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Restoring a 1989 24 Ft. Bayliner Trophy

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wknakamura1

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The engine in my Bayliner needs to be replaced. Most of the engine is stripped out and can't find a whole complete engine to replace it. Found this OMC 175 Ford 302 V8 from a 1975 model but he did not say what type of boat, but the manual calls for a 302 ford engine. Could anyone tell me if it would fit in my Bayliner Trophy? My boat came with a OMC outdrive Model #985689 (5.7/8L). The manual also states the original engine should be a 302 V8 (231-235) HP or C.I.? 5.0-5.7 if that helps. Would appreciate any help and infomation you can give. Mahalo Wayne
 
There is no reason why the 302 you found would not plop right in place of the old lump. Only thing you may have trouble finding are the original OMC log type exhaust manifolds. There are aftermarket reproduction ones available, but to my mind they aren't as good. You could also switch to a center riser type manifold. That will mean hunting up the elbows that connect the riser to the y pipe. Again, they make repro ones.
Otherwise the only thing that makes it OMC in particular is the thermostat housing.
Do you have things like the shift cable plate and the electrical/ignition parts?
 
Thanks I will be installing. I just purchased this engine which has 90 running hours logged on. The guy that sold me the engine suggested that I add a heat exchanger in order to extend the life of the engine. I know it will extend the engine life, what will it take to do that. Heat Exchanger and do I need any adapters to hook up to the engine fresh water side? How do I find the right size exchanger. Also there are a lot of fishermen here in Hawaii that run strait saltwater cooling. Is there a reason for that? $$$ Maybe?

  • :rolleyes:

 
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If you are in the warm ocean waters of Hawaii, then it only makes sense to fit this engine with a Closed Cooling system.
Once the salt water corrosion begins...... it's very tough to arrest it.

And yes to the Barr (or other) universal style center-rise exhaust system.
With additional elbows and rubber exhaust couplers........., you can make this work.


As o2batsea says, make sure that you have the shift cable bracket and ESA equipment for the Ford engine.
If not, you'll be modifying what you do have in order to fit the Ford engine.





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Thank you for your knowledge. Will try to get the close system done. Also is there a certain kit that I can purchase or do I have to piece it all together, and do you know what size will work for a 302 Ford small block? Like is there a thing on over cooling. Not good right? Mahalo (Thanks Again)
 
wknakamura1 said:
Thank you for your knowledge. Will try to get the close system done. Also is there a certain kit that I can purchase or do I have to piece it all together, and do you know what size will work for a 302 Ford small block? Like is there a thing on over cooling. Not good right? Mahalo (Thanks Again)
Click to expand...

Found kits on ebay, Thanks again
 
If the boat lives on a trailer you do not need closed cooling. You just need to flush with sweet water after a run in the briny.
 
[UOTE=kimcrwbr1;514343]Have you done a survey on structure? Motor mounts, transom, deck and stringers. With the engine out is the time to replace any and all dryrot. I have about six gallons of pour foam that could use a good home in the seattle area for cheap.[/QUOTE]
 
As for checking structure, everything looks good, no dry rot noticed and there are no black spots where water got in and rotted the wood. Mount foundations are solid. Had some termite problem in the cabin area, but took care of that. Checked all the stringers and the fiberglass looks all in tack. NO ROT spots in any structural supports. The transom also looks good. Nothing obvious. So looks ready to go. Any thing I might have missed. This is my first restore project, so can use all the help I can get. Thank you for all your support (To everyone on this thread) I also came up on a problem with the trim and tilt system wiring. I got this 1987 engine with low hours and found that the wiring in the diagram shows a down solenoid in two places and the 89 version which I'm working on does not have those. Would I be able to hook up the wires with out using the solenoids, seeing as the newer model probably have these solenoids attached in the component. Anyone know about this? Thanks again
 
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