2003 johnson 60 hp 4 stroke efi engine will not start

First off I am a veteran,after my wife of 30 years died, I was diagnosed with PTSD, and this boat has been like a lifeline for me.
I took my boat to the river and put it in, it starters perfectly as always, I started down the river nice and easy, and began to speed up, just as I got to top speed the engine died slowly. And I have not got it to start since. I done some research online at my nephews house, and found out that the boat has a onboard diagnostic tests. I checked and it had a code, 4-2 ckp crankshaft position sensor bad, I checked it, it worked. I know on cars the camshaft position sensor will prevent a car from starting. So I checked online, the cmp camshaft position sensor should have a resistance of 168-252 ohms, I checked the cmp the first time I checked it, it read 168 ohms, since this sensor works with pulses, I thought I would check it more than once, so I took one of the leads off of the harness plug, and put it back, I got a reading of 45 ohms, I repeated this 10 times, and only got readings within the range it should have been twice. Could this be the reason the engine will not start? If so where can I find this sensor.
Thanks
Ron1

Either a bad crankshaft position sensor or a bad camshaft position sensor will still allow the engine to start.
The EMM senses that the sensor is bad, and begins operating in a fixed timing mode that allows you to limp back to dock.

Testing the sensor is straightforward. First you can do the resistance test that you have already done.
Second, you can attach your ohmmeter to the sensor, and move/wave a screwdriver tip near the metal bullet of the sensor.
Your ohmmeter will fluctuate as the screwdriver passes by the bullet of the sensor.

The camshaft position sensor is under the plastic top cover of the engine. It is bolted to the block in very close proximity to
the camshaft belt pulley, on the starboard side of the engine. It is in plain view.
Follow the wires back to the plastic electrical parts box, and unplug it there...then do the test. Keep the sensor bullet tip AWAY from the metal pickup points on the camshaft belt pulley.

Regarding your non-start....gotta have three things...compression, spark, and fuel.
Since you were running, and you describe it as slowly dying off, I would suspect fuel.

So, first thing...turn key to on, and verify that the HP fuel pump runs for about 10 seconds and then quits.
If not, you have to debug that first. Just listen for the humming pump sound.

Second....you will see the fuel rail on the rear port side of the engine. There is a chrome screw that caps off the fuel rail at the top.
I use a spare banjo fitting there to tap in a fuel pressure gauge. You must have 42psi on that fuel rail when the key is ON, and during the first ten seconds.
If you don't have the banjo fitting, find a place at the bottom of the rail in the incoming fuel lines to tap a fuel gauge in for pressure readings.
It must be AFTER the HP fuel filter.....

Third......MAP sensor. You can have a bad MAP sensor and the engine will not throw a code. Examine the vacuum hose and wiring to the MAP sensor.
It is located on the port side front of the engine, under the flywheel, sorta directly above the point where the intake turns 90* and the runners split off for each cylinder. It will have a three wire connector and a small hose. A bad MAP sensor will allow the engine to fire, but it will not stay running.
Electrically testing the MAP sensor is involved and a bit complicated.
Fourth.....IAC valve. Idle Air Controller valve. These are common failure parts. It is located below the MAP sensor, and it bolts to the side of the intake.
There are two Phillips screws holding it on, and it has a two wire electrical lead. Just disconnect the electrical connector and using your meter on ohms, make sure you have continuity. Also, you can use some jumpers to +12v and ground to power the IAC valve momentarily to see if it clicks.
Just DO NOT leave power on it for more than a second or so. Just touch the positive at the last connection to see if you can hear clicking.

PM me and we can talk on the phone if you need more detail.

One more thing....if I had to guess, I would immediately suspect the HP fuel pump has locked up.
It is located inside the fuel vapor separator.

I am using my sons phone to do this over yfi or what ever it is called, it takes me forever to type anything in.

What I felled to mention earlier is that one of the first things I suspected was a fuel issue, I loosened the bolt on top of the fuel rail and turned the ignition switch on, it had a lot of pressure and sprayed fuel everywhere.
And when I passed the screwdriver over the ckp it activated the iac valve, I thought the iac valve silencer

My name is actually Ron I have no internet access except through my sons phone or going about twelve miles to my nephews house.

My name is actually Ron I have no internet access except through my sons phone or going about twelve miles to my nephews house.

Another thing I didn't mention is that I pulled the fuel rail with the injectors attached to it and turned the ignition on all the injectors fired, but only sprayed about 3/4 of an inch, and I thought it should have had a little stronger spray.

Yes...all good debug tactics. The only thing I don't understand is why you seem to be getting IAC activity when passing screwdriver past the CMP sensor.

Test it like I suggested, disconnect harness, attach ohm meter, pass screwdriver by, and it should show wavering of the ohm reading.

You should have gas shooting from the injectors about 4" out in a nice fan pattern with the fuel rail off, and spraying in the air.

Get a pressure gauge on that rail somehow. 42 psi is goal.

Where are you?

I use to do electrical work on Freightliner trucks and I had one of the engine control module to store an intermittent problem and no matter what we tried we could not reset the fault. Is it possible that this module had something happen and it still holds it active, do you think I should disconnect the control module?

You have no idea how much I appreciate your help.
In the morning when I get up i will test the ckp sensor the way you said and I will try to get my son to rent a pressure gage and test the high pressure fuel system also.
Thanks
Ron1

No, disconnecting the emm will not clear or fix anything.
There are certain codes, ckp,cmp that will only clear once the engine is running again.
Emm must see certain number of revolutions WITHOUT any faults related to ckp (for example) before that code will clear.

Get that fuel pressure test done.

Thanks for the info on the EMM. On the Freightliner trucks the engine control module was referred to as ECM, what does EMM stand for?

EMM...Engine Management Module.

Thanks for the info.
I disconnected the map sensor and the engine started but would not stay running, and it ran very ruff.

Have you done anything else to this motor? What in the history have you not revealed?

Have you done any hose re-routing, for example, in an effort to fix it?

I cannot recommend much else until I see the results of the fuel pressure test.

If I moved any hose it was by accident, and only after all this began.
I'm sorry, but my memory is about as long as my fingernail is thick sometimes, then other times I do okay.
After all this began I took the plastic shroud off of the throttle body and disconnected the linkage and opened the throttle body all the way open, just to see if it would make any difference. It made no difference. But the only hose I took loose was the one on top of the shroud and I hooked it back up.

A very common mistake ppl make when working on the Df70, Df60 motors is the connections for the IAC silencer hoses.
If you hook it up like it seems to be normal and natural, it willnot run.
So, examine the IAC silencer. Army green, or grey plastic canister clipped to the bottom front of the intake. Right where it makes the 90* turn to head back to the cyl head.
There will be two hoses. One comes down from the intake, the IAC valve area. The other MUST run rearward for about 2 inches, turn up and snake it's way up behind the intake runners, emerging above the intake. Then it turns rearward, over the top of the vapor separator, and then down, tucked in behind the vapor separator.
Here is the deal: That hose MUST be open to the atmosphere. It connects to nothing.
Most ppl take that free end of the hose and re-connect it in error to an open nipple at the IAC/intake area. That is wrong.
Engine will not start like that, or if it starts with fast idle, when you bring it back to idle, it will die.

If you have not messed with that hose, then just double check it for proper connections as I described above.

I will check it as soon as I finish helping one of the youth pastors at my church, he has some electrical problems at his house. And then my nephew wants me to cut his lawn.

I went and fixed the electrical problems a the youth pastors house and he offered to pay me, but I refused, finally he said, ok I am not paying you for the work you done, it's a love offering and you are not supposed to refuse a love offering, so I said ok, and he gave me thirty dollars, so I went to autozone today to try and rent a pressure gage. The only pressure gage they rent was $150, but they sell one for $ 45, but I didn't have that much money. So as soon as I can come up with the money I will rent the pressure gage, do the test and get back to you on the high pressure fuel side psi.
Thanks again
Ron1

I just remembered something that happened back in 2004, I always hooked the lanyard to my wrist, and something distracted me and I pulled the lanyard loose, but the engine didn't die. I got a Selection repair manual the other day, and I have been trying to find out how the emergency stop switch, stops the engine, would it be like I described, I lost the lanyard, but I really would like to be able to find out how to check the ignition switch harness, to determine lf the emergency stop switch is working or not.

There is a kill line in the harness that when grounded, signals the EMM to shut the engine down. On most outboards, you can disconnect the kill line, or disconnect the harness at the engine to isolate the kill circuit, but not on this outboard.

It needs +12v power at all times to run. And you cannot disconnect the kill line, because it is in that large 60+ pin EMM connector.
You can probe it with a meter, but I will need to go to the shop and get the pin location and wire color. I do not know it right off.

Also, it will kill spark when the EMM is saying to shut down. Do you have spark?

If not, we are chasing our tails by debugging fuel. Spark cannot be tested like is described on this site with the 7/16" gap jump test.
It will just not work.

So, test spark by pulling a plug, attach plug wire, hold plug and wire to ground, and crank engine observing the gap for sparking....

This is a waste spark ignition design. #1 and #4 both spark at the same time. #2 and #3 both spark at the same time.
If you don't know what a waste spark design is, Google is your friend.

Sometimes my mouth just seems to work without my mind being in gear. I wasn't sure about how the kill switch worked, but if had thought even a little bit, I would have realized that the kill circuit had to be good, because when I pulled the connector for the map sensor loose, the engine started. Sometimes I wonder if my brain didn't go on vacation somewhere and forgot to tell me where it was going.
I really hate that I wasted your time, but I just get so agravated that I can't figure things out.
Thanks for your patience and all your help.

Waste spark ignition, I think it means that all the plugs fire regardless of which cylinder is at top died center on the compression stroke, l am not really sure.

So I guess I am back to waiting until I can come up with the money to rent a pressure gage.

Today I was able to rent the fuel pressure gage, and I did the test, I had to use the inlne fuel bulb to pump fuel into the VS tank in order to do the test. I hooked the fuel pressure gage up between the high pressure fuel filter and the fuel rail, I cycled the ignition off to on, several times to get fuel into the hose on the pressure gage, then I let it wait for a few seconds, then cycled the switch to on. I got 38 psi, I released the pressure, and I cycled the switch again, I repeated this several times, once I got 40 psi, then I repeated the test between the VST and the high pressure fuel filter, I got the same results. I never got over 40 psi. Is it possible that something other than the electric fuel pump is the problem. I forgot to mention that one of my sons worked the ignition for me, the first time he turned the ignition too fare, and the engine started right up, and smoked really bad as long as it ran, which was not very long.
Thanks
Ron1

looks fine. no problems there. I know I said 42, but 40 will not prevent from starting.

We are going to have to go to basics. chk spark on all cyls like I said above.
have you posted compression numbers? I forget.
compression should be above 190 all cyls.

if all that checks out, we should look at valve timing. hows your timing belt look?
valve timing will affect compression.

you check the routing of the hose I talked about?

I could not find anything on the routing of the hoses, but I did check the compression, I had 145 on 3 cylinders and 143 on the other one. I checked for spark before the way you said by taking each plug and grounding it, that's the only way I ever new to check it. The other day I read something about I could have messed up the EMM by checking for spark that way.

145 is way too low. Should be ion the 200 range. The spec from the book is 216, I believe is what I remember.
So either your gauge is wrong, or the engine has jumped valve timing....

Checking spark the way you did will not damage the EMM.
Double check compression with another gauge. It is good sign that all four are so close together....tells me that whatever the problem,
it is affecting the cyls the same way...and that points me to valve timing.

Make sure the 145 you are seeing is correct.

What do you mean...you could not find anything on the routing of the hoses? Find the hose I described, follow it to its endpoint, and make sure it is open to the air, and someone hasn't gotten creative with it and plugged it into the open nipple up at the IAC valve area. Just verify....that's all.

I loose track of what we talked about as far as the hose routing, yes I did make sure the IAC valve silencer hose was open to the atmosphere, I disconnected the hose between the IAC valve and the silencer to try and see if maybe the silencer was stopped up, it made difference. I will do another compression test and get back to you with the results. Thanks

I forgot to let you know that the timing belt looks like a new belt.

You know if I keep on eventually I'll be able to remember everything that I have done to this engine, I'm sorry that I can't remember everything up front, even now as I was trying to let you know about something else I had tried, I forgot what I was trying to tell you. One thing I know for sure, I didn't disconnect any of the fuel or v But I a little bit curious about the timing on this engine, with the CMP and the CKP wouldn't the EMM detect if there was a timing issue?