290DP rebuild/repair question

A quick FYI Rock Auto has Neapco 1-6301 U-joints on closeout for 3.01$ each. Neapco joints are high quality and made in USA with a grease fitting in the apex of the cross

Be very careful when substituting bearing crosses for this application.
You will find an array of external cap clips of different thickness, as well as the profile of the trunion cap.


If memory serves me..... these are bearing crosses that will work:

Neapco 1-0005
Spicer 5.4X
Precision 344
Rockford K4
Meyle 3520 997

The Meyle (German) #3520 997 is a great choice, but are rather expensive.
However, even this one needs a tad bit of surface material removed from the outer face of each bearing cap.
A disc style surface sanding machine will usually do the trick.


And don't worry if the new crosses are absent the grease fitting.
As I've mentioned many times, the Marine stern drive universal drive shaft bearing crosses do not articulate as greatly as their cousins do (the automotive crosses)!

Since the Marine cross does not need to articulate as much, they undergo much more point loading, therefor no amount of new grease will stop this type of point load wear.
The point load wear is also very limited to a small area of the trunion surface, so any wear is very hard to feel by hand.
This can lead us to think that they are OK, when they may actually be very close to reaching a point of extreme wear.


I'm not suggesting that greasing them is a bad idea.
And by all means grease them if they have become wet.



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I was at the auto parts store when I saw this post on the Neapco 1-6301 cross and asked to look at a set they had in stock.. They inner clips and may be a replacement cross for the earlier style crosses but not for the one I have which Rick provided alternates to.

boatdoc55 said:

It's terrible to cut props off but what else can one do. Almost makes you cry for that perfectly pristine prop or props. Many customers have said just leave it alone!!! ???????? OK

Click to expand...

Last night after soaking the front prop hub and shaft in penetrating oil for over a week we made a home made jig and tried to press off the prop from the lower end. First we chipped off the zinc and previouly had removed the lower end so we could move it around and put it in a press. The press had the rubber hub shifted almost 3/4" and it didn't break loose so we put lots of heat on it until the rubber let go and the prop came apart from the hub. Here is a pick of the hub coming off the shaft after we stripped the rubber off it and put more heat on the metal hub.



I figured it was better to do this way then cut the prop off. Will a prop shop be able to press a new rubber hub and balance this prop?

I missed the post stating you had the external clips, sorry for the confusion.

Neapco 1-6301 7260 Series U-Joint
Please use the online catalog to select your part numbers

16301, 5-1306X, 51306X, 320, RL7260, D-207, D-134A, 858001, 5-789X, 5789X

MFG/SERIESETROIT 7260
A1 LOCK UP:2.125
A2 LOCK UP:2.125
B1 BEARING CAP DIAMETER:1.078
B2 BEARING CAP DIAMETER:1.078
BEARING TYPE:ROUND-ISR
CONVERSION:
LUBE FITTING:W/ 1 Lube Fitting In Cross

Another thing worth mentioning.

The OEM external bearing cap clips/retainers are rather thin.... whereas the clips/retainers provided by the substituded bearing crosses, are often much thicker.

Try your best to save and re-use the OEM clips/retainers!


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wow there seams to be a ton of good info here. I am going to have to read through it later when i have the time. I have a DP290 drive. My steering ram has a leak. p/n 852741. I am trying to find seals to rebuild it. DonnyH I sent you pm about but thought i would post since Ricardo is very knowledgeable himself. I also have an issue with the reverse lock on the outdrive but maybe I will start another thread and see how it goes.

This is an old thread from 2015!
It would be best if you were to start a new thread.


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