BF50A Motor oil

I brought this oil for a oil change on my BF50A I now notice it says 'Inboard' on the bottle does this make it non useable in an outboard?

Argh the photo didn't work. It's Castrol inboard 4t 15w-40 to API, SG or API CF-4.

I'd say no, considering the owners manual says API standard (Fuel Efficient SG, SH) SAE 5W-30

Funny as my owners manual states 10w-30 sg,sh. My workshop manual states 5w-30 sg,sh. either way I have read up on it & the 5w or be it 10w is for cold viscosity and the 30 is running temp.
Before I continue I should state that I live in Denmark where it can get cold but only use my boat during the summer months ie. water temp of between 14 & 25 deg c (57 to 77 deg F) I am having trouble finding either 5w or 10w oils with a sg or sh rating. I dont like the sound of these multipurpose oils Is there an ACEA equalivent to API? Who makes SG, SH 5w-30 oils, what do you guys use?

I think the current oil standard is SM or SN. They have superseded the SG or SH oils.
I use a 10W30 FC-W oil, or 10W40 SN. Almost any oil will work.

I was under the impression that it is only Sg or SH oils that may be used or I could risk damaging my motor.
Now I'm confused, although it would be so much easier to use a more modern oil.
I'm sure all the motor workshops don't have 10 different types of oil lying around for every different model of motor.
Alumarine: for how long have you been using these oils, seeing as you before stated that I should not use the one I have. I expect oil technology has only got better, but don't want to risk my motor through trying to save ten bucks

I have found Castrol magnetic 5W-30 A5 API-SN. It's a full synthetic. Can or should I use this??
Help please as my summer is done & I am hoping to winter preserve my motor this w-end with an oil & filter change & fogging before it goes undercover for the winter.
OH is there anything else I should do for winter preservation IE. disconnect the battery, drain carbs, drain fuel lines? Anything?? This is my first year with my precious boat.

I have brought the Castrol magnatech. I intend to change it tomorrow I may even attempt to change out my cam belt if the weather is on my side.

Hi Dean, the newer SL, SM, & SN automotive oils have been formulated with less ZDDP(Zinc/Phosphorus) in order to prevent damage to automotive exhaust catalytic convertors.
The ZDDP prevents metal to metal contact wear, so it's a good thing for your engine, but bad for your catalytic convertor if you have one.
Fortunately outboard motors don't have catalytic convertors.

Fortunately Valvoline make a VR1 Racing 10W30 SN oil with a ZDDP(Zinc/phosphorus)content of 0.14%, as opposed to typically 0.6 - 0.8% for a SN oil.
So that would be my choice.
It appears the 10W30 might be obsolete, maybe depending on your location ? but way down south here we can get the same in a 10W40.

http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/vr1-racing-oil

http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf

Bob

Cam belt & pulley changed, much easier than I thought.
Oil changed. Pretty messy changing the filter. I only got about 3 ltrs out and had to fill the same again (the manual says 4 ltr?). Bled the carbs & sprayed fogging oil into the cylinders.
Pretty pleased with myself.