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Used '04 225 twin Hondas. Please chime in before I send the check.

Skooter is correct. Actually, the recommendation from Honda on the 2002 - 2005 225's is to replace just the O2 Sensor.

Mike
 
no need to replace ECU if you replacing same type of O2 sensor. But BF 225-200 got two type of sensor and the ECU also that replace under recall,supply from honda japan. but nothing changed sensor if fail same as before so if the sensor fails just replace with same one and Reset the ECU.

If you can find the ECU part number i can tell which sensor fit with it.


wajira
 
Update.......the seller called to let me know that one of the cylinders was 150psi. This was one of the last cyl they got the plugs out of. He assumed I would back out of the deal. He's being straight up, it seems. He didn't have to tell me.

I told him this wasn't necessarily a deal-killer, because the problem will likely go away with a good tank of Ring Free run through it. This is what 2 veteran mechanic friends of mine said: that the low psi is probably related to valves that need adjusting, or rings that are carboned up because the motors have been running rich.

I told the seller that I would go through with the sale if he got a scope inside and confirmed the cylinder walls weren't scored.

Does this sound reasonable?
 
Well...that's a sort of an open ended question. It all depends of what YOUR definition of scored is compared to HIS definition of scored. Used engines...especially one's with stuck rings.... will invariably have some "scuffing".

The scope I own has a camera feature that I can take digital snapshots with. Maybe for the sanity of all concerned you might ask him to send you a picture. Another way to go is to do a cylinder leakdown test to pinpoint WHERE the compression loss is occurring. With an outboard this is a little less precise in that there is no closed cooling system to help identify pressure leaks at the head to block interface. But this is still a valuable check for valve seating and ring to cylinder seal.

He sounds like a SAINT for working with you the way he is.

Good luck.
 
They shipped today from Florida. Buying used motors long-distance isn't for the faint of heart. All I'm hoping for is "nothing major". Fingers crossed.

I've beefed up the transom/bracket with extra gussets for the additional weight of the Hondas. It will be another 270lbs back there. The boat is a Stamas Liberty 288 with the factory fiberglas bracket (makes it easy to add the gusset supports underneath).

This is a previous picture of the boat with the old Ocean Pros. I've spent the last 2 weeks compounding and waxing to bring it back to life. In 25 years it was probably never compounded, and only rarely waxed. But now.....it's amazing what a Makita and 3M Brown can do. Finish with Imperial and Starbrite PTEF and now it's shiny. Three times over the whole boat with that buffer has worn me out!

As time permits, next week I'll hang them and start going through all the standard replacement stuff.
 

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Compared to those old Ocean Pro's, you'll likely find that your fuel consumption will be cut in half. Good luck on this.
 
That hull probably won't even notice the extra 270lbs. That baby looks SOLID! Hoping you have a pleasant experience with your "new" Honda's and waiting for the sea trial pics!
 
Update......hi guys. Motors arrived yesterday and look nearly new. I was told the repaint was done by a professional and he put clear over them. Nice touch.

Here's my question. One of the first things I'll do is replace the impellers. While I've got the LU's off I want to inspect the mid-shaft bearings. I don't want to replace them if they don't need it (these are 25"). What do I look for to determine if they are still good, or going bad?

Or is the process of getting a look at them so invasive that it only makes sense to replace while in there?
 
As it may help current and future Honda owners, I'm keeping this thread alive with updates.

I'm just waiting on new control cables before finally starting these motors. I've gone through the minor stuff: thermostats are good with minimal corrosion, changed oil, checked plugs, changed lower unit oil, changed shaft bushings.

An interesting thing. The seller had said the plug tips were dry carbon-ish, indicating burning rich. I pulled all the plugs yesterday and they are dry, light brownish.....the way they're suppose to be. I don't know what he was talking about. So......there's always that "grain of salt" to remember. The plugs are the correct NKG, the tips are good, and the gaps are correct. I put them back in with Hi-temp Mystic 6 grease. But, I dropped one coil. I don't know how delicate they are.

FWIW......I had a few difficult bolts here and there. I tried PB Blaster for the first time and was shocked at how well it worked. I'm sold.

I should be starting these within 7 days. A friend is a Master Yami mechanic. He has a "scanner" (that's the term he used) to read the codes. He offered to hook up and see what's what.

'Til next post......
 
Not sure a Yami scanner will work on the Honda. Does anyone know for sure? If not, shunt the service connector and check for codes on your MIL light.
 
Howdy.....finally, started the motors today and first time in the water. No real surprises, except one motor didn't pee well and a couple gauges aren't working. As you can see by the pic, the additional weight of the Honda's made the Stamas stern-heavy. I'll see what I can do to shift weight forward.

I have two issues: why no pee, and my motors might be set too high.

I would swear I put both impellers in the correct way, but one pees and one only partially. It really acts like the impeller is in backwards. Could this have to do with counter-rotation? I know other brands achieve CR down in the LU, so the impellers should be the same direction. But does Honda actually change the direction of the drive shaft. If they do, then that is why the impeller is in backwards.

Does someone know?

The other is.....even being stern-heavy, I've got about 8" above the waterline for my exhaust ports. With weight shift, I might be looking at 10" above WL. I may have to lower the motors. Not looking forward to that.

With a refitting like this there are always issues with the initial startup, so I'm not disappointed. I would have been if they didn't run, but they did. Although one has a miss at idle.

After all the time I've put into putting this boat back together, it sure feels good to see it float. Now, if I can just find the time to finish this last punch sheet.
 

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Looking good!

As for the weak telltale, it is likely partially blocked, which is a typical problem. I'm fairly sure that the impeller goes in the same way regardless of rotation. However, I don't have my shop manual with me, so one of you folks with dual engines need to pipe in.

Get a piece of string cleaner mono, or 400 lb. mono and work it all the way into the telltale and see if you can jog any blockage loose.

As for correct height of motors. The anti-cavitation plate should be even with the lowest point on the transom. I see that you have a extender, so for each 12" of offset from the transom, raise the anti-cavitation plate 1" above the lowest point. BUT, make sure that your exhaust ports remain at least 5.9" above the waterline. If you need to change the mounting of the motors, you might want to look into installing a pair of jack plates.
 
Ditto to what CHawk said on the telltale.

The impellers, definitely, go in the same way on both engines. The counter rotation is done in the lower unit. Both vertical shafts rotate clockwise.

Mike
 
chawk_man said:
Looking good!

As for correct height of motors. The anti-cavitation plate should be even with the lowest point on the transom. I see that you have a extender, so for each 12" of offset from the transom, raise the anti-cavitation plate 1" above the lowest point. BUT, make sure that your exhaust ports remain at least 5.9" above the waterline. If you need to change the mounting of the motors, you might want to look into installing a pair of jack plates.
Click to expand...

Hello Hawk......I should be fine, after recalling how I determined what holes to use. I did exactly what you said. My bracket is 30" away from the transom, so I added 2.5". I ran a straight edge off the hull and then up 2.5" from there. That is where my anti-cav plates are. So, they would seem to be correct.

The surprise was that I had 8" of clearance for the exhaust ports above WL, even though stern-heavy.

I don't really have any options for moving weight forward, since there isn't any place else to move the batteries. About all I can do is put a heavier anchor and extra chain up front. There is also a hold under the v-berth where I could put a 50lb bag of sand. But I don't like this option because it just adds more weight to the boat.

The alternative is adding glassed-in foam to the bracket. It's not a difficult job, but I just don't have time right now. And I want to use the damn boat!!
 
I think 50 lbs. or even 100 lbs. or more of weight in the bow is not going to effect performance with dual 225's. What will greatly impact performance will be how easily you can get on plane and stay there at the lowest possible rpm. My old 6000 lb. C-Hawk (modified hull) with a single 225 won't plane under 4000 rpm unless the fuel tank is near empty.

Do you have trim tabs installed on that boat? If not, you should consider them. I've had very good luck with the Lenco electric trim tabs.
 
Here's an update that might be of some help to someone.

I've decided to install somewhere between 5 and 7 cu ft of foam under the motor bracket to raise the stern. After thinking it through, it won't be a difficult job, and it will fit in right under the bracket without affecting water flow across the props. My own version of an Armstrong.

I'll pour the foam into containers that are roughly the size I need, and then trim them out to fit.

It was a surprise to see what those Hondas did to the trim of the Stamas.
 
Yep - each motor weighs 635 - 650 lbs. Sounds like a good idea with the foam. Are you going to coat the exterior? If so, with what?
 
chawk_man said:
Yep - each motor weighs 635 - 650 lbs. Sounds like a good idea with the foam. Are you going to coat the exterior? If so, with what?
Click to expand...

Hawk.....I had 2 options. I could go with 2lb foam (60lbs buoyancy) or 8lb foam (54lbs).

If using 2lb, I would have to put a couple layers of kevlar/epoxy on it because it's soft. 8lb foam is as hard as a softwood like pine.....you can put a fingernail in it, but not your knuckles. With the 8lb I feel like I can just put a couple coats of epoxy resin on the outside and be good.

I'll try that first and see the result. Maybe I'll have to put 1 layer of glass on it afterall.

Seven cu ft of 8lb will give 378lbs of flotation. According to US Composites, this accounts for the weight of the foam itself (56lbs). The Hondas are approx 300lbs heavier than the original 2 stokes. I'll temporarily attached the foam, set the boat in the water, and see how it sits. I may have to shave some off.

Then again, I want to allow for people, gear, and extra fuel on board.
 
Sounds like a good plan. I doubt if you will need to shave any off. Hopefully your fuel tank is amidship or further forward. I think a lot of folks will be very interested in the outcome.

Necessity is the mother of invention.
 
Skooter said:
Does the bracket not have a tub?
Click to expand...

Skooter.....the Stamas brackets aren't like an Armstrong, which I believe mostly have air chambers. They are just platforms without flotation. The foam will be secured underneath and exposed. That's the reason I want the hardness of the 8lb.

The other option was to actually glass in compartments underneath and fill them from above. I don't want to get into that. These blocks of hard foam will bolt in nicely from below, but won't be so low that they are subject to pounding from water or debris. This way, the blocks are removable, should it be necessary.

I will shave them to the shape of the transom and bracket, make them fit tight, and then through-bolt to the bracket. The hardness of the 8lb makes thru-bolting possible, whereas 2lb isn't dense enough to take the compression.

I'll take pics when I have time to do the job.
 
Is the bracket aluminum or fiberglass? I have an armstrong bracket with 2-200s on it. I will be happy to give you dimensions of you need them.
 
The bracket is Stamas in-house, proprietary, made of fiberglass. It's just a platform. Nothing but support gussets underneath.

Those were the old Ocean Pros that were on it before I bought the hull only.
 

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