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Need help....Keep getting a "1" on mil light

I just swapped ecm with my counter rotation and still getting same code...HELP! This is driving me nuts trying to trouble shoot this.
 
Now I've cleaned all four ground terminals on engine block and ground on battery, also cleaned O2 sensor..still having issues...any other ideas?
 
I replaced low pressure pump with new one 2 years ago. I did crank motor and it seems to pump fuel just fine. Yesterday I had motor running on hose and I unplugged spark plug coils one by one, seeing if I could isolate a coil, plug or cylinder. All coils are good,but I did notice that when I removed #6 the engine miss is very suttle, unlike any when I unplug any of the others. The number #6 was firing, but seemed weak. I swapped #6 coil and plug and got same results. The plug had a lot of unburnt fuel of it. So is my compression the cause of this? Or is the wiring to the coil the issue? Is there a way to test coil wiring? Here are my compression numbers
Cyl #1 194
#2 208
#3 194
#4 198
#5 204
#6 173

Once again, on the water it runs great and I can run 5500 rpms and it idles good and won't turn off (unlike before I replaced O2 sensor). But the check engine light comes on and I get a beep....beep...beep....
 
Ok, now I have swapped air temp sensor, O2 sensor, wire harness where keys are, checked water separator with continuity meter and seems to work appropriate..I'm at a loss and need some input on this..any help is appreciated
 
Believe it or not, I did the decarb and the numbers shot up, but the #6 stayed at 159, so I did what was recommended and tilted motor up, removed spark plug and put a very concentrated sea foam mix into piston #6.. I then got 173...maybe I should do it again..but do you think a 12% difference would cause it
 
This is getting crazy! I understand your frustration, Skooter.

OK on Kim's procedure. I would certainly try doing that. But even if the compression is low, I'm not sure what is making the alarm go off. Just low compression in one cylinder should not trigger the alarm.

SO, let's back up a minute. I've gone back and reviewed all 46 posts and there certainly is not much left to try. You have eliminated about every obvious thing from the HO2 sensor, to plugs, coils, HP fuel pump, VST, HP filter and so on.

You said that you are still getting an alarm and the MIL light is coming on, but are you still getting a Code "1"?

How is the engine running otherwise? Still a rough idle? Any performance issues at speed (except for the alarm?)

At one time you said that the #6 plug was carboned up a bit and seemed wet. Is that still happening? If so, have you checked the #6 injector?

Final thought - at this point we are all guessing. Maybe if you can get someone with Dr. H to hook up and do an analysis, maybe it will help pinpoint the problem.
 
Thanks for the responses, I truly value any help..
kimcrwbr1--I'm pretty sure a leak down will result in rings as the culprit due to the lower compression, but i can deal with that, cuz it run great still. My heads were completely re-done with all new valves and seals about 70 hrs ago at a professional shop that do the boat work down here. My concern is the check engine light.

Chawk-Yes, I am still getting a "1", engine idles great on the water and runs better than I have ever seen it run. On the hose, it's a little rough on idle, but doesnt turn off...no doubt in the beginning the O2 sensor was bad..My fuel mileage increased dramatically. The #6 is still carboned and wet. So either I have an injector that is throwing a whole lot of fuel,more than #6 can burn, or I have a really weak spark coming from the wire harness to the #6. I know its not the coil or plug, cuz I have swapped them. I do have a complete "used" wire harness from a 225, which I believe is the same as my 200. I'd hate to pull my complete harness off, but that may be my last option..

Here is a recap of what I have done, if I am missing anything, please chime in.

SB #56-new exhaust tubes
O2 sensor-old syle with old ecm
Inspected O2 sensor connection
Midshaft bearing
H20 pump kit
Adjusted cylinder head valves, all were within spec-both heads rebuilt 60 hrs ago, all new valves/seals
New HP Fuel pump
New VST strainer and HP Filter
New Fuel Filter and O-ring
Checked water separator with continuity meter and working properly (no water)
Check Low Pressure Fuel pump for proper function-2 years old
Cleaned and inspect 4 ground terminals and battery terminals
Swapped ignition coils with my counter rot. engine
Swapped ECM with my counter rot. engine
Changed IAC
Changed Air Temp Sensor
Swapped harness where ignition keys are (thought I had a “bad” panel)
Checked butterfly and vacuum solenoid on Vtec
Vacuum lines properly routed
New Iridium Plugs
Checked alternator connections and charging at 14 volts
Decarbed engine
Ran engine in dark, no sign of spark or shorted wiring

Compression Checked as follows after decarb
Cyl #1 194
#2 208
#3 194
#4 198
#5 204
#6 173
Changed oil and filter

Is there a way for me to check the voltage coming out of the coil wire harness?
 
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The only thing I can see that you have not checked/tested is the fuel injector on #6.

Again, if you can get Dr. H connected to your system, it will quickly tell you if you have a faulty injector.


I'm not sure if you can get to those injectors with a probe (i.e. a long skinny screw driver or mechanic's stethoscope.) But if you can, and can get the blade on to the metal jacket on the injector and the handle up to your ear, you should hear a steady tick, tick, tick as the engine is idling. Compare to one of the other injectors to see if they sound the same. If no ticking, you could have a bad injector or a bad wire in the harness to the injector.

Starting on Page 5-63 of the Helm Shop Manual there is a testing procedure for the injectors. Unfortunately, it is based on use of the outdated Honda test harness. The Honda Tech's on this forum probably have a good procedure for checking those injectors. I do not.
 
I just called 2 of the local honda service shops and they do not have HDS! They told me they pulled codes the way I do and they would go down the line eliminating stuff...at $80 and hour....Where can I get Dr. H software?
 
Skooter - I replied to your e-mail. Go to www.brpdiagnostics.com. They sell Dr. H. It's $395.00. It requires a laptop with Windows XP, Vista, or Windows 7, and a USB port. You will also need to have the laptop enable a Internet connection to download the specific model year software and updates. It's an Aussie outfit, but apparently have a distributor in the US.

Another guy on this forum purchased it and reported being very pleased with the results. I downloaded the user manual and read through it. The system seems very good and very detailed. Thinking about buying one myself, but have not had any issues with my 225 to justify it.
 
I have good consistent blue spark. I checked voltage to #6 injector and have 12.3 volts, it is consistent with the others. I pulled injector on #6 and swapped with a spare injector that I have and still having issues with the code "1". I may switch engine harness this weekend to eliminate the harness as a culprit, other than that I can't figure this out and my honda dealers dont have HDS!
 
I have noticed that when I start up engine it runs smooth, then after a few minutes the engine lightly sputters and check engine and a beep comes on every second...maybe someone has had this problem before?
 
The beep and check engine light is simply indicating that there is a fault in your programmed fuel injection system.

You have swapped or eliminated everything I can think of except for the wiring harness itself that fires the injectors.

As was recommended, a leak down test will tell you the state of the number 6 cylinder, which we know is weak from your compression test.
 
I'm thinking of soaking #6 again in a sea foam mixture to see if compression would increase a little more. Then as a last resort swap entire engine harness. Otherwise, Im just going to "deal" with the beep..and hopefully when I get the HDS it may help me pinpoint further.
 
Okay I made some headway on my problem. As you know, I have swapped and replaced a ton of things on my outboard and including the wiring harness. My hds had several parameters that were out of spec and all point to a rich fuel problem. The one thing I hadn't checked was the fuel pressure, partly because I had a brand new HP pump and new filters and the low pressure pump and regulator are 2.5 years old. I bought a fuel pressure gauge from harborfreight and my fuel pressure was 90 psi, the helm says 41-48 psi. I had a used regulator and swapped it and now have 65 psi. I saw in the shop manual that there is a screen on the fuel rail under the fuel pressure regualtor..So I removed regulator and cleaned screen with carb cleaner and now have 32 psi...lol..now it's low..I also noticed that the fuel filter bowl on the engine was only about 1/3 full, I squeezed the primer bulb and it filled, but didn't raise fuel pressure. After a little while fuel bowl went back down to 1/3...I'm going to changed fuel regulator, I think that may get me to 40 psi, but what is my issue with low fuel in bowl? BTW I am no longer getting a "1" or check engine light :) I hope this helps someone
 
I assume you are talking about the bowl on the LP fuel filter. It's hard to tell what is causing the low fuel level in the LP filter bowl. It could be a bunch of things. Normally, it should stay full.

The first thing I would check is whether you are sucking air into the fuel line upstream from the LP filter. Splicing in a section of clear plastic hose between the onboard fuel/water separator and the LP fuel filter will tell you whether or not that is happening.

If not that, then I would go back to the fuel pressure regulator and check it. Especially check the vacuum line.
 
Okay I made some headway on my problem. As you know, I have swapped and replaced a ton of things on my outboard and including the wiring harness. My hds had several parameters that were out of spec and all point to a rich fuel problem. The one thing I hadn't checked was the fuel pressure, partly because I had a brand new HP pump and new filters and the low pressure pump and regulator are 2.5 years old. I bought a fuel pressure gauge from harborfreight and my fuel pressure was 90 psi, the helm says 41-48 psi. I had a used regulator and swapped it and now have 65 psi. I saw in the shop manual that there is a screen on the fuel rail under the fuel pressure regualtor..So I removed regulator and cleaned screen with carb cleaner and now have 32 psi...lol..now it's low..I also noticed that the fuel filter bowl on the engine was only about 1/3 full, I squeezed the primer bulb and it filled, but didn't raise fuel pressure. After a little while fuel bowl went back down to 1/3...I'm going to changed fuel regulator, I think that may get me to 40 psi, but what is my issue with low fuel in bowl? BTW I am no longer getting a "1" or check engine light :) I hope this helps someone

Skooter before you cleaned your pressure regulator screen. What did it look like? Mine did not appear to be clogged or dirty. And I did not have Carb Cleaner at the time so I just put it back.
 
Mine looked clean..I didn't pull it out of fuel rail, but was able to see it with flashlight and mirror, but I went ahead and have it a couple of shots of carb cleaner
 
Skooter,

Were you able to splice your hose and find your leak? I have same issue there too, I'll try to splice my clear tube between LP Fuel filter and fuel/water check bowl tomorrow.

Also, I spoke to my Honda Shop guy about the fuel pressure spec of 41~48 psi. He said that he's had motors with the fuel pressures down to ~30 psi and they ran fine, granted I don't believe they had any LP fuel filter bowl capacity issues.

Yes, the LP fuel filter bowl..ok, I will check that today. Thanks!
 
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