tilt motor only turns one way

I have a 1975 Chrysler outboard, 75hp, with a tilt motor (I don't think it's the original, it's a remanufactured). Last year the tilt motor worked, got the outboard motor up for towing anyway. When we got home after an hour and a half or so, the outboard motor had moved back down (there is no manual stop of any kind to keep it up). I stored it for the fall/winter, now it won't tilt up. I had to disconnect the hydraulic lines so I could manually push the outboard up, I want to replace the hydraulic fluid for the tilt anyway. I bypassed the tilt switch, I have the ground wire (black) on the negative battery terminal, and when I touch the green wire to the positive terminal, the tilt motor spins nice. When I touch the other wire (red) to the positive terminal (by itself), nothing happens (except the wire gets very hot and starts to burn).

Am I doing something wrong? I took the tilt motor apart to make sure the brushes were contacting well, they are. I sanded the points (I think they're points) a little bit to clean them good. The assembly spins freely manually, no problem. The wire connections in there seem to be OK, nothing broken.

What do you think?

Try the black on positive and the red on ground.

Tonight I decided to tighten up the lines and bleed the cylinder, moved the outboard up and down manually and added fluid as necessary. Tried the same thing i did before to make the trim motor work, with the black on negative and touched green on positive, it spun OK, but I noticed hydraulic fluid was leaking out one or more of the lines at the cylinder. I thought i tightened the nuts up good, quite snug, i don't want to over tighten, should I tighten them up more until they don't move anymore? I don't have a torque wrench, and you couldn't really fit one up in there anyway.

Want to resolve this leak before i test the motor further, with the wires the way you suggest. I dont want to strip them.

Try to loosen them first.
Then tighten as tight as you can.
Do it in tiny turns as you test.

OK, good advice, I did that and noticed that the 2nd line (of 3) wasn't in all the way and seemed crooked. When I loosened it all the way and tried to put it back in, it didn't seem to fit right, then I realized there are 4 holes. I put the 2nd line in hole 3 and it fit nice, and went in snug. I think the fluid was leaking out of hole 3 before when there was no line in it, but there wasn't much fluid in the reservoir yet anyway. Must be a plug of some sort a little way in the 2nd hole (not needed?). So all the lines are in and snug now, tonight I will test the wire situation. I will try the black wire from the motor on positive, and the red from the motor to ground.

If I understand everything correctly, ultimately when I put the wires back together to the switch, the three wires should run like this:

Red from pos battery terminal to middle of switch, green from top of switch back to the stern splice to the green wire to the motor, blue from bottom of switch back to the stern splice to the black wire to the motor.

From the motor, red wire to the neg battery terminal.

Does that sound right?

Also, do they have manual stops that you can install for this motor that can be engaged when the motor is tilted all the way up for towing? (so it's not putting pressure on the hydraulics)

Ok, I tried red to ground instead, tilt motor did nothing, wires got hot when I touched them to pos terminal. Update... took motor apart again and noticed red wire inside was frayed bad, partially broken in place I couldn't see well before. Soldered it together good and wrapped in electrical tape, put back together. Tried black again on ground, now green on pos spins good, and blue spins too, other way... finished topping off fluid, now everything works, outboard goes up and down.

Just have to wire to the switch up forward. Hope my wiring idea works (see other post in this thread), what do you think?

One more thing, motor goes down faster than I remember, up is about same speed, any reason for this?

Hi
I hope i have found somebody that can help me i have just purchased a 4.7M caribbean with a 140HP Chrysler the motor looks big and bold but it has some issues it won't raise past the trim it runs but won't go all the way up it has been sitting for about 6-8 years and my thinking is that if i un-screw the filler screw on the side and lift it up several times then put the screw back it may get rid of the air that may have settled over the years
i am 73 and needed some stress in my life so i bought this boat from the chap next door i've been asking him for 6 years to sell it to me it had grass growing in it They say BOAT MEANS "Bring Out Another Thousand how tight they are
So i hope you may be able to help
Simon

Simon.The "air" .
Try removing the fill screw and adding fluid.
The motor MUST be down when adding oil.
Remove the cap and check the color of the oil.
Some use 30wt.(brown) some use trans fluid(red)

If that doesn't help? Then get a factory manual.
The Clymer and SElocs are good but don't have the specifics that the OEM has.

Simon welcome to the site.
You shouldn't tag on another's post even if it's the same problem.
You'll get more attention with your own.
Find the button that says Thread Starter. or New post.

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My tilt just did this too. Out of nowhere. Replaced the 2 relays that the tilt motor plugs into. Local auto parts store. 5 minute fix on the water. $20 total.