2007 Honda 20 only run choked

Hi guys, I have a BF20DKSH have been in the proses of moving from south Fla. to north Fla. so the boat has not run in some time, I'm sure I ran the fule out last time cause I have had to pay a guy to clean the carb before.
Now it will start right up but if won't idle without some choke, I was running it today with one gal. of fresh premium gas and a whole bottle of sea foam mixed in, it seamed to help some, not as much choke needed. I am using a large barrow to run in. I have read other threads here on this and alot is said about a round looking thing to take out and clean I think it's next to the dip stick? Don't remember it's name I have CRS real bad {old} any advice would greatly appreciated.
I am fairly handy have taken the carb on my old Harley apart a few times, but Honda carb's are another animal....

Wow, not everyone at ounce. I found the fuel chamber on the dipstick and shook it out, took of the fuel filter and blue through it don't know if that is the right thing to do but no resistance. But before I did all that I started it up after sitting over night and it ran real good pushed the choke in and it idled fine, so I thinking the seafoam did the trick. Let it run at idle for about 15 min. and then revved it up some, then it started slowly loosing rpm and ruff that's when I did the chamber and checked the plugs to see if they were fouled, black in color not fouled.

Is it possible to take the float bowl off without removing the carb.?

Any help...

The round thing that you are referring to is the white bystarter, which you do not have, if you pull the choke out. When you pull the knob out, you are allowing additional fuel to flow into the carburetor for the engine to start. As you push the knob in, you are cutting off that extra fuel. The good news, is that passage is clear. If you have not been using any fuel treatment, just running the motor out of fuel will still leave fuel in the bowl and my eventually goo up the small passages inside the bowl (there are several) and/or could good up the idle passage. Unless you are familiar with how this carburetor works, it is difficult to clean effectively, even by a tech trained on other carburetors.

Your accelerator pump may also be sticking inside your carburetor. It is easy to check without taking the carb apart. As you are looking at the side of the carburetor, there is a black plastic lever that pushes down a shiny plunger going through a small rubber bellows as you advance the throttle. With the throttle all the way down in the start position, you can take you finger and push down on that vertical shiny plunger. If it moves down and springs back up, then it is probably working ok. If it is stuck, then it is probably gooed up or is stuck due to having water in the carburetor.

You have to remove the carburetor to get the bowl off. If you already have the side panel off, it is only 4 bolts to remove. You have to remove the fuel line, unhook the throttle lever, and unscrew the choke cable as it goes into the carb. Take pictures before you take it off so you can see how the gaskets and hoses are positioned.

If you are looking to do this yourself and have some mechanical ability, it would be wise to purchase the Honda Marine Carburetor Manual on Amazon or ebay. http://www.amazon.com/Honda-Marine-Carburetion-Service-Repair/dp/B00D2Z1AFO

It is well worth the money. It has great colored pictures and step by step instructions.

As a side note, using Sea Foam is ok for trying to fix a problem like you have, but generally has limited success if there is a passage that is totally clogged and the solution can not get to it.

Once you get things going well, switch to a different fuel treatment on an ongoing basis. Sea Foam has alcohol in it.....adding that to the alcohol already in the fuel is not good over time. Use PRI-G, Stabil-Marine, or similar treatment.

Hope that helps some.

Mike

Thank you very much Hondadude!!!! That was some good info, I have one other ?.. If the motor is going to sit for awhile is there a float bowl drain screw? see a tube from the bottom out next to the water discharge hole. Would it be correct to drain the bowl that way instead of running out of gas?

Yes. Run fuel treatment all the time. Run the motor out of fuel, then drain the carburetor.

You will need a long skinny screwdriver. The drain screw is in the front side of the bowl. The fuel will go out through the clear hose to the little hole next to the water tell tail hole.

If you run the engine out of fuel, you will just need a rag or a small paper towel to catch the fuel that you drain....there should only be a few drops.

Mike

Hello guys,
First at all i want to excuse myself because my English is not so good but i will try to be as much as possible correct.
I will write her ein that post because is similar with my problem.
I also tryed to connect personal - HONDADUDE, but he reject any private messages.
If he read that popst i will ask him to contact me.


I have problem with Honda BF20D - manual start / manual choke - 2010 year of construction.


The engine stay for 2,5 years with benzine in carb and was not been tuched since then.
Now i try to mentain/adjust it and put it in a normal working condition.


The engine had only one problem and it is cold start.


If i try to start it with the normal procedure:
pump at the hand pump, pull choke then pull the hand start - nothing happends!
No any sound of ignition, smoke, or any sign that it tryes to start.
No matter if the choak is fully or half pulled.
Like the kill switch is activated!


But if i use the hand throttle for 3-4 timce fully opened then leave it in start position and pull it - it starts immediately.
Unfortunately if it is too cold weather it starts but the RPM are very rough and it dies. I repeat that procedure 2 max 3 times and it starts. I give him a little throttle by hand and when it works 30seconds then it act like a brand new engine. And if i leave it 5 minutes to work then it start from 1/3 pull all day.


The choke doesn't act like normal. When i start it after 10 seconds , 20 or 30 if i pull it 1/3 or full engine dies!
Choke dousn't act normal.
Whith my knowledge the cold engine need fully opened choke because it will delivered more fuel (starting dose)
then depends of outer temperatuse must be closed half or fully.


I tryed to spray a little starting fluid and it starts immediately.


Carburator was fully disassambled by me and cleaned twice with carb cleaner very carefully at every hole.
also one more time with ultrasonic.
All jets, o-rings, bowl gasket was changed with new OEM.


I think that some of the passage used from choke system in first start is still cloged or deffective.


Actually that engine had always some cold start issue from its purchase new from honda dealer, but start was not so difficult like now, after all those years.Expecially after it was leaved 2.5 years with gasoline in carb in the garage.


Previews mechanic change the whole choke cable (sting) i don't know why, maybe he think that the choke is damaged.
Then quit attempts to repair the engine.


I meassure the distance between choke valve and the nut and it is 17mm (honda manual says 14mm)
i don't think that is the problem. I tryed to pull a little and reach that 14mm - no difference of choke acting.


I'll be very thankful from any ideas.


compression was checked - 12 i don't remember name KPH or something (both cylinders)
Spark was meassured with tool it jumps at 1cm and more.
Valves are adjusted, timing is perfect.fuel flow is also available, fuel pump spit fuel i check it. If anything of those systems was bad the engine wasn't able to work at all!


I will wait for your answers.
Thanks in advance guys.

Hi BatcatA

Hondadude doesn't post here anymore. I don't know why but I do miss him.

If you don't have the Honda Marine Carburetion manual you probably didn't get this carburetor as clean as it needs to be.

Did you test the accelerator pump nozzle output before reassembling the carb?

Did you replace the jet set low speed emulsion tube? I no longer try to clean them because they crack after a time anyway.

Did you blast out the slow and main air jet passages through the front mount flange of the carb?

Those are all areas the inexperienced and people that haven't read the manual overlook.

As far as the choke goes....it's just a plate that opens or shuts. Actually, you should almost never need to pull it out all the way unless it's freezing cold. Choking the engine too much will actually make starting it harder and will eventually foul the spark plugs.
Every engine is a bit different to use the choke on depending on air temperature, fuel quality and atmospheric pressure. In other words, you have to get a "feel" for what your engine "wants" on any given morning.

Also, referencing the old post above, have you emptied the fuel chamber on your engine? It's the black, round, rubber cylinder attached to the engine oil dipstick tube. It can periodically get filled with water and cause very hard starts. It should be taken off and emptied at least once a season.

I will be happy to try to help you through questions.

If you would open a new thread it might get you more responses as well as maybe help someone else having the same problem.

Hello again.
Jgmo:
I have manual and read it. Unfortunately Honda manuals are not the best one.
Sometimes thay didnt mention something that is important ...

I change all jets with new as i mention, clean twice with carb cleaner, also one time with ultrasonic.
Also that carb doesn't have choke plate. - It is cable with cylinder cap that open and close small jet and the fuel is sucked and squirt direct through passage into manifold.

I found and resolve the problem.
It was very very very almost impossible to explain how clogged passage for choke benzine flow.
Photos will show for what i'm talking about

Well, I will be honest with you and say that your photos didn't do a lot to help me understand what was happening. That is, until the last one.

And, I agree that Honda manuals don't always have what we need....just like every other manual I've ever consulted:>)

Yes, I have never seen that carb. Had you described it up front, I could have surmised that it was enrichment and NOT a choke.

I am also assuming, from your last photo, that the problem was in a restricted circuit from which the enrichment system is fed. This is pretty much identical to the auto enrichment system for the electric start models.

At any rate, it seems that you found the problem and that's all that matters.

Hi there,
Yes manual enrichment cirquit - is the correct name.
Important is that now the engine works better then many more engines that i saw...
Like new!