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A greenhorn with a Chrysler 45 hp 456H8J

M

mytoy

New member
Hi community,

I´ve got a boat with a Chrysler 45 hp outboard for present. I want to preserve that ancient engine but because I live in Germany, I want to check the circumstances first. There are no service / parts available over here and I don´t want to drown in costs without having a proper engine. After a quick check I can say it is running but I think there´s something wrong with the cooling pump, there was no water at the outlet while it was running.
Is there anything you want to tell me about the engine-type / general situation ect. ?? Anyone existing who is familiar with that engine and can give me helpful hints if needed ? I hope , you cover me with yout input :)

Kind regards,

Frank
 
Hello Frank, welcome.
Jerry is the Ace here on these Chrysler outboards.

Service manuals are available on this site as well as others, and a good investment. Click on the links above.

I wouldn't run it without water pumping though it. I believe parts are available but you need to make sure what you order is correct for your model. Check and double check.

A couple other sites...

http://www.maxrules.com/trouble.html

http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/library.html
 
Welcome.
As near as I can find.
It's a 1978
These motors are a simple, easy to fix.
Not too hard on fuel if it's set up right.
The wrong prop can cost a lot in fuel.
The impeller is still available.47-F433065-2 About $18
You can buy it here on this site.
I think they will ship to Germany.
On these units most of the exhaust water exits through the snout on the bottom of the lower unit.
So you probably won't see much coming from the mid housing.
But STILL change the impeller.
Better be safe than ruin the head.
 
Hi ,

thanks for your quick response to both of you . I´ll start the project within the next weeks. You gave me confidence to spend time for recovering the engine...
Maybe "1 or 2" questions still will appear..... :confused:

Kind regards,

Frank
 
Hi Jerry,

I´ve bought the "Clymer Chrysler outboard manual" but I can´t fnd the information I need:
For checking the state of the impeller, is it possible to loosen only the four screws as marked at the pic ?
Or is it necessary to disassemble the complete lower part ?
Thanks again for your hepl ! If you need German Wurst or something, let me know :)
Regards, Frank

Impeller_2.jpg
 
Those 4 bolts and possibly one in front hold it in place.
No don't take it apart. Big mess there.
There is a shift shaft that has a connector that will need to be taken apart.
 
Hi,

checked compression yesterday, +/- 116 p.s.i. each cylinder, ( warm engine) seems good to me.
But: no water in the water tube from colling systen, even after a few minutes running at idling speed. Stopped engine , had the feeling, it got too hot. Need to check the impeller, but therefore I have to remove the gearshaft, don´t I ?
Both ingnition coils have a slit, looks not normal ? Maybe they cracekd because of thermic problems ? Seal or remove them ?
Thanks for your opinions !

IMG_1114_klein.jpg
 
Removed the gearcase, was easy. Impeller looks worn out , but no desaster in there. I´ll change the complete water pump.
Still the question about the ignition coils left.............

Thanks !
 
Tach and stuff 001.jpgTach and stuff 002.jpg
If the coils are sparking. Don't worry.
Just fill them in with silicone.
They make a black colored one that will look good when filled in.

Also start and run in a deep bucket.
That motor needs a special muff for running on a hose.

The bucket needs to be deep enough to be over the cavitation plate by 3-4inches.

Or get the right muffs(probably not gonna happen where you live) see pic.
 
Thanks.
I´m not sure what to do with those muffs ? Seal those 2 little water entrances with the grill ?
I had it running in a deep bucket, the entrances were underneath the water level and I refilld the bucket constantly with the waterhose. But there was no water to see in the transparent tube at the cylinderhead, neither after a few minutes running.
If that ist not enough to check the state of the colling system: Please describe the process more exactly ! where to put the hose, if the water inlet ist sealed ?

I really appreciate your helpfulness, thanks !!

Frank
 
The muffs seal the water intake (grill) on both sides of the leg. A garden hose is attached to the one muff with the hose fitting.
 
The bucket needs to be REALLLLY deep.
The cavitation plate needs to be 3-4in under water.
The pump isn't a pump that will suck up water.
Once it's under water and primed it will continue to draw/pull.
Maybe that's why you get no water when running??
Don't worry about the muffs. Just get a DEEEEEEP bucket.
Or if you have muffs?? I use duct tape and seal them real good.
Duct tape won't stick if the housings wet or oily.
 
ok, thanks !
I´ll order all spare parts, change them and then I´ll put it in a deep and looong bucket, a river nearby !
I hope, I don´t need paddles then.....
 
You cannot test a water pump by running on muffs. The garden hose supplies the water, not the pump. The pump merely allows the hose water to flow through--not a test at all. Use the river.
 
Hi there,


it took it´s time but now I´ve already replaced all wearing parts. The engine runs and also the cooling is in full function.
Now I try to fix the engine timing. I´m using the CLYMER outboard shop manual but don´t understand everything they are writing .
What I did / what´s the current situation

Ø :changed both contacts and condensers; set the breakers to 0.020 in.

Ø :changed both sparks ( NGK B8S)
:engine is starting well but it has some dropouts and makes knocking noises !

Ø :checked timing with a timing gun, the mark at the flywheel is behind the mark at the crankcase, means point of ignition is too late.

Ø :Tried to fix it with adjusting the spark control link, respectively with the screw at the towershaft. The point of igniting went towards the mark at the crankcase but it´s still behind and the engine is still knocking. But the thread is at the end.

So I suppose, I did it the wrong way.
So the main question is: How to fix the timing without having the timig tool ? And: Do you think the knocking sound is because of the late ignition ? If necessary I can post a short movie of the running engine.

What I also noticed: The sparkplug oft he lower engine is oily, also after running ( cylinder is working) I checked the cylinder pressure some months ago, it was ok ….

Thanks for your response !
Kind regards Frank
 
tester2.jpgtester.jpg
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/force-chrysler-outboards[/url]

Go to this forum.
The first few posts in the Force/Chrysler forum cover the timing and carb setup.
This ain't like timing a car.

You'll need a way to ground the plugs. See pics.
And a remote starter system.
 
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