Logo

BF20D charging system control switching

put a high power diode in series with the charging line for that battery?....that will give you over a volt drop.... have the load line and the charging line two different lines...keep it as simple as you can..

the manufacturer of these batteries probably has fielded this question before.. it may well be that you are chasing a phantom problem that don't exist...the real specs on the product has to have some room for variance..
 
Thanks for your input. Can you articulate on the diode idea?
The problem does exist. You just can't give the battery 15V charging. This is not lead battery and they all require BMS (battery management system) to shut down on cell low voltage or high voltage.
It seems that on this forum people are not familiar with LiFePo4 batteries. I guess this type of battery is never used in outboard installations.
Maybe I should have started the thread by asking what happen to the alternator if I open the charging output. So far it is still unknown and so is the way the voltage regulator work.

put a high power diode in series with the charging line for that battery?....that will give you over a volt drop.... have the load line and the charging line two different lines...keep it as simple as you can..

the manufacturer of these batteries probably has fielded this question before.. it may well be that you are chasing a phantom problem that don't exist...the real specs on the product has to have some room for variance..
 
I have not seen these batteries used in the small boats that I see. Just my opinion, but the 25ft and under boats that I see are manufactured and sold to dealers without batteries. The inboard/outboards have alternators (like in a car) and the outboards have either the magneto that charging that the 20 HP Honda has or the larger motors have the car like alternators.

The dealers provide the batteries. In most of the cases that I have seen, most dealers want to minimize their cost and maximize their profits, so they put in a no name basic lead acid battery. If the customer has to change it in a couple of years, then the dealer has an opportunity to sell another battery.

From what I have read at other sites since you posted this, this LiFePo4 battery system is lighter, longer lasting, has better discharge characteristics, and recharges much faster. The drawbacks that I see are that it needs a battery management system to limit overcharge, overheating, and assure even cell charging....and it is more expensive.

Most everyday pleasure boaters do not seem to want to worry about this type of improved technology yet....they are familiar with the car like battery.

Just my opinion.

I am seeing more of this with electric boats and the torqueedo electric outboards. I am surprised that the serious fisherman have not gotten more into these with their trolling motors.' They make a lot a sense for someone that spends a lot of time or go long distances on the water

Back to the last suggestion about the diode in the charge line.....nice idea, but if you put it in the white charge line (the one with the 20 amp fuse in it),, it would probably do as suggested for charging.....however, current needs to flow both ways on that lead. That lead draws current from the battery to supply the voltage to the key switch (for starting and gauge power...then it feeds current to the battery when the motor is running and charging.

Unfortunately, the regulator/rectifier on the 20 HP is just a black box that works. Since we are dealing with a ton of unknowns about it, it might be worth a call the Honda Consumer Relations and see if they can hook you up with someone at Honda, that is more knowledgeable of the inputs and outputs of the unit. I doubt that they will give you design help, but maybe they can give you more information on its strengths or weaknesses if you just cut it off and on as you would like to do. Either you are going to get a "you wanna do what?" or may get some good info. It may be worth a call. Their number is 770-497-6400.

Mike
 
NOPE... The zener suppression WON'T work on just one leg of the AC coil. It must be placed in parallel with the two lines out of the coil. In the diagram you provided it would be placed BETWEEN the two green wires going to the voltage regulator. You can use the relay to open just one line...to break the circuit...but the spike would not be suppressed with the diode across just the points of the relay.

Also, to test the output of the coil, You have two choices. You can set your meter on AC volts and put the probes on both green wires leaving the rectifier connected, The use of "backprobes" in each connector socket would be required. A couple of straight pins will work for doing this if you are careful. The meter is in parallel to the circuit and the regulator will never know it's there.

The other method would be to simply unplug BOTH green wire connectors and connect the meter directly to the coil by putting a probe on the end of each line....again...the regulator is not involved. Just be aware you may be dealing with over 100vac and less than one amp at that voltage can be fatal to humans. This testing would require the use of a quality digital multimeter of course.


But when it comes right down to it... I agree with kimcrwbr1....and I believe Mike said the same at one point....running both charging systems to ONE battery doesn't sound like anything I would want to try. Especially with a $1600 battery at stake.

But good luck.
 
Last edited:
http://www.powerstream.com/LLLF.htm

google this and the
article should be top of the list...

A LiFePO4 battery has a much wider overcharge tolerance of about 0.7V from its charging voltage plateau of 3.5V per cell. When measured with a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) the exothermic heat of the chemical reaction with electrolyte after overcharge is only 90 Joules/gram for LiFePO4 versus 1600 J/g for LiCoO2 . The greater the exothermic heat, the more vigorous the fire or explosion that can happen when the battery is abused.
A LiFePO4 battery can be safely overcharged to 4.2 volts per cell
 
you are right about the diode idea Hondadude....Thanks ....use of a diode would require switch and relay which i have tried to avoid..i am a firm believer in keeping battery and ignition wiring a simple as possible and isolated from house wiring....

the tolerance on this battery is wider than described...it can go up to 16.8 vdc charging and be safe...if i was olliric i would still touch base with the manufacturer to verify it...just my opinion...
 
Back
Top