84 115 evinrude is there a proper wire diagram?

[comet424]

hi
i trying to re plug in and route the wires

and there was a few connections i cant figure out yet

now looking at things the selco book shows this engine doesnt use a regulator just a rectifier

on the max rules site the image similar to this one is one without Tilt trim but uses a seperate rectifier... and in both i dont know if the gray wire is supposed to jump to the postive lead in the terminal block as it has the terminal jumper

and not sure if you can use this engine without a regulator

as my gasket set kit comes with a regulator gasket but heck if i know where that goes....

so my engine is a cross bread on max rules with the Tilt trim and the non tilt trim... i know it says it may vary

is there another page with label colored wires i can double check

and i dont have a yellow gray wire from the stator or on my rectifier they both yellow

if there is another page be great that i can double check these wirings

but id say i cant run it without the regulator and going to see local marine if they have one

[papyson]

[comet424]

ok so they go back to earlier years... so i will need to get a regulator then probably why this engine never ran right... plus i gotta hook up the VRO 2 pump too thats under the with tilt trim wiring well they only show the sensor wire

but thanks i printed it and ill try to follow it. as there is a brown wire i not sure where it goes

thank you

[papyson]

this is as close as i come to what you may have this early in the morning.so it may not be exact but it may help you...you may or may not have the additional regulator plus the rectifier....if you dont have it then the gasket is just an unneeded part of the kit so ignore it...

the yellow wires are ok coming from the stator...some have the yellow/grey and some just have two yellows..

just curious..what got you into this project?

the grey is your tach wire..if you have a rectifier only then it will hook up to the red wire coming from the rectifier...it may be on the same terminal or have a jumper to the terminal next to it on the strip..it dont matter as long as it connects...

you can run the engine without the rectifier..its purpose in life is to charge your battery and feed the tach...

[comet424]

this is as close as i come to what you may have this early in the morning.so it may not be exact but it may help you...you may or may not have the additional regulator plus the rectifier....if you dont have it then the gasket is just an unneeded part of the kit so ignore it...

the yellow wires are ok coming from the stator...some have the yellow/grey and some just have two yellows..

just curious..what got you into this project?

the grey is your tach wire..if you have a rectifier only then it will hook up to the red wire coming from the rectifier...it may be on the same terminal or have a jumper to the terminal next to it on the strip..it dont matter as long as it connects...

you can run the engine without the rectifier..its purpose in life is to charge your battery and feed the tach...

hi thanks for reply

reason for project is i had this engine and when i was on the river trying to get it to the boat launch it had over heated and shut down middle of november so it was snowing raining and getting dark... and you cant row a 20 foot fiberglass boat... what happened was at my friends dock it picked up weeds and the buzzer didnt work i found out so it sucked weeds in,, and people say shoving in reverse blows it out the intake but it doesnt as i told them you cant reverse the motor... i been waiting for 2 months on the plastic filter also from my marine

but i wanted an engine that was good all the engines you see online broken and i dont mind fixing them and re selling just i wanted to do this right for myself... as i looking at a 1979 140 johnson to possibly rebuild.. but if i do going to take lot of pics of where the wiring goes


as for the rectifier, ya thats all i have i dont have the voltage regulator
and is there a link on where the Blue wire from the VRO 2 pump goes? and i guessing the black is the ground and the 3rd is for the VRO sensor and the thermostat sensors to send to the buzzer which i might as well change out to themperature guage sensors but dont think there is one gauge that tells for both heads

[comet424]

you wouldnt happen to know on the top of the engine part of the Hook to lift the engine there is a hole

is that where i could add a Temperature sending unit? or can you only add it to the 2 holes on the head where the buzzer sensors are

as i was thinking wiring those 2 up the buzzer ones and then on the top for a temperature gauge sender

[comet424]

well i looked on the page about that bracket its a water cover plate if i didnt have Tilt and Trim but i do.. so not sure what would go there? it kinda looks like same housing for the voltage Regulator if i had one but if it was how could you lift the engine...

so not sure where the voltage regulator would go on here.. and if i can use that hole for a Temperature Gauge ontop of the 2 buzzers sensors or just take them out and put 2 Gauges temperature..

[papyson]

i would not replace the sensors....they give an immediate alarm if you overheat....you are not going to be constantly observing a temp gauge and a piston goes quick if the motor overheats..

[comet424]

ah ok good thing i got 2 used ones off the spare engine i got as these sensors the OMC dealer can no longer get no more obsolete..


they told me i can use the top hole

problem is i dont have a voltage regulator

[comet424]

do i need a voltage regulator? as they show i can get one that is combo voltage/rectifier

apparently my engine is 3 types of engine parts.... it has just a rectifier no voltage regulator and wired like a 81-82 without a trim

can i run this without a voltage regulator or prob not... and since i cant find just a voltage regulator are they the same the merc ones.. they a 3 Pole voltage regulator as i dont think it matters right?

[papyson]

after rereading the complete thread i have no idea of what you got and what motors you are trying to get running and what motor you are salvaging from...and i dont know if the volatge regulation is compatible or not ....if you have the add on regulator along with a rectifier which is separate on one engine and not the other you are going to have to do some rewiring to make it work....and i have no idea what else you will run into...

we are basically here to assist in problems with a once running engine or to answer specific questions....but to do what you are trying to do and getting remote help is almost impossible for me to do...maybe someone else can step in...

good luck on your project.....

[comet424]

its a 1984 MLRCD 115 hp engine

it was running not the best a couple years ago... and i have reassembled it

the top of the engine is using a Hoist Hook with a cover plate. that means this engine is not a Tilt and Trim Engine
yet its on a Hydraulic Tilt and trim
as if it was a Tilt and Trim it would not have a hoist loop to lift the Engine into the air but replaced with a Voltage Regulator/Rectifier


this engine has the regular Rectifier the 3 wire which is for engines that dont have a Tilt and trim. and this engine never had a Voltage Regulator.... nore can you buy it seperate.... yet on the diagram page it shows a Rectifier and a Voltage Regulator/Rectifier but not a plain Regulator...

the OMC Machine shop figured its multiple parts since the wiring Doesnt match right

Since a VRO pump is wired with a Voltage Regulator/Rectifier.... and not wired with a 2 Unit Voltage Regulator & Rectifier as 2 seperate units.....


this is what i should have
http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc.../84_V4_TNT.jpg


this is what i have

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-for...1&d=1431518359

minus the voltage regulator

but the housing of the engine is 84 i guess as it has recirclating fuel hoses like behind the Throttle Level on the engine

hope that helps

[comet424]

i rebuilt the engine as it overheated on the middle of the river and siezed up on me drifiting middle of november in snow and rain

and i using parts off a 1979 115 for the crank shaft piston rods bearings exhaust housing some other parts

[comet424]

just looked at the 79 115 that i took the the parts off of also

looking at parts page it doesnt use a voltage regulator at all... so guess you can run engine without the use of a voltage regulator then

[comet424]

i contacted outboard ignition website and they said i can use the mercy 200hp voltage regulator on this engine as it can handle a 16 amp stator they said