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Winterizing

It depends on what type of cooling system you have. If it's a pure raw water cooling system where raw water cools the entire engine, yes, it's a good idea to remove the t-stat before flushing.

If the engine cooling system uses a heat exchanger where the raw water is pumped in a heat exchanger then that raw water is pushed out through the manifolds and risers, there is no need to fool with the t-stat because the engine coolant, which also runs through the heat exchanger to be cooled should have permanent anti-freeze in it. This type of set up is just like an auto engine, except for having a radiator that is cooled by air flow, it has a heat exchanger cooled by raw water.
 
It depends on what type of cooling system you have. If it's a pure raw water cooling system where raw water cools the entire engine, yes, it's a good idea to remove the t-stat before flushing.

If the engine cooling system uses a heat exchanger where the raw water is pumped in a heat exchanger then that raw water is pushed out through the manifolds and risers, there is no need to fool with the t-stat because the engine coolant, which also runs through the heat exchanger to be cooled should have permanent anti-freeze in it. This type of set up is just like an auto engine, except for having a radiator that is cooled by air flow, it has a heat exchanger cooled by raw water.



Thanks for the information I have removed the thermostat
 
I have a 4.3 Volvo IO, Raw water cooling system. I have drained both manifolds, both blocks, removed hoses at lowest level, water pump I believe, is there any reason to fill these hoses and blocks and manifolds back up with RV antifreeze, ie the pink juice? I used to do this on an older IO but questioning why. As someone said air doesn’t freeze. Thanks.
 
I too have a Volvo I/O. Simply follow the manual that came with the motor. There are a couple of blue plastic thumb plugs on each side, remove them, everything drains. That’s All tha manual calls for.
However, I too remove the hoses at the lowest level to drain, though it’s not required. It doesn’t matter if some water is retained, as long as it has some room to expand when it freezes, it won’t break anything.
Maybe I’m old school, but I believe there is some value in putting antifreeze into the water pump, not for freeze protection, but to evacuate the air, & prevent rust. If you do that, be sure to get the “pink” that is labelled for metal applications. There are two formulas of pink, & one is only for plastic, it contains no rust inhibitors, & states such on the container.
 
Any chance you can help me find the right fuel water separator. The one on it has no numbers at all. All that’s written on it is “ Marine electric pump fuel filter and water separator” it measures 3 1/4” tall and 3” across. No brand no numbers at all. Thanks
Bob
 
if you have the existing filter, I'd say get the key measurements (gasket OD, ID and thread size) and look them up in the WIX catalog...once you find a viable part number, cross referencing is much easier...
 
Any chance you can help me find the right fuel water separator. The one on it has no numbers at all. All that’s written on it is “ Marine electric pump fuel filter and water separator” it measures 3 1/4” tall and 3” across. No brand no numbers at all. Thanks
Bob

Ayuh,.... Look it up with yer motor's info,.....

I believe the Volvo filter has a smaller thread, than the Merc version,....
 
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