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1959 Evinrude 15 hp fast twin LS , problem getting motor running

RA577

New member
I recently purchased this motor and having hard time getting it going, have compression tanks, new gas with 2cycle oil mix 24:1, replaced gas lines and tank working properly. Carb is getting gas , gas well is full, motor wanted to turn over but just died as.

1. Recoil is rough pull, not fluid at all, but does work.
2. not sure on low and high speed adjustments, missing knob on lower adjustment which I think is High, on Low speed seems to be a #'s on knob but not on where it should be set at.
3. this motor was running fine till previous owner put in storage shed, he did P/m on motor prior to storage.

So any and all assist would be helpful!!
 
There is no such thing as a 1959 15hp Evinrude/Johnson model. I suspect you have a older 15hp that incorporates the dual fuel line setup. What is the model number of that engine?

The fuel tanks would be pressure tanks, not compression tanks. Your mixture of 24/1 is correct. Always put some gas in the tank first, then the oil, then the rest of the gas.... If you put the oil in first, you run the risk of having raw oil fed to the carburetor.

Being in storage, if you still have compression and spark, the problem is usually a fouled carburetor, in which case, clean and rebuild it. Rig a spark tester where you can set a 1/4" gap for the spark to jump... the spark must jump that gap with a strong blue lightning like flame, a real SNAP! NOTE... using spark plugs to test the spark is a waste of time, the 1/4" gap is important!

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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Joe thanks for your input 1st of all, Well think this is either a mid 50's 15 hp or 18 hp Long shaft, # on Cowling is 203739, ok on adjustments of Low/high speed , but can I do these to motor running?? think you hit nail on head about carb, but never rebuilt one, cleaned yes , but never rebuilt! Recoil might be a contributing factor of not running, pull is real rough!! the tanks are working properly, had to replace gas lines on tank, This motor was running fine two yrs ago when put up by Elderly gentleman I purchased it from, or this is what he stated! cost of motor was 225$, heard tanks are a hundred apiece from a reliable vintage boat guy, not sure if I believe that! Joe thanks for your help, would appreciate any further guidance you can give!!
 
Joe thanks for your input 1st of all, Well think this is either a mid 50's 15 hp or 18 hp Long shaft, # on Cowling is 203739, ok on adjustments of Low/high speed , but can I do these to motor running?? think you hit nail on head about carb, but never rebuilt one, cleaned yes , but never rebuilt! Recoil might be a contributing factor of not running, pull is real rough!! the tanks are working properly, had to replace gas lines on tank, This motor was running fine two yrs ago when put up by Elderly gentleman I purchased it from, or this is what he stated! cost of motor was 225$, heard tanks are a hundred apiece from a reliable vintage boat guy, not sure if I believe that! Joe thanks for your help, would appreciate any further guidance you can give!!
 
just really like to get this motor running, tanks and lines in good shape for now, but will upgrade gas line in future, is this pump in-line on hose or is it something that attaches to motor??
 
Test for spark.---A good ignition system will jump a gap of 1/4" with a snap you can hear.----Does your motor do that , yes or no ?
 
Look for a small plate attached to the port (left) transom bracket that would have the Model & Serial number on it. Also a quarter sized core plug (looks like a small freeze out plug) on the powerhead. That may also have the numbers imprinted.

You say that the recoil starter pulls rough... we don't know what that means. Can you describe that action a little better?

If the recoil starter is over top of the flywheel, it can be removed so that you can wrap a cord/rope around the flywheel to crank the engine over. If you do this, is that "roughness" still there... describe.
 
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