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2006 Honda BF225 overtime alarm fault

J

jrthone

New member
I have a 2006 BF225 outboard. On a 24ft fibreglass walk around fishing boat. it has just hit 2000 hours. I have had a problem which has been getting worse as of late. Under initial acceleration to get up onto the plane a solid alarm rings and my overtime red light comes on on my throttle control. i put it back into neutral and then accelerate again and its fine. It does this almost overtime. no engine light on and the telltale stream coming out the back is nice and cold all the time and very powerful. It has new thermostats and water pump and i fish engine for atlas 15mins overtime and every second time with salt away. I fish out of Mt Maunganui , New zealand with a current water tmp of 16 degree C. i have checked my pick up and its not blocked.
 
jrthone said:
I have a 2006 BF225 outboard. On a 24ft fibreglass walk around fishing boat. it has just hit 2000 hours. I have had a problem which has been getting worse as of late. Under initial acceleration to get up onto the plane a solid alarm rings and my overtime red light comes on on my throttle control. i put it back into neutral and then accelerate again and its fine. It does this almost overtime. no engine light on and the telltale stream coming out the back is nice and cold all the time and very powerful. It has new thermostats and water pump and i fish engine for atlas 15mins overtime and every second time with salt away. I fish out of Mt Maunganui , New zealand with a current water tmp of 16 degree C. i have checked my pick up and its not blocked.
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Sorry. OverTemp alarm (Bloody autocorrect)
 
You may have a failed or failing heat sensor. There is one on the top of each water jacket. If you have the four-light key switch you can pull fault codes using a paper clip in a manner which has been described many times on this forum. If you cannot find it, send me an e-mail at [email protected] and I will send you the procedure for doing that. A code "24" is a fault in heat sensor number 1 on starboard side of the engine. A code "25" is heat sensor #2 is the on port side.

Check the connectors for corrosion. When you disconnect the sensor, measure the resistance on the two prongs coming from the sensor. Resistance varies inversely linearly with the temperature of the sensor. According to the Helm shop manual at 20 C (68F) resistance should be about 2500 ohm, at 40 C (104 F) about 1200 ohms, and at 60 C (140F) about 500 ohms. If resistance is not in this general range, replace the sensor.

Next, with the sensor still disconnected and key switch on, use a voltmeter to test the voltage to the sensor from the ECM. According to the manual, positive voltmeter lead to red/black wire from ECM and negative lead to motor ground. Note voltage. Next, positive lead to red wire from ECM and negative lead to ground. In both cases voltage should be between 4.30 and 5.25 volts. If either of those tests fail you have a wiring problem or a flakey ECM.
 
chawk_man said:
You may have a failed or failing heat sensor. There is one on the top of each water jacket. If you have the four-light key switch you can pull fault codes using a paper clip in a manner which has been described many times on this forum. If you cannot find it, send me an e-mail at [email protected] and I will send you the procedure for doing that. A code "24" is a fault in heat sensor number 1 on starboard side of the engine. A code "25" is heat sensor #2 is the on port side.

Check the connectors for corrosion. When you disconnect the sensor, measure the resistance on the two prongs coming from the sensor. Resistance varies inversely linearly with the temperature of the sensor. According to the Helm shop manual at 20 C (68F) resistance should be about 2500 ohm, at 40 C (104 F) about 1200 ohms, and at 60 C (140F) about 500 ohms. If resistance is not in this general range, replace the sensor.

Next, with the sensor still disconnected and key switch on, use a voltmeter to test the voltage to the sensor from the ECM. According to the manual, positive voltmeter lead to red/black wire from ECM and negative lead to motor ground. Note voltage. Next, positive lead to red wire from ECM and negative lead to ground. In both cases voltage should be between 4.30 and 5.25 volts. If either of those tests fail you have a wiring problem or a flakey ECM.
Click to expand...


Sweet Thanks mate. Hey thought id run this past you . my Local Honda dealer has created a slight fix for the O2 sensor problem. It doesn't fix it completely but makes the sensors last 3-4 x longer. The take the aluminium boss out of the exhaust manifold and the have machined up another boss that takes the oxy sensor out of the way of the mist of sea water in the exhaust manifold. They have done heaps of tests with good results. some fuel economy with way less 02 sensors being replaced. Have you heard of this?? Ill post a photo tomorrow for you
 
JR - I replied to your e-mail and sent the procedure for pulling the fault codes and an explanation of what each code means.

The solution for the HO2 sensors you described above sounds good. In a separate e-mail I sent Honda Service Bulletin #56 which explains why the older 225's and 200's keep blowing HO2 sensors. Starting at about the 2007 model year the Honda 200's and 225's were shipped with the new exhaust tubes.
 
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