Trouble engaging F and R on AQ270 outdrive

Hi, I aquired a old Glastron with the AQ270 drive. I am having quite a time adjusting it so BOTH F and R fully engage. One thing I have noticed is the prop does not engage till the last quarter inch of travel of the control mechanism. Is this normal? Thank you for any help.

tahoe12 said:

Hi, I aquired a old Glastron with the AQ270 drive. I am having quite a time adjusting it so BOTH F and R fully engage. One thing I have noticed is the prop does not engage till the last quarter inch of travel of the control mechanism. Is this normal? Thank you for any help.

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Nnot normal, I th throttle cable working seems like the engine would be screaming.
Take th cor off the Aq270ad hve some on chcthe movement

Start at the transmission.
Disconnect the shift cable from the gear yoke.
Disconnect the vertical linkage from the gear yoke (leave clevis connected to eccentric piston).

Place the eccentric piston in the neutral position.

Make a full FWD shift..... (the cable will extend at the gear yoke)
Bring the cable barrel fitting around to the gear yoke and temporarily connect it.
Make sure that the gear yoke is pushed AFT but is not touching the intermediate housing.

Now make a full REV shift..... (the cable will retract at the gear yoke)
Again.... bring the cable barrel fitting around to the gear yoke and temporarily connect it.
Make sure that the gear yoke is pulled FWD but is not touching the intermediate housing.

If all is OK... connect the cable barrel fitting to the gear yoke..... SS washer in place.... and brass or SS cotter pin in place!

Now put the shift lever into Neutral.
Adjust the vertical linkage "clevis" so that the lower end fits nicely into the now neutral gear yoke.

Now repeat the FWD and REV shift unit engagement.
At the full end of travel, remove the vertical linkage piece, and check for any gear yoke over-travel (which you should see).
Make final clevis adjustments as to divide any over-travel equally.

But again.... make sure that the gear yoke does not contact the intermediate housing.

With the shift unit in absolute neutral, and the eccentric piston in absolute neutral, the vertical linkage piece should feel relaxed.

If single lever control, full gear selection should occur long before any throttle action.

Keep in mind that the cone clutch "sliding sleeve" must first undergo "gear cup" friction prior to complete lock-up.
(engine running, of course)


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Ricardo, thank you. 2 things number 1 what part is the gear yoke number 2 I noticed that on my left hand drive unit my linkage is on the left side of the concentric piston and not on right as the shop manual shows.

waldo40 said:

Ricardo, thank you. 2 things number
1 what part is the gear yoke number

2 I noticed that on my left hand drive unit my linkage is on the left side of the concentric piston and not on right as the shop manual shows.

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1...... The gear yoke is the hinged SS bracket that swings FWD and AFT.
The shift cable attaches to it, and it eventually moves the vertical linkage rod UP/DOWN.

A FWD shift always involves a shift cable extention at the gear yoke..... regardless of prop hand.
FWD shift.... cable extends.
REV shift..... cable retracts.

For a LH prop.... the vertical linkage arm will be on the Stbd side of the eccentric piston.
The eccentric piston will be rotated CW for FWD gear engagement.
(drives from lower driven gear)

For a RH prop.... the vertical linkage arm will be on the Port side of the eccentric piston.
The eccentric piston will be rotated CCW for FWD gear engagement.
(drives from upper driven gear)


2.... I may not be following you.
When you say "my left hand drive"....... are you taling about a drive that is spinning a LH prop.... or a Port side drive... such as with twin engines?


If your vertical linkage rod is connected to the Port side of the eccentric piston, yet you run a LH prop, then your shift cable is being operated in a reverse fashion.... which means that the coupling rod and lock brace are not able to work properly.
(see #1 above ...... A FWD shift always involves a shift cable extention at the gear yoke)


If twin engines..... your Stbd drive will turn a RH prop.... vertical linkage on Port side.
If twin engines..... your Port drive will turn a LH prop..... vertical linkage on Stbd side.






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Ricardo, I have a lefthand prop with CCW rotation. the verticle rod is on the portside of the concentric piston. How is this? Is it possible someone before me nstalled the concentric piston upsidedown? And with this has some effect on why I cant quite get shifter adjusted. thanks

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waldo40 said:

Ricardo, I have a lefthand prop with CCW rotation. the verticle rod is on the portside of the Eccentric piston. How is this?

With any AQ series drive, a shift into FWD gear is always a result of the shift cable extending at the gear yoke.
When the gear yoke is moved AFT, the vertical linkage is pulled downwards.
If the vertical linkage is connected to the Port side of the "Eccentric Piston", it moves the sliding sleeve upwards.
An upwards move of the sliding sleeve engages it with the upper driven gear "gear cup".
This results in a CCW prop shaft rotation for any single prop lower unit.


Is it possible someone before me nstalled the Eccentric piston upsidedown?

It is impossible to install the eccentric piston upside down (180 degress out of phase) and yet allow for complete installation.
If it was installed upside down:
a....... the shift shoe socket would be swung to the Port side of the sliding sleeve groove.
b....... the neutral detent pin would be swung to the Port side.
All of the geometry would be incorrect.

Eccentric piston showing shift shoe socket on Stbd side.
https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/...Y045Hy01dnuIncpL8lya02QDNLJFOa6hLsIkBQg5taUP1

Bottom line...... you'd not be able to install the shift mechanism if the eccentric piston was 180 out of phase.


And with this has some effect on why I cant quite get shifter adjusted.

First.... pull the shift mechanism and examine the shift shoe. Once in a while, we'll see these broken.
You'll need on new O-ring.
If up for the task, also replace the eccentric pison seal!
(NOTE: this seal is directional!)

Also, make dang sure that the shift cable clamp is tight.
SEQ # 32 here.

Now start with the shift cable disconnected from the gear yoke (SEQ #2 above) .
Place the eccentric piston in the neutral position.
Loosen the clevis locking nut. (SEQ #19)
Disconnect the vertical rod (SEQ #17) from the gear yoke.
Swing the gear yoke full in both directions, and learn where it touches the Intermediate housing.
Divide this travel so that you know where the gear yoke is in the middle of it's travel.
With the helm shift unit in neutral, reconnect the shift cable to the gear yoke.
Again... make sure that the gear yoke does not bottom out anywhere during a shift in either direction.

Play with the vertical linkage rod length (clevis adjustment), and adjust for absolute neutral of both the eccentric piston and the gear yoke.

Click to expand...

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waldo40 said:

Ricardo, I have a lefthand prop with CCW rotation. the verticle rod is on the portside of the concentric piston. How is this? Is it possible someone before me nstalled the concentric piston upsidedown? And with this has some effect on why I cant quite get shifter adjusted. thanks

Click to expand...

Apparently at some time in the past a "black drive expert" incorrectly setup the shift lever vs prop rotation setting by changing the "sense" of the shift cable at the control head instead of at the drive. Per Ricardo... shift cable should extend at drive end when shift lever up front goes into FWD. Start by fixing that, otherwise reverse interlock will never work correctly.

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sandkicker said:

Apparently at some time in the past a "black drive expert" incorrectly setup the shift lever vs prop rotation setting by changing the "sense" of the shift cable at the control head instead of at the drive.
Bob, those darn Black Drive eperts!!!!!
I wish that they'd keep their paws off of the AQ series drives!


Per Ricardo... shift cable should extend at drive end when shift lever up front goes into FWD. Start by fixing that, otherwise reverse interlock will never work correctly.
Bob...... good point.

FYI for you Black Drive Experts who turn a wrench on an early AQ:
If the cable direction has bee reversed, the coupling rod will be depressed (and the lock brace activated) while in FWD gear.... not while in REV.
If this drive was to encounter an impact, the latch hook over-centering springs will not release...... (well, at least not without tearing something up).

Click to expand...

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