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Help! 90 evinrude charging problem

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Brian Marsh

New member
Good morning everyone! My engine won't charge. Replaced the rectifier, stator, batteries and still stays at 12.2 while running. I tested it right at the output wire on the rectifier and only 12v. I've done almost everything possible. My boat is a 97 aquasport with a 97 evinrude 90hp on it. Please help!!
 
i see you say multiple batteries...how many and how are they wired?...reduce that to one for trouble shooting purposes...hook up just one to the engine and have only the bilge pump in addition...have that battery fully charged and it should read in the 12.7 dc range...start the engine and run at 2k rpm...put your meter on ac and see what you got on the two wires coming from the stator....to get down to the nitty gritty later on you may need a dva adapter on the meter but not at this point...you just want to see if the stator is putting out 20 bolts ac or so.. if the stator is putting out then turn your meter to dc and see what you got on the output...get back to us please...

is this boat new to you?
 
So I'm finally out here now. Tach don't work bc the Guage is bad. It read -0 rpm. Stuck down the bottom. Anyways. I revved it up some and the reading was 15.7 ac volts and 0.14 DC volts. All this running on one battery. Yes this a new boat to me. I wanna use it before the winter!
 
oh sorry i see it.....mis-read it earlier.
your ac voltage reading...was that taken with the two yellows disconneced?
If you disconnect the yellows, and the voltage is still low, then the problem resides in the stator / flywheel combination .
Those two components comprise the alternator mechanism, and it is inconceivable to me that if the components are good, that it fails to output 20vAC or higher.
 
daselbee said:
oh sorry i see it.....mis-read it earlier.
your ac voltage reading...was that taken with the two yellows disconneced?
If you disconnect the yellows, and the voltage is still low, then the problem resides in the stator / flywheel combination .
Those two components comprise the alternator mechanism, and it is inconceivable to me that if the components are good, that it fails to output 20vAC or higher.
Click to expand...

I'm going to test that when I get home. Thanks!
 
Ok, stator outputs 25vac. Good.
Since I am not there, does this engine have a rectifier, or does it have a rectifier / regulator ?

It makes a difference. If rectifier, you MIGHT be successful trying to do an ohms test on it to determine a go/no go part. You might not truly be able to test due to your particular meter.

Your statement that it charges a little does not make sense. You will not really be able to say 1/2 a volt....does not compute.
Ok, good, stator and flywheel are good. For exact determination, you should see the same AC voltage both connected and disconnected. (Yellow pair).

If the a.c. voltage goes down when connected, it means the rectifier input circuit is loading the voltage down, and the rectifier is bad. I know you said you changed it.....but something is not making sense here.

Right now the stuff you posted points to a bad rectifier.
 
i assuming you are still on one battery and all additional load disconnected for testing purposes...if the voltage goes up at all measured at the battery posts when running the motor you are trying to charge...the more current that is being drawn the lower the voltage will be on a rectifier only system...the battery could be run down or defective..also compare the battery post reading with the output on the terminal block near the rectifier..you could have a voltage drop between the two..also check the grounding...both at the battery post and at the engine...

keep on mind that if over current is present its only a matter of time before the new rectifier will be shot....
 
you stated that you wanted to use the boat before winter..you can...this problem has nothing to do with the running of the engine...just isolate your starting battery by removing all load except the engine..if the engine is in good shape and starts normally and the battery is good and fully charged there are many many starts in the battery..
 
Would the OP please post the model number so that we can determine if he has a rectifier only, or if he has the water cooled regulator/rectifier.
 
daselbee said:
Would the OP please post the model number so that we can determine if he has a rectifier only, or if he has the water cooled regulator/rectifier.
Click to expand...

Ok here are the updates, so today I changed the rectifier again . It's not water cooled. It's the little silver one bolted to the block. Once I connect the stator wires to the power block with nothing else on, it drops down to 15 ac volts. I have a voltage draw obviously. At this point I have one battery connected and that's it.
 
I guess I would try disconnecting the rectifier's red wire from the starter solenoid (if connected there) and let it hang open. Run engine, get ac volts, and get DC voltage from the open red wire.
 
Do you have the red wire from the rectifier on the correct starter solenoid post?
If you have it on the starter solenoid post that the battery positive is connected to, it is right.

If, however, you have it on the other large post, the post that has a short large wire that goes to the starter, that is wrong.
That would create a huge load on the rectifier circuit when engine is running, all charging amperage would go thru the starter, eventually the rectifier would burn up.
I believe there would not be enough current supplied, though, to actually turn the starter.....so everything would look/seem correct.
 
So today I removed the rectifier wire off the top of the solenoid is were the positive wire from the battery is hooked too. The ac volts jumps back up at the rectifier and stator yellow wires to about 30 volts. As I put it back on I get a decent spark and the motor idle comes down and so does the volts. DC volts with the rectifier red wire off and tested it. it shows up with crazy voltage that jumps all around. Between 12 to like 17v. That's bc the rectifier doesn't see battery volts. I have been homing wires and checking every thing out. No luck yet! !
 
''As I put it back on I get a decent spark and the motor idle comes down and so does the volts.''

the charging side of the system should not affect the idle or running of the motor in any way..wiring error?
 
He's got a much larger load on the output of the rectifier than should be.

Either bad battery, batteries wired wrong at selector switch, or some load in the boat wiring.
I don't see any post where he took Papy's advice and set his system up with just one battery...I think in the first post that was suggested.
 
if the selector switch is still wired in then take it out of play...wire the big red wire from the engine directly to the battery..same with the black wire to the negative post...you say you have one battery in the circuit...keep it that way...then take readings..if the same then swap out the battery..take readings..and get back to us..

here are the readings we need...all wires in place and just the one battery...1..battery output as measured between battery post with the engine Not Started..2...start the engine..take dc reading between battery posts...3..ac reading between battery posts. ..4...dc reading between positive post of battery and engine ground on the block..5..ac reading on stator output between the two output wires...6..ac readings between each stator output wire and block ground...

a question....does the battery wires go through the big plug to the engine or are they separate?

i ask you not to deviate from the above procedure...we are in effect starting over on the problem... in order to help you we must be able to make a decision and draw a conclusion from every step....this is sometimes not easy on remote support..especially with out voice...
 
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