in the books. Good JOB!

See item #4 in the parts page below and I believe that is your "mystery spring". You are correct....it is a throttle return spring. And, it IS listed on page 71 of my shop manual describing the "throttle arm".

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/0/BF100E SA/HANDLEBAR/parts.html

I'm not sure I understand your "motor cover seal solution". I guess anything that doesn't trap too much radiant heat from the engine under the cover would be ok but these engines don't really NEED any "re-engineering" since they work very nicely when put together as designed. The oil case drains NEED to be clear to allow any water that gets in around the powerhead to drain out into the extension case. If those are what you are sealing up....I wouldn't advise it.

The engine choking out on the exhaust gasses is almost always caused by the gasket for the exhaust pipe failing. See items #18 and 19 in the parts page below. I was thinking that's what you replaced though??

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/0/BF100E SA/OIL PUMP/parts.html

The bubbles are a problem and the connector is a likely culprit for sure. I find that the "latches" on the fuel connectors don't latch and cause all sorts of problems...from leaks to just plain having the fuel line popping off. I can usually fix them with some careful "hand machining". They're just not made very well to begin with. But bubbles (air intrusion) can come from anywhere on that hose assembly right back up to the tank.

What's with all that grease??? It seems to be gooped up on everything! Personally I would clean all that out so I can see that beautiful, original, Honda "battleship grey". That grease will only obscure leaks that may develop and attract dirt. It could also feed an engine fire if one were to break out for any reason.

My new (to me) B 100 was a GREAT find! All there EXCEPT the gear case. The reason it got kicked to the curb is that the swivel shaft broke off inside the tube of the swivel case. I bet it was a wild ride trying to steer back to the dock with an outboard in that condition!
I will have to wait and see if I can weld it. They are not available anymore so that may make this particular sweety pie a "donor motor" if, indeed, I can't. Any way you slice it though....I got a cod rockin deal!

"Hook one end on the Throttle Arm and other on the Cylinder" I have that spring in my shopping cart now! Thank You. Must give a more positive return to idle, mine revs up whenever tiller is raised.

The engine choking out on the exhaust gasses is almost always caused by the gasket for the exhaust pipe failing.

Click to expand...

Even more likely would be an unseen corrosion leak in the forward side of the exhaust pipe. I installed the "Improved" Full Water-Jacket version nearly ten years ago. My gasket had been fine.

The 'gasket' i was considering 'muffler paste' compond on was this one:
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/honda/H-18221-881-000.html

The one I had looked fine, so I did not replace it. But feeling guilty now for not spending the extra ten bucks since I was doing all that labor anyway. But I have no reason to know it's still not working fine.

Motor was over ten years old when I got her and the rubber gasket around the Cover to Lower Case was hardened and ineffective. I coated lower case edge with silicone compond (to prevent adhesion) at juncture and applied liberal (but masked) application of 3M 5200 all around the joint inside the cover (over existing rubber gasket), let it cure and had a new gasket, invisible and still effective and pliable today.

The (two-part) Foam Job was to further reduce noise, I did not restrict any drains of any kind and inserted a filtered intake over the existing 'Finger Pull' vent at top rear. But no doubt it does not get quite as much fresh air as when the cover was bouncing on the lower case.

I can hardly wait for practical electric auxiliary power from my dock to and from the ICW (only :20 minutes round-trip) and I'll get another sailboat, probably a small multi-hull this next time. Had a King's Cruiser 28' sloop from 1976 to 2012. Had Sea-Tow dispose of it to put my Love's mind at ease as she passed from cancer.

We never thought a GW Spirit 175 would be so noisy (and wet), but it's a great fishing boat and handles the waves far better than my old favorite Aristocraft Nineteen (it was quieter, dryer and more comfortable) and with an automotive type engine, was more familiar for me.
Art

What's with all that grease??? It seems to be gooped up on everything! Personally I would clean all that out so I can see that beautiful, original, Honda "battleship grey". That grease will only obscure leaks that may develop and attract dirt. It could also feed an engine fire if one were to break out for any reason.


My new (to me) B 100 was a GREAT find! All there EXCEPT the gear case. The reason it got kicked to the curb is that the swivel shaft broke off inside the tube of the swivel case. I bet it was a wild ride trying to steer back to the dock with an outboard in that condition!
I will have to wait and see if I can weld it. They are not available anymore so that may make this particular sweety pie a "donor motor" if, indeed, I can't. Any way you slice it though....I got a cod rockin deal!

Click to expand...

I did use this opportunity to push most of that extra grease down where I wanted it (which is inside the shift shaft's path to the lower unit), after I took the photos and before I installed the new shift lever.

In SW Florida corrosion can be a major issue, so I am liberal with Corrosion Block to keep it under control as best I can.

No doubt you got a Great Deal today, whether you can weld it or not. I can't even visualize what "swivel shaft broke off inside the tube of the swivel case." even refers to.

There are now so many parts that are "Obsolete or Unavailable" for these great motors today. The longer you can keep all those un-available parts the richer you will be!

Thank you again for all your advice, education and help, you no doubt saved me from a destroyed (from hammer) case.
Art

Yes...that new spring should settle the throttle down and have you more in control of things when raising the tiller.

As far as all your other explanations......gotchya! I now understand what you were doing and that all makes good sense to me.

Living in SoCal leaves me a bit "sheltered" and less experienced when it comes to weather and corrosion. In other words....I've got it comparitively easy!