Logo

HELP Old Brooklure Carb Question

Dave1969

Member
Been working on this old Brooklure 300 (1950 model) trying to get it to run. Being mechanically De-clined as I am, I have talked around to a few fellas I know that are smarter than I am when it comes to stuff like this. The common take they all share is for me to keep my paws off the carb if I don't know what I'm doing because it's an evil nootmere to work on. Ironically, none have felt compelled to offer any info or tips. I'm sure the carb is dirtier than a perverts mind and prob has more varnish than the home depot. It has sat for years. My question is: Is this a big undertaking to take apart, clean and re-assemble. Any extra special tips or advice I should know? I have found no one in my area that is willing to mess with it including marine shops. I appreciate any input ya'll have and I guarantee I'll have a lot more questions as this project moves along. Thanks and God Bless. Dave
 
I have attached two pics. One is of the carb the other the side view of the motor.
 

Attachments

  • Carb on Brooklure 300.jpg
    Carb on Brooklure 300.jpg
    37 KB · Views: 187
  • Side View- Brooklure 300.jpg
    Side View- Brooklure 300.jpg
    60.7 KB · Views: 122
I have never tried to make gaskets before. I have watched it done and it doesn't seem to be beyond my ability. One big question here though, Should I use any permatex when replacing gaskets? Should I always replace gaskets even if the old ones look ok? Buddy, I will be very greatful if you can abide my ignorance and coach me through this project. God Bless.
 
Well, I spent the afternoon today disassembling, cleaning and re-assembling the carb. I could not for the life of me get the float needle valve out of the float itself. The float looks like it is made of cork with a metal clip looking piece on top around the shank of the valve. I pushed on it till it felt like something might break so I quit. I sprayed carb cleaner all around it and flushed it good. Took the screen out of the bottom of the float bowl and cleaned it good. I went to the local parts house and bought some gasket material and made gaskets for it where I had old ones. There was no gasket around the top of the float bowl so I didn't make one for it. Gas runs out around the valve stem anyway so it didn't seem necessary. I didn't replace any rubber O rings because I couldn't find the right size. The old ones didn't look too bad so hopefully they will be ok. The reed valve looked real good so I gave it a good careful cleaning and put it back.The needle valve on front of carb looked good too so same thing there. Let me know what you think of my method. My next project I wanna do is make sure the gas tank is good and clean inside. It's sat for years. I have had gas soaking in it for a few days. My idea is to take some hex nuts and drop them in the tank and shake the daylights out of it. Then I'll drain, remove the nuts and rinse the tank. Does this idea sound good?? The motor will fire! I sprayed a dab of ether in the sparkplug hole gave it a rip and it hit. I don't want to try gassing it up until i'm sure the tank is good and clean. BIG QUESTION. On the motor it says to mix a half pint (8 oz) of SAE 30 oil to 1 gallon of gas. I mixed some up like this and it seems like a light weight oil. Seems to heavy a mix to me. Could this be because in 1950 we actually got real gasoline? I don't want to foul the thing but I don't want to burn or lock it up either. What mix do you suggest?? Thank you for your time and patients I hope I don't wear them out before this is over. God Bless.
 
BIG QUESTION. On the motor it says to mix a half pint (8 oz) of SAE 30 oil to 1 gallon of gas. I mixed some up like this and it seems like a light weight oil. Seems to heavy a mix to me. Could this be because in 1950 we actually got real gasoline? I don't want to foul the thing but I don't want to burn or lock it up either. What mix do you suggest?? Thank you for your time and patients I hope I don't wear them out before this is over. God Bless.
 
Thank you buddy. Yeah I already pulled the flywheel. When I got the motor it was seized up. My son and a buddy helped get it free, It was just corroded from years of sitting. We cleaned it up good and put it back together. I can pull it again and take a pic. I have two more questions buddy. One is should the fly wheel turn with a fair amount of resistance with the spark plug out of the motor or should it spin fairly easy? This motor has a fair amount of resistance on it. I was kind of concerned that my son might have torqued the rod bolts too tight. There are no rod bearings or shims in it. Boy howdy does it have compression. Not overly so but I was very happy to see the rings in as good of shape as they were and the cylinders as slick and nice. When I pull the starter rope, the flywheel (with the spark plug IN) doesn't "run on". After it completes the last compression stroke (while being pulled) the flywheel stops. My second question is: Is this motor air or water cooled. It has a shroud or side covers that go around the motor that seems like it would keep air from cooling. I took the lower unit off and could find no water pump. The schematic doesn't show one either. BUT when we were working on freeing the piston, I took the cover off from around the spark plug hole. It has a channel that looks like it is for water circulation. The only thing in the lower unit is the drive rod from the power head to the prop gears. With this said, If it IS water cooled how does water get into the power head? Thanks again buddy for all you help. God Bless.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Buddy. So I guess an impeller just pushes water up the lower unit?? There is no water tube in my lower unit and the schematic for it doesn't show one. What keeps cooling water from being contaminated by all the exhaust carbon and oils and gunk? I took the piece off that you sent me ebay link to. The only thing there was just the propeller shaft and a gear that runs off of another gear on the drive rod coming from the power head. I'll Take it off again and look it over better, maybe I missed it some how. Am I looking for a rubber impeller? or is it a different pump system?

I took the flywheel off today and took a couple pics for ya. Maybe you have some good advice for me. Also when I pulled the flywheel a brass washer fell off. I know where it goes, I'm just not sure which WAY it goes. I also took a pic of it. Does the edges go down against the magneto with the center up against the flywheel (that's how I put it back) or the other way around???
 

Attachments

  • magneto 1.jpg
    magneto 1.jpg
    33.9 KB · Views: 108
  • magneto 2.jpg
    magneto 2.jpg
    39.3 KB · Views: 112
  • flywheel washer.jpg
    flywheel washer.jpg
    29.1 KB · Views: 105
Ok now I see how the water gets there. Yep That is what mine looks like buddy. Are these water pumps prone to go bad? anything I need to change? Sorry for being dumb about all of this. Carpentry and woodworking is my forte.

I changed the gear oil when I put the lower unit back on. When I removed the part you sent the link to above (prop shaft and cover?) At the time I didn't have any gasket material so I just put it back with the old gasket. Should I take it apart again and make a new gasket or will it be ok? The old one didn't look bad but I understand looks can be deceiving. Also on the subject of gaskets, When we took the head off to free the piston I didn't have gasket material. This gasket looked good too so my son put it back together. Should I pull all that again and make a new gasket for the head?

I suppose I will have to get it running in water to see if the pump is good or not right? Also, to be sure I did it right, to add gear oil you pump it in the bottom screw hole until it runs out the top one right? Thanks again buddy.
 
Back
Top