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Brooklure 300 Restore

Dave1969

Member
I have started this new thread because the last one was getting lengthy plus my questions are starting to vary.

First up: The water pump looked pretty good to me, although I,m not positive what I should be looking for or at. I am attaching pics so let me know how it looks.

There was only one gasket in the water pump. It was between the lower unit and the water pump it'self. There was NO gasket between the topside of the water pump and the outside cover. The pics should explain what I mean. Should I make two gaskets and install or just the one an not put one where the was none??
 

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Thank you buddy. Yes it turns over a little easier. There was a lot of gunk in there. I cleaned it out good. Does the water pump look ok to you?
 
Yep she pops. I just really hope I did a good job on the carb. The gasket kit calls for a gasket on top of the float bowl ( where the needle valve comes through) Mine didn't have one so I didn't put one in. Should I make one and put it in?? My logic was that gas comes out around the needle valve anyway. May be a dumb conclusion. Let me know.
 
Yeah I got the tank as clean as I could. I had a bunch of small hex nuts so I put 10 in the tank with a little fuel and shook the daylights out of it then removed the nuts and rinsed with fresh fuel. I haven't messed with the points. A friend of mine grabbed the sparkplug wire and I gave a rip and it about put him on the floor, so I figured it was ok.
 
I took the lower unit apart when I first got the motor. It was a nightmare to get back together. Not a lot of parts just hard to assemble. There is a metal key about 3 or 4 inches long that is dovetailed. it fits an opposing dovetail in the shaft housing on the lower unit. two bolts go into this metal key and tighten thus holding everything together. The ONLY way I could get the key to stay in place to put it back together was to use some contact cement. Inside the column (where the lower unit meets the stem on the transom mount) There was two rubber bushings both are about an inch wide and fit over the shaft from the powerhead and go into the tube in the lower unit. The rubber bushings, for all intent and purposes, looked pretty good to me. I'm just wondering if the free play it has will adversely affect the water circulation or cause another problem?
 
When we took the head off (to free the piston) we put it back together with the old gasket. Should I take it back apart and make a new one or will the old one work ok? The old one didn't look bad but....
 
No not yet. I have to buy a feeler gauge and set those points.

I may have a problem, not sure. I hope you can give advice based on my description here.

I took the water pump out and cleaned it all up and vaselined it. Now that it's back together it turns a lot easier and smoother.

My possible problem is: now it doesn't seem to have very much compression. I can turn the flywheel by hand and I can feel when it starts and ends the compression stroke. It just doesn't have much resistance on the compression stroke. Do these little 3 hp motors have a lot or should it be easy to turn through the compression stroke? This is with the spark plug IN the motor.
 
Thanks again buddy. Well, today, the more I thought about it the more that head gasket troubled me. Sooo I put on my big boy pants and tore into it. The gasket was in pretty bad shape I thought.

I made a new gasket for it out of material I bought at our local parts house. I am attaching pics of old and new gaskets and the head it'self. Should I use RTV or permatex when I put this gasket on? If so what kind of RTV red, blue?? Also which side should I put it on. The head or the block?? I am also sending another short video clip to your e-mail. It is of the piston and rings. Let me know what you think.
 

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Thanks for all that info buddy. Next questions. You said I need to torque the bolts but 4 of them are screw heads and 2 are 7/16 nuts. How would I torque the screw head bolts? Do they make a torque screw driver?? Is there any other permatex besides aviation that will work? Our parts house has aviation but the only sell it in 16 0z cans for 13 bucks. I only need a thimble full.
 
Yeah, I've checked all the parts houses and wally world was where I looked first. O'Reily's has the aviation stuff, just in 16 oz quantities for 13 bucks. Is SILICONE what I am trying to avoid? If so will another type sealer that doesnt have silicone work?? Also how do you de-glaze rings and crosshatch cylinders??
 
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