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Shifting issues 5.7 SD

Glassy

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Hifolks. New to this forum and back in the pleasure craft scene after a 25 year break.
I just purchased a 1991 Glaston G2000 SS cuddy with a yamaha 5.7l outdrive. Like so many people that have these drives, I am having shifting issues. The previous owner just had the shift cable and bellows replaced. The boat will shift into drive out of the water but not in reverse. The PO claims he had it in the water all of june and the issues started at the end of that month, when he came back to his slip with only forward gear engaging. Now I have read a lot about this issue and even registered in the google group for yamaha SD. Some advocate doubling the gaskets at the stern while others say drilling the bushings one size larger will fix the problem. I imagine those are the bushings located in the upper drive below the shift shaft coupling!( #19 in the microfish). I am trying to gather as much info as I can before pulling and spliting the drive. I guess what Iam really asking is what do I start checking and adjusting before pulling the drive? And yes, I did buy the Clymer service manual.
Don
 

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Now I have read a lot about this issue and even registered in the google group for yamaha SD. Some advocate

Ayuh,.... I can't really help ya with the Yamaha, only seen a couple,...

But,.... In yer searchin', if ya find info posted by Capt. Ken, of florida, consider it the gospel truth 'bout these drives,....

If anybody anywhere knows these drives, it's Ken,...
 
In yer searchin', if ya find info posted by Capt. Ken, of florida, consider it the gospel truth 'bout these drives,....

Read every post he made on this forum. As far as drilling the bushings, can someone confirm that they are the #19 bushings above and explain why we drill them out?
Don
 
never had one apart so this is only speculation.....I'd imagine the thought is that there is some restriction due to the bushing's original ID and it causes excess friction inhibiting a clean shift.

If you do opt to ream out the bushing, make sure you don't damage the seal..
 
Well, spent a good part of the morning and most of this afternoon trying to adjust the shift cables. If I adjust them like it says in the Clymer manual, I can't shift forward or backward. The control is stuck solid. If I give it a little more length on the transom cable, forward and neutral is as smooth as silk. However, I can't reach the detente on reverse on the control. If I take the cable off and try to operate the remote control shift pivot, it will move approximately 1/2 inch and then it stops. I don't see the throttle move at all on reverse. I am wondering if the previous owner would have assembled something wrong when he changed out the bellows and cable seeing that he left out all cotter pins, clamps plus routed the cables wrong and unplugged the interrupt switch!! Well I guess it's time to take out the drive and take a look see.
Don
PS As a side note, the engine runs like a champ and starts at 1/4 turn.:)
 
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I spent about 1 hour removing the drive and getting ready to work on it. My wife is on vacation this week an I can only work on it when it is convenient with her.:) Shifting it manually works like a charm. I imagine it is the same problem so many Yamaha owners have had with these drives. So, the plan is to readjust all cables to spec, split the drive, ream out the bushings, reassemble and hope everything works out fine. Saga to continue.:rolleyes:
Don
 
has the cable been damaged due to overheating?
The transom cable looks new and the remote cable looks like an adapted mercruiser cable. The shift fork in the upper drive was crooked. The drive was put back on the transom assembly without a gasket in between. I don't know if that has anything to do with it but, I ordered new parts and am waiting on them. In the meantime, I reamed the bushings to give a bit more clearance on the shift fork.
Don
 
Here's an update. After putting in new fork and gasket, everything shifts fine on the trailer and out of the water. With the engine running on muffs, there is a grinding noise when I put it in gear. Idle seems normal to the ear as the tach I have on board looks out of whack. I can't figure out how the shift interrupt switch is suppose to work! If I measure resistance, it is always open. The arm actually has to touch the switch for it to cutout the engine or, measure any kind of resistance. Can someone explain how this is suppose to work and if there is any type of adjustment on it? I would like to try it in the water this week if I can get everything to work as it should.
Don
 
If its like the merc system, when you shift OUT of gear, the switch will activate, then engine dies (momentarily), the load on the gears (in the leg) is release, the gears disengage, the cable releases the switch and the engine keeps running in neutral.

the adjustment is done solely at the cable
 
I already adjusted the cable as specified in the Clymer manual. I guess this will not help the grinding while shifting in gear. I will get a tach and verify rpm. This switch does not seem to have any adjustment. Short of buying a new one, are there any electrical test I can make to check its condition or is it suppose to work only when the drive is under load in the water? :confused:
Don
 
when you shift into gear, do you use a quick, sharp motion or do you take you time?

if the switch closes and opens when you work the lever, it is good.
 
when you shift into gear, do you use a quick, sharp motion or do you take you time?

Yes I do take my time, shouldn't I? As far as the switch opening and closing, it just rides on the rollers from mid point. If I adjust it to contact, the engine dies.
Don
 
Don't drag out the shifting action; make is short and sweet. The switch won't actuate unless the cable is adjusted correctly, the engine is under load (in gear and in the water) and your are shifting into Neutral.
 
So I tried out the boat today. Was out on the water for a few hours. Was shifting O so sweet, at least till I came back to the dock. I ran the boat up on the ramp trying to put in in reverse. It just went forward. So glad there were no other boats in front of me. When I was on the water, I shifted it in and out many times to make sure everything worked fine. Only after cruising at a steady rpm for 1/2 hour and coming back to dock did it start acting up. I have a theory: While moving along, is it possible that the switch would somehow heat up and become open with the heat in the engine compartment and lose its ability to function. What do you think? I ordered a new switch a few minutes ago. Should have it by Tuesday.
Don
 
Anything is possible....but switches usually don't fail like that.....in my limited experience, anyway.

I'd be more inclined to think the adjustment on the cable is close but not quite right.
 
I'd be more inclined to think the adjustment on the cable is close but not quite right.
Well that might be but today, I spent the day on the water. I was unable to get it out of gear. If I shut down the engine, it would come back to neutral. Then, I could easily shift forward or backwards but, I had to kill the engine again to get it out of gear. Its OK when your moving in the water but a real pain to dock. I will know for sure after I get the switch tomorrow.
Don
 
make sure the switch's mounting mechanism if not bound up....you should be able to see the springs and figure out how it pivots....it only has to move enough to kill the ignition momentarily but needs to be free to do that.
 
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