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1994 Honda bf9.9a/15a crankcase breather issues?

That is just SO weird! First off...unless you are really "overspraying" and "gaggiing" the engine....any CHANGE from doing that indicates some sort of leak. Ok...that's unusual enough.

But, to have the added fuel cause to engine to bog down is also unusual. That would mean the engine is ALREADY probably getting more fuel than it can easily burn at idle. In MOST intake leak cases....when the engine receives the added fuel it will speed up momentarily. You aren't accidentally hitting the plug wires or ignition coil with the spray are you?

At any rate, you do need to determine WHY the engine speed is CHANGING...whether it be high or low. If there is an intake leak in that area....you need to seal it and AFTER that, try to determine if she's running rich.

Man! This is one for the "wayback" books!

Also, to answer your stator coil question....you should be able to ohm check any coil without removing the flywheel. As far as output...all the coils will generate low amperage, ac voltage signals that should increase in relation to rpm. There is no provision or specifications for checking ac volts output of these coils. But if you really wanted to do it, finding a place in the wiring to tap in with test leads hooked in PARALLEL would yield results. I don't think I'd try it as this wiring is old and it wasn't all that "hardy" when it was new. Ohm testing should tell you if it's serviceable or not.
 
jgmo said:
That is just SO weird! First off...unless you are really "overspraying" and "gaggiing" the engine....any CHANGE from doing that indicates some sort of leak. Ok...that's unusual enough.

But, to have the added fuel cause to engine to bog down is also unusual. That would mean the engine is ALREADY probably getting more fuel than it can easily burn at idle. In MOST intake leak cases....when the engine receives the added fuel it will speed up momentarily. You aren't accidentally hitting the plug wires or ignition coil with the spray are you?

At any rate, you do need to determine WHY the engine speed is CHANGING...whether it be high or low. If there is an intake leak in that area....you need to seal it and AFTER that, try to determine if she's running rich.

Man! This is one for the "wayback" books!

Also, to answer your stator coil question....you should be able to ohm check any coil without removing the flywheel. As far as output...all the coils will generate low amperage, ac voltage signals that should increase in relation to rpm. There is no provision or specifications for checking ac volts output of these coils. But if you really wanted to do it, finding a place in the wiring to tap in with test leads hooked in PARALLEL would yield results. I don't think I'd try it as this wiring is old and it wasn't all that "hardy" when it was new. Ohm testing should tell you if it's serviceable or not.
Click to expand...

No I'm just sprit zing a small amount at a time , the new factory carb I put on it has a keeper on the air fuel adjusting screw I can only adjust it a small amount either way
im going to take it out to the lake and pull the grand kids around in the tube then drop the kicker and run it for awhile maybe it will heal itself
 
ok finally got the flywheel off , this doesn't look good at first glance , but I guess its just the cover missing off the windings

magnets on flywheel have some surface rust
 

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You can wrap new gauze tape on the charging coil if you want. That rust should come off with some 1500 wet dry sandpaper wetted with PB Blaster or the new "rust off" WD 40. Just don't use something like 180 grit and start sanding so much you alter the air gap dimension.

might as well replace the timing belt while you're in there. It looks pretty old in the pictures. How loose is it? It should be taught enough to give you a nice bass "hum" when you pluck it like a guitar string. Or, about 1/4" deflection midway between the pulleys.

Did you give up on the "spritzing"?

I hope you get it squared away. That rust could be part of the problem.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
jgmo said:
You can wrap new gauze tape on the charging coil if you want. That rust should come off with some 1500 wet dry sandpaper wetted with PB Blaster or the new "rust off" WD 40. Just don't use something like 180 grit and start sanding so much you alter the air gap dimension.

might as well replace the timing belt while you're in there. It looks pretty old in the pictures. How loose is it? It should be taught enough to give you a nice bass "hum" when you pluck it like a guitar string. Or, about 1/4" deflection midway between the pulleys.

Did you give up on the "spritzing"?

I hope you get it squared away. That rust could be part of the problem.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
So one is the exciter coil and one is the charge coil ,is the charge one the one wrapped in gauze tape?
so the charge coil just runs the charging circuit to the battery ? And the exciter coil creates the power to run the motor? Is there anyway to test these or should I just replace ? Maybe this is my problem as it only runs well at 600 rpm or at 1300 rpm
and also clean the rust off the magnets
 
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