65ESL72 startability issues.

Hello. Haven't posted in awhile as I've been deployed. I've had issues with this engine awhile back, but finally had it going perfectly for awhile before I went on my desert camping trip for nine months. Drained the fuel and fogged the engine before I left. When I got back, she ran like a top the first two times I took her out, though by the end of the second trip she was starting to have issues restarting. Not bad, just had to crank a bit more than normal. Now she's at the point where she fires right up on the earmuffs, but won't fire if the motor is submerged.

I haven't checked spark yet. I did run comp numbers and I'm at 112, 110, and 120 on cylinders 1, 2, and 3. I'm going out right now to buy some long leads to build a spark tester. I think my comp numbers are low though. I'll have to look up the thread from when I changed the head gasket awhile back. I think I was closer to 150 back then. Maybe I need rings.

Anyways, if any of this sounds familiar to you, I'd appreciate your insight.

Dug up the old post from when I replaced the head gasket. That was Feb 2014. I was at 128, 130, 130 on comp after the new gasket.

Do a good decarb on it and see what happens.

Should've added that. I just put the carbs back on it about a week ago. Pulled them apart and cleaned them really good. Also replaced the o-rings that hold the low speed needles. Fuel is all brand new, about a week old.

By decarb I meant run some type of ring free though the motor.

Sorry, I'm not following you on what a ring free is. Could you explain a bit?

I just googled it and figured out what you were talking about. That's definitely a good idea as I've never done it and I've owned this motor for about five years myself.

Ok, rigged up a spark tester and found that I'm not getting spark except for the first few cranks. I do not have a DVA adapter, though I ordered one earlier today. I've had to replace two could since I got back and replaced the stator last spring. I'm beginning to suspect an issue coming from the power pack rectifier(s).

Is there a way to troubleshoot the power pack? I dug through my shop manual (clymer) and the only time it ever talks about the power pack is in the diagrams. It never mentions it in the electrical/ignition section, though it does break down some of the simpler ignition systems and talks about replacing rectifiers. As this is an epoxy sealed unit, I don't think that possible here. I'd really like to know for sure before I just spend $150 at the local outboard place for a new one.

Cheaper we if I order it, but they have them in stock and I'd like to get this on the water while my son is still here.

Have you checked the starter motor ?------Does the lower unit go into nuetral after about one revolution of the cranshaft when starting it ?

She doesn't have any shifting problems. Shifts into neutral just like she should. Problem was intermittent spark. Going off of past symptoms led me to the power pack. The stator doesn't have any obvious signs of failure and it's just a bit over a year old. I had two coils fail about a year and a half ago that also failed again three weeks ago. Doing a bit of digging and some info from Mr Reeves told me that the only thing that can cause these symptoms is a failing power pack. Running continuity across the pack, I got continuity in both directions which should indicate failed diodes so it's sending A/C voltage through my ignition which is causing the excess heat that fried my old stator and my coils.

I replaced the power pack and checked spark again. I have a nice strong spark from all three coils. Then I started her up on the muffs and let her idle while I dialed in the carbs. She idled just fine for about 20 minutes.