Hello and good day to all.
By no means am I complaining, I got my boat running myself, with the help of this forum and PM faztbullet (thanks a mill). But this is odd...
Ok, 14 ft. aluminum V hull, (Avenger, by Spectrum) console, live well, trolling motor, 30hp mercury 2 stroke. The vessel without motor weighs approximately 500-700 lbs. outboard-165lbs. I purchased the boat new in 1998. When it was new or only a few years old, I used the boat for a day of wakeboarding/skiing. With myself and a friend in the boat (300 lbs. combined) while pulling another 175 lb. skier up and out of the water nicely. I was surprised with the strength of this 30 hp. I didn't think it had the power to pull a skier up out of the water from a dead start with another person in the boat as well.
I only used it for skiing this one time, I live on a small private lake (82 acres) so the motor has never been dogged or ran hard, it was blessed with an easy life. I'm not going to get into what went wrong with the motor because now it is irrelevant, but in its 17 year life it has not ran in the past 5-7 years, with the combination of it being a small lake, a fast trolling motor (55 lb. thrust) and the simple thing that was probably causing trouble all along with my attempts to fix it myself is why it was out of commission for those 7 yrs.
Now the boat is up and running again, almost like it never missed a beat. Compression test was good, 120 top-125 bottom, carb is CLEAN, It is not the carb! I will repeat.... NOT THE CARB! This 30 hp. model has what they call a TPM module, it advances and controls timing along with 4 other duties.... rev limiter, it actually turns ignition off automatically if rpms hit 6500 range and will turn ignition back on once rpms reach safe range, (wich would be seconds). Auto retards timing and rpms to 2500 if temp goes over 190 F. It activates warning horn for low oil situations, and at last I think it does something with the Idle until its warmed up. I may be wrong about that last one but anyways.....
you can not, nor is there a need to make adjustments to the timing, and no lync and sync is needed after carb removal. The TPM controls all! It advances timing for 300 rpm start to 600 rpm idle. Mercury used this TPM on two different models for only two years. Many experienced mechanics never heard of this module or new it what it did. IN short...this motor is rare.
I stated all the above to avoid unnecessary replies and advice for this situation, which now I will explain.... before this 7yr down time the top speed, which was measured with a hand held gps device was 28-30 mph. depending on water conditions of course. This included 300 lbs. of dude (me and my buddy), full live well, big cooler full of beer, trolling motor, full tank of gas -6 gallon, and two marine batteries.
As I said earlier, boat is running like new except top speed is only 20 mph!?! It is not the carb!!! its not the prop, it has been replaced with identical one, it does not have hydraulic trim, it is fixed with adjustable pin system which has not moved. It is not the throttle linkage, "butterfly" plate in carb is fully closed except for the idle needs and upon WOT plate is near level like it should be. No dents in bottom of hull to foil the hydrodynamics. It seems to run as it did before as far as the basics go, The only thing that seems may be different and I cannot be sure hence the 7 yr difference is that it seems a little slower out of the hole.
This 20 mph top speed is also with just myself in the boat, live well empty, empty boat for that matter, and 2 years ago I even replaced the thick 3/4 water logged marine plywood floor and front and back decks with new thinner lighter material. This dropped 75 lbs. from the original weight!
What could be the cause of this drastic change? In my opinion, if it was anything to do with everything I am claiming it is not, I surely believe there would be noticeable differences in the way it sounds and feels, I do not have a tach but I'm going to install one and I'm betting that it is only going to reach 4500 rpm range. I'm going on the way it sounds, it just sounds like it wont open up yet the throttle plate is near level as it should be at WOT. Logically it would almost have to be the carb but trust me it is clean, proper float height, and a new needle valve.
Rain down on me with your wisdom and ideas and all is greatly appreciated, just like the 20 mph that I am getting out of her!!!!
By no means am I complaining, I got my boat running myself, with the help of this forum and PM faztbullet (thanks a mill). But this is odd...
Ok, 14 ft. aluminum V hull, (Avenger, by Spectrum) console, live well, trolling motor, 30hp mercury 2 stroke. The vessel without motor weighs approximately 500-700 lbs. outboard-165lbs. I purchased the boat new in 1998. When it was new or only a few years old, I used the boat for a day of wakeboarding/skiing. With myself and a friend in the boat (300 lbs. combined) while pulling another 175 lb. skier up and out of the water nicely. I was surprised with the strength of this 30 hp. I didn't think it had the power to pull a skier up out of the water from a dead start with another person in the boat as well.
I only used it for skiing this one time, I live on a small private lake (82 acres) so the motor has never been dogged or ran hard, it was blessed with an easy life. I'm not going to get into what went wrong with the motor because now it is irrelevant, but in its 17 year life it has not ran in the past 5-7 years, with the combination of it being a small lake, a fast trolling motor (55 lb. thrust) and the simple thing that was probably causing trouble all along with my attempts to fix it myself is why it was out of commission for those 7 yrs.
Now the boat is up and running again, almost like it never missed a beat. Compression test was good, 120 top-125 bottom, carb is CLEAN, It is not the carb! I will repeat.... NOT THE CARB! This 30 hp. model has what they call a TPM module, it advances and controls timing along with 4 other duties.... rev limiter, it actually turns ignition off automatically if rpms hit 6500 range and will turn ignition back on once rpms reach safe range, (wich would be seconds). Auto retards timing and rpms to 2500 if temp goes over 190 F. It activates warning horn for low oil situations, and at last I think it does something with the Idle until its warmed up. I may be wrong about that last one but anyways.....
you can not, nor is there a need to make adjustments to the timing, and no lync and sync is needed after carb removal. The TPM controls all! It advances timing for 300 rpm start to 600 rpm idle. Mercury used this TPM on two different models for only two years. Many experienced mechanics never heard of this module or new it what it did. IN short...this motor is rare.
I stated all the above to avoid unnecessary replies and advice for this situation, which now I will explain.... before this 7yr down time the top speed, which was measured with a hand held gps device was 28-30 mph. depending on water conditions of course. This included 300 lbs. of dude (me and my buddy), full live well, big cooler full of beer, trolling motor, full tank of gas -6 gallon, and two marine batteries.
As I said earlier, boat is running like new except top speed is only 20 mph!?! It is not the carb!!! its not the prop, it has been replaced with identical one, it does not have hydraulic trim, it is fixed with adjustable pin system which has not moved. It is not the throttle linkage, "butterfly" plate in carb is fully closed except for the idle needs and upon WOT plate is near level like it should be. No dents in bottom of hull to foil the hydrodynamics. It seems to run as it did before as far as the basics go, The only thing that seems may be different and I cannot be sure hence the 7 yr difference is that it seems a little slower out of the hole.
This 20 mph top speed is also with just myself in the boat, live well empty, empty boat for that matter, and 2 years ago I even replaced the thick 3/4 water logged marine plywood floor and front and back decks with new thinner lighter material. This dropped 75 lbs. from the original weight!
What could be the cause of this drastic change? In my opinion, if it was anything to do with everything I am claiming it is not, I surely believe there would be noticeable differences in the way it sounds and feels, I do not have a tach but I'm going to install one and I'm betting that it is only going to reach 4500 rpm range. I'm going on the way it sounds, it just sounds like it wont open up yet the throttle plate is near level as it should be at WOT. Logically it would almost have to be the carb but trust me it is clean, proper float height, and a new needle valve.
Rain down on me with your wisdom and ideas and all is greatly appreciated, just like the 20 mph that I am getting out of her!!!!
