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Old Volvo B20 130C with 270 attached

N

normanr38

New member
Hi All
Just signed up with the forum, I have just bought a Pilgrim/Princess 25 with a Volvo 130C with a 270 leg I noticed when I was looking at thr forum earlier there was quite a lot of advice on this old engine but not very much just recently.

Is the forum still fairly active with this old beast.

I am from the UK and bought this old girl for a winter project to stop me vegetating in me old age LOL.

Thanks
Guys
Norman
 
Hi Rick
Boat is running well apart from sometimes it does not want to run on tick-over just gradually dies on me suspect a fuel problem has 2 Solex 44PAI carbs not had time to look at it yet.

Did a compression check bearing in mind as you say it is an old push rod engine should be 170 to 200 I am getting cylinder 1-2-4 170or just over and on 3 I am getting 150.

Did wet test with no difference in readings so suspect valve problem as I said engine is running well for an old un pulls well and starts first time and runs smooth so not too concerned about cylinder 3 being a bit lower on compression to be expected on an engine of this age, it is a 1974 so one of the last Pilgrims because I think they changed to the Princess in 1975.

Thanks for the reply Rick but just interested to know if many members were still running these old engines, it is an old boat but been well looked after and I like to see these old boats being looked after and still plodding along.

Work done just before I bought it was 270 leg completely reconditioned,re-upholstered all the way through, High Drive Excellence hydraulic steering,plus a brand new colarifier, and engine compartment fan so as you can see guy spent a few dollars on her.

Norman
 
I had one of those engines for 30 years. Make sure you use a fuel stabilizer for layups. You can still get overhaul parts. Probably not from Volvo but an engine rebuilder. I think I would run it as it is. That's pretty good compression for a 41 year old engine. Only trouble I had was old fuel.
 
Thanks for the information,as you say engine not too bad so will leave well alone unless I get problems I intend to do the carbs in the spring and as you say I will use fuel stabilizer for the winter layup
 
Welcome to the forum! I have an AQ130C in my boat, which has been in my family since 1972 when my dad bought it brand new. The engine I have now was a Volvo factory rebuild when I bought it about about 12 years ago. It's still runs great and is a very good engine. I also have the original 270 outdrive on my boat and it's still going strong-- another workhorse as long as it's maintained properly.
 
Hi
I can't believe how well this engine pulls the boat along because it is a heavy old boat really comes up in the front when I open it up.

My boat is in the water all the time in a secure marina and I have been told the bellows need to be changed every 2 years does that sound about right to you, it is used on canals and rivers only so never in salt water.
 
....................
normanr38 said:
Hi
I can't believe how well this engine pulls the boat along because it is a heavy old boat really comes up in the front when I open it up.
Norman, if she runs strong, that's great! Keep her going!

My boat is in the water all the time in a secure marina and I have been told the bellows need to be changed every 2 years does that sound about right to you, it is used on canals and rivers only so never in salt water.
If you keep the drive full in (down) and aimed straight forward, your drive shaft bellows will go for several years between replacements.
It's generally when left up and aimed to one side, that the stress takes it's tole on them much sooner.

I'd be more concerned, and would suggest that the next time that the transmission is removed for drive shaft bellows replacement, that you pull the PDS and replace the single bearing.
Click to expand...
 
My leg was completely re-conditioned in November 2014 at a price of 3416.52 US Dollars so should be OK as long as I keep an eye on the bellows for leaks
 
Hi all
I am getting problems when cold starting what is the correct procedure for starting these from cold bearing in mind no choke.

I have a manual which says 3 pumps of the throttle but engine won't start due to flooding, I remove the plugs and clean them and when I put them back it fires and starts first time and I can turn engine off 3 or 4 times and it starts straight away with no problems.

seems strange I know all engines can have strange problems on start-up especially these old ones.

Carbs have been reconditioned with the kits and I have got them set correctly, anyone else had this problem once I have cleaned the plugs it runs all day perfect no missing a beat with plenty of acceleration etc and when I stop it starts first time every time
 
My AQ130C's fuel pump has a priming lever on it. If yours also has one, you might try just activating it a few times instead of pumping the throttle.
 
Unfortunately mine does not have a priming lever, thanks for the reply I am thinking of a Weber conversion kit if I keep getting problems because I have heard these solex 44 PAI twins can be a pain in the neck
 
Last edited:
Not a dumb question at all that what these forums are all about and this one is excellent for good advice.

If I don't pump the throttle at all won't even fire if I try it twice it fires but won't keep going and if I give it a small amount of throttle it cuts out so points to fuel starvation don't you agree,I think I have to play about with it and find the best way it is just a pain taking the plugs out all the time after trying to do a cold start
 
A "flooded" engine can often be restarted more easily with a mug of very hot coffee, i.e., turn ignition off, open throttle all the way and leave it, enjoy your coffee... restart engine. :)
 
Capt Bob
That's a brilliant reply I love a sense of humour I am going to the boat tomorrow and will give that a try LOL my mate has a boat and we always go to the marina together and he loves a cup of coffee as well.

I will let you know if it works if not I will try a cup of tea or a beer.
 
Another one here with a thumbs up for the electronic conversion. Keep in mind that it doesn't really fix a problem. You still need to make sure other items, like timing, plug wires, and fuel system, are in proper order.

As far as the periodic lack of power to the starter, it's most likely a corroded or loose wire. It's a frustrating experience, but can only be resolved by cleaning every connection, including the grounds.
 
Re: periodic lack of power to the starter...

Several seasons ago, started to have odd problems with starting when battery switch was set to the "house" ( dual purpose0 battery. Eventually tracked it down to a problem with the routing of the battery cable. The battery, on port, was in a plastic case and strapped down, yet the battery under rough conditions could shift about 1/2 inch. This shift would put a counterclockwise torque on the battery cable and slightly loosen the connection. I redressed the cable to have some slack and changed the wingnuts to regular S/S nuts with separate lock washers (NOT NYLOKS!).
 
normanr38 said:
My leg was completely re-conditioned in November 2014 at a price of 3416.52 US Dollars so should be OK as long as I keep an eye on the bellows for leaks
Click to expand...

Norman, this is none of my business.... however, I can't help but comment!

$3,400 to over-haul an AQ series 2.15:1 ratio 270 drive???????
I'll suggest that you no longer use this shop! :mad:

1.... if the drive oil has been kept clean, the AQ 130 does not have enough power to damage a 270 drive.

2.... if transmission gears/bearings must be replaced, we look for a good used transmission.
Re-seal it, do the re-shimming, done!

3.... the 2.15:1 ratio lower units typically do not go bad/break, and therefor do not fetch much in the used market. $150 to $200 tops.
Re-seal it, do the re-shimming, done!

4.... AQ 130 PDS is single bearing. About $35 in parts, and about 1 hour in labor while the transmission is removed.



Here are a few examples of what can be found in the used market:

270.... $300 plus shipping (seller says 2.15:1 ratio)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Penta-270-4-Cylinder-Outdrive-Complete-/141663557048?hash=item20fbce55b8:g:~u4AAOSwrklVLtM1&vxp=mtr

280.... $450 plus shipping (no mention of ratio)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Penta-Outdrive-280-Complete-Authentic-OEM-Lower-Intermediate-Upper-/221932065520?hash=item33ac2e92f0:g:pvIAAOSwT5tWOkiP&vxp=mtr



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