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230a/SP AQ131 newbie with a few questions

F

F5guy

Contributing Member
To introduce myself I'm new to this forum and boats generally with plenty of mechanical experience on cars and motorcycles.
Backround- picked up the 1993 19' wellcraft excel last year with what owner thought was a blown motor. 2.3 Volvo motor / SP CD outdrive.
Turns out timing belt jumped so I replaced and was off to the races at the end of the season. Boat ran good after adjusting mechanical advance. Temp gauge read hi but came to find out gauge had been replaced and not calibrated so no problems with cooling after all. Knowing nothing of boats I paid someone to winterize and now ready to get going on some maintenance.
Here are my questions.
1. To de-winterize can I just put muffs on and fire up to flush out whatever it was pickled with or is more involved with other steps. I'm assuming winterize get the engine just consists of filling block and sea water system with fluid to avoid corrosion / freezing.
2. marine oil filter and big deal or hype? 2.3 Volvo oil filters are everywhere not sure the difference if any?
3. What outdrive do I have all it says is SP CD (see photo)
4. Manual says to use same oil as engine in outdrive - so no gear oil? Also can I fill from top / dipstick or do I have to pump up?
5. Is there gear oil in the outdrive besides the oil I'lll be exchanging or any other maintenance on it?
6. Seeking part numbers for o rings on drain plug and dipstick?
Your help is much appreciated and looking forward to learning and hopefully contributing here.
 
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F5guy said:
To introduce myself I'm new to this forum and boats generally with plenty of mechanical experience on cars and motorcycles.
Backround- picked up the 1993 19' wellcraft excel last year with what owner thought was a blown motor. 2.3 Volvo motor / SP CD outdrive.
Turns out timing belt jumped so I replaced and was off to the races at the end of the season. Boat ran good after adjusting mechanical advance. Temp gauge read hi but came to find out gauge had been replaced and not calibrated so no problems with cooling after all. Knowing nothing of boats I paid someone to winterize and now ready to get going on some maintenance.
Here are my questions.
1. To de-winterize can I just put muffs on and fire up to flush out whatever it was pickled with or is more involved with other steps. I'm assuming winterize get the engine just consists of filling block and sea water system with fluid to avoid corrosion / freezing.
All Volvo Penta OHC 4's are fitted with Closed Cooling systems. Only the seawater side is drained as part of the winterization process.
During "re-commissioning" you will want to re-install all drain plugs that were removed.

2. marine oil filter and big deal or hype? 2.3 Volvo oil filters are everywhere not sure the difference if any?
A true winterization process involves an oil/filter change. We do not leave contaminated oil in for the winter.
Look at the invoice to confirm.


3. What outdrive do I have all it says is SP CD (see photo)
In 1993, that sounds correct.

4. Manual says to use same oil as engine in outdrive - so no gear oil? Also can I fill from top / dipstick or do I have to pump up?
Engine oil is required.... NOT GEAR OIL!
This drive uses a slinger pump in the lower unit. Heavy gear oil will damage the die cast aluminum slinger pump impeller.
Again, true winterization would have included drive oil change.

5. Is there gear oil in the outdrive besides the oil I'lll be exchanging or any other maintenance on it?
Not understanding this one.

6. Seeking part numbers for o rings on drain plug and dipstick?
Find your model, look up the p/ns, and then purchase your parts from where ever you choose.
http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-schematics-MarineGasolineEngines.aspx
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Ricardo for the response>
Appears I didn't have a true winterization but the seawater side was flushed and filled with coolant to inhibit corrosion.
I'm still not sure how to fill the outdrive with motor oil? Do I have to pump from the bottom like I see on most drives or can I just fill from the dipstick?
Question about any other lubrication for outdrive was for greasing internals or other maintenance besides changing oil?

Many thanks
 
had to order a new starter and fuel pump but still not sure how to fill outdrive with oil. bottom up or just fill from dipstick? thank you
 
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Pull the outside shift linkage cover off the back of the drive. You'll see a large fill plug, 3/8ths hex I believe, on right side of the shift cover, 4 7/16th bolt head, linkage cover. That's the fill for DIY's. No need to pump from the bottom. There is a faster way but I won't get into that with new V/P owners.
 
Thanks so much for answering. I'll do that and install new starter, fuel pump and Racor fuel filter tomorrow and hope she runs. Keep you posted.
 
Starter, fuel pump and fired right up. Drained outdrive and it was full of thick green oil which I'm guessing was Mercruiser High Performance lube. Going to follow manual and fill with motor oil just hope they are comparable and not going to be a problem. I'd spend the bucks for the merc stuff but doesn't seem necessary or called for. You tell me.
 
Drained outdrive and it was full of thick green oil which I'm guessing was Mercruiser High Performance lube.
Click to expand...


With the heavy Merc gear oil, the slinger pump impeller drive pin may have already been sheared off.

Tilt the drive up and pull the shift mechanism off. (you'll need a new O-ring)
Have a helper spin the propeller shaft as fast as he can in either direction.
Look for a raise in the oil level.
If oil movement, the slinger pump is working.
If no oil movement, the slinger pump is likely not working due to a sheared off drive pin.

If so....... the idiot who installed the Merc gear oil owes you!

.

.
 
Added 2.2 quarts of 10w30 and took for a ride with no issues. Drove it 10 times last year with the green stuff so hopefully I dodged a bullet. I'll perform check suggested next week the. drain and fill again. Do you think I should try and flush with some seafoam or something or just keep moving the way I plan. Appreciate all the info.
 
Changed the oil twice ran it last week for 3 hours no problems. Today pulling into a slip realized I had no reverse when I shifted into reverse it just went forward. Couldn't find neutral so ran to a safe spot and shut it down. Would not start turn key and nothing -seemed like I found neutral in between forward and reverse but shifter would not pull/pop out at all. Turn key and nothing -after fooling with it had to jump starter and ignition wire and have my 9 year old aim it. Cruised home and now where to begin?
 
Changed the oil twice because when I drained it it looked like it had merc cruiser gear oil (green)in it and not the motor oil it calls for. I was able to determine the shift cable isn't working since it was in forward and putting in reverse didn't shift it at all upon observation. I was able to manually move it into neutral and reverse. Thing is- in neutral it still won't turn over -like the neutral safety switch is triggered. Also remember the shifter still won't pull out into the mode where you can operate the throttle for warm up either. I'm beginning to think the control it shot but would be equally happy if it was just a cable. Shifter is original and says Excel on the handle. Would one of these work if I replaced the whole thing? http://www.discountmarinesupplies.c...ontrols.html?gclid=CJrR89q9kMYCFZWRHwodzUwArg

Don't want to get ahold of myself and really appreciate any feedback.
 
Thanks for the info I'll try to take apart and replace cables and neutral safety. Can you tell me how you removed the control I can't seem to see how to get it out is it held in from the inside?

kimcrwbr1 said:
I just took my controls apart cleaned and greased them and installed a new neutral switch. I couldnt find a diagram for mine but was pretty straight forward just pay close attention when you take it apart. I bought a ultraflex X12 switch and fits perfect. I believe the switch stayed the same for a wide variety of models.
Click to expand...
 
F5guy, your throttle and shift cables will be the 33C style. If you switch control units, make sure that the one you pick is 33C capable.

Also, as for the neutral safety switch..... it will make continuity when the shift handle is in the neutral position...... regardless of what the drive is doing.
The goal is that both the shift handle and the drive will be in neutral in order for this switch to be closed.
(it is a safety feature to prevent engine cranking while in either gear)

As for the cable at the drive, make dang sure that a FWD shift is a result of an "extended" shift cable at the gear yoke.

Begin with the eccentric piston in neutral.
Work your way forward paying attention to neutral being the primary referrence point, and with any over-travel being equally divided, making sure that the gear yoke does not bottum out in either direction.

When finished adjusting, both the shift lever handle and the eccentric piston should be able to achieve absolute neutral.


.
 
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So the Umax b184 control couldn't have been any easier to install. No cutting required and all wiring matches up. Now I have a new issue that gave me an upset stomach. Since new cables weren't in decided to change oil and realized there was barely any oil in the motor. Reached underneath oil pan and its coated with oil. I'm afraid there is a hole in the pan. Going to scrape and see where it's leaking but think a new on is probably in order. How much work to remove the motor and why else should be changed while its out. Hoping to get back on the water soon without spending a fortune.
 
Found the oil leak on the pan it's right near the drain plug and really small. My brain is working overtime thinking about how to patch. I thought about running a short stubby self tapping screw in the hole and then putting JB weld around it. I'd use job weld by itself if I could get the area totally clean and oil wasn't leaking out. I'm draining it but think there will still be some residue causing it not to stick. I also thought about using JB weld and using a penny as a patch. Any ideas and wether to use JB weld water, steel tube or original 2 part. Thank. It's a pretty small hole
 
If the hole was caused by rust, the material will be too thin to support a self tapping screw.

JB Weld has it's place.... but this is not one of them.
Since this is rather important, the correct fix will be to pull and replace the oil pan.
 
the hole is on a strange place almost up against the drain plug and might have been caused be someone wrenching on it. The surrounding metal doesn't seem rusted or thin and pulling the motor for this would be a ton of work. I'm lookignfornslternate ideas. Plenty of info about there about JB weld and the challenge will be getting area clean and no oil dripping during sealing.
 
You do realize how fluid HOT oil is and how quick 5 quarts of oil can leave through a hole in the pan. I've changed many pans and the time and money spent is WELL worth it.
 
Managed to take a look with a mirror and snap a pic see below. It looks like the pan has been rusting from the drain plug up and the hole was caused by excessive wrenching. You can see a small tear to the right side but the on and metal are pretty solid and intact. I'm going to sand a little and seal with job weld and paint with rustoleum. Wish me luck I'll keep you posted and appreciate the input.
 

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Ran boat in driveway for 10 minutes with no leaks and then out for 3+ hours no leaks appeared. Gonna go over last cost of JB with another one and hope it makes it through the season.
2 more questions
1.this issue I've always had, temp gauge reads 220+ but using infrared thermometer boy runs 180-186 consistently. The gauge was replace by previous owner since I see the old on in a box. Question is can I just grab a t sending unit and replace or does the gauge and sender have to match somehow.
2. Boat had large mercruiser oil filter on it replaced with Sierra which is significantly smaller. What's the skinny on Sierra filters ? On everything else I own I use Ams oil and filters but just trying to get this thin on its feet before I dump any extra cash in it.
Thank yiu.
 
It's a single thanks for the link. I also hope this lasts through the season then I'll pull the motor and change oil pan.
 
Been out 3 times since the JB weld trick and its holding so far. Need to figure out why bilge pump isn't working. I hear it run when I hit the switch but no pumping do you think all that oil down there pre usually messed things up. Any tips are appreciated where to begin.
 
will work on the bilge tomorrow but have another question. I'm wondering what optimum or safe rpms to run is boat goes great at 3k and really love it at 4k just wonder how hard I can safely push it and for how long.
 
So I can't get the photos to load but a new issue popped up today. Terrible grinding/squeal from the water pump pulley area. Belt is loose and I'm assuming tensioner and or pump. When I revved it it went away and made it home with no breakdown. Does this sound right ?
 
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