Need mercruiser 233 Rochester carb float specs please

I'm rebuilding 2 1976 mercruiser ford 233hp Rochester 2 barrel carbs and need the float specs. I need the float level and the float drop please. If needed, but I don't think you will need it, the carb number is 17056197,, thanks very much. I have looked everyplace online and can not find them,, plus my delicious 1964-91 repair book skips the 233hp specs

here it is

Thanks for the information

Ok I rebuilt both port & starboard carbs, all to the above specs. However, the port carb seems to have problems in the higher rpm's +2700 or higher after running 15-20 minutes a few miles, it bogs down, smells rich, if I bring the throttle down,, let it recover it will run better for a while, maybe 10 min or so. Timing is 10 degrees, dwell is 20 degress, new fuel filter, gas lines are all ok, I have adjusted and double checked the pump rod on the carb to the above spec of 1 3/16" from the top of the carb bowl to the top of the pump rod. ANY IDEAS what I'm missing??? Please help. Thanks.

I suspect it's running lean on you. Look for an air leak before the pump, a restriction in the filtering system, or a plugged tank vent.

Jeff

Ok I'll check more things out. Still has me stumped, I can troll on it all night, power in and out 5 miles or so running 2700 rpm and zero issues However 2900 or so plus it acts up

Sounds like a lack f fuel pressure. Not something to let keep happening or you'll drill a piston.

Jeff

So maybe a weak fuel pump? I'm thinking its a fuel delivery problem since it will run like a champ under 2700 rpm, I was thinking a weak fuel pump. Any chance if the accelerator pump rod in the carb is not into spec cause this? I measure from the top of the carb down to the pump rod top. The pump lever bottoms out on the carb air horn assembly when the throttle is fully open, on my other engine, the same lever does not bottom out on the carb when throttle is fully open,, off set about a 1/4".

The accelerator pump rod or settings are only for initial throttle activation to avoid a lean stumble when (giving it throttle) The rod location etc is adjusted for more or less volume (squirt) when first applying throttle only. It has nothing to do with wide open throttle performance.

Do you have the pump rod in the same hole on the accelerator arm?
Don't get all focused on this but try to get it as close as the other.......This is not your issue.

99% of the time there is no rod or linkage adjustments needed when rebuilding a carb..........just check to make sure they function properly.
Remember it worked before it will work after. The linkage that is............


Are you sure its the carb and a fuel issue? Are you sure it is not a timing advance issue?

If you are running two motors then swap parts to see if problem transfers to other motor or the change in pats fixes your motor.

The timing checks out at 10 degrees at idle and 30 while at 2000 rpm. I understand the function of the pump on the carb, so I'm not thinking its that issue. I have another carb that I can rebuild tonight to rule out any internal carb issues and will swap it out.