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Need help....Keep getting a "1" on mil light

S

Skooter

Advanced Contributor
So prior,i was getting a "1" on my bf200 2003 model and I checked all coils and was getting spark in each one and plug, so I then i replaced o2 sensor with a oem brand new one and still getting codes. It idles rough.....I swapped IAC with counter rot motor and still had problem...help please..i want to get it ready for snapper season.
 
Did you clear the codes on the ECM prior to retesting?

When was the last time you changed plugs? A bad plug (even one that misfires occasionally), or a failing coil will also throw off a code "1".

Below is the procedure for clearing codes posted by Hondadude several years ago:

Essentially, to clear the codes, you operate the kill switch 5 times with the shunt (shorting device, or paper clip) in place and within 20 seconds of the key switch being on.
I recommend grabbing the safety lanyard very close to the switch that it is attached to so you can pull it to off and push it to on without losing the lanyard.
• Connect the shunting device (technical term for paper clip.)
• Turn on the key switch.
• Pull the safety switch to off, then push to on, then pull to off, then push to on, then pull to off, then push to on, then pull to off, then push to on, then pull to off. That should be five times off and on and off within 20 seconds from when you turn the key switch to on. When you get to the fifth time off...you should hear one or two beeps. The codes are clear. If you did not hear the beeps, try again.
• Turn the key switch off
Remove the shunting device and run the engine. Then check for codes again. If all is clear, you may just have had a onetime occurrence. If you do have codes, you will just have to troubleshoot depending on the code number that you get.
 
yes,I did clear codes when I changed O2 sensor..plugs have less than 30 hours on them, I also made sure butterfly flaps and vacuum holding on the vtec....I guess my next move would be to swap all coils with counter for motor and run it..??? Or what do you recommend?
 
Well, I would first make sure that the HO2 sensor is "good." There is a procedure in the shop manual for testing that. It starts on page 5-26 of the Helm manual. It is possible that you have a bad wire or connection to the HO2 sensor. I think that the procedure on 5-26 will help you check for that also.

I would also invest in a new set of plugs. If that proves to not be the problem, at least you have a backup set for the next change out. Then I would go after the coils, one at a time. That will be tedious because you will need to test for an error code after each swap, then clear the code, unless you want to invest in a whole new set of coils, which would be quite pricy, and it's still just a guess.
 
Ok,I will check O2 like book explains and if it is good, then I am going to swap all coils and plugs with my "good" motor, then I can back track one by one if it's running good..yesterday it started good and ran great, but after about 10 times of me throttling up and down it started to mess up
 
What exactly was the "messing up?"

I've never seen a coil fail intermittently, but I guess that could happen.

Just remember, just because a spark plug is new, or nearly new, it doesn't mean it can't fail early on. Before fooling around with the coils, I would pull the plugs and see if one of them is sooted up.
 
UPDATE

I pulled all plugs out of "bad" outboard which is giving me a "1" code, I replaced with new O2 sensor and it still gave me codes, here is what plugs look like. All 6 were like this..I know one is missing from pic.
 
20150510_171901.jpg ok, file was too big.

So then I swapped out all plugs and coils with my good motor. My good (port side) motor still ran good. So then I ran my starboard (bad-code "1") motor and it still ran like crap. I ran it for 4-5 minutes and all plugs came out with no carbon on them except for the left bottom plug..20150510_180922 (1).jpg

I ran compression check
and if looking at back of motor, readings are as follows
top left 160,171, 150 (bottom left)

top right 170, 170, 150 (bottom right)
 
That's low compression across the board, and the two lower cylinders are really low and more than 10" from the highest. Did you do the compression test with a completely charged battery and throttle wide open, all plugs removed?

Have your engines had the replacement exhaust tubes installed as specified in Service Bulletin #56?

If so, my first inclination would be to decarbon the engine using a strong mixture (4:1) of Sea Foam or Yamalube Ring Free to clean out the carbon from the valves and rings. You will need to do an oil changed after decarbonizing. Then check compression again. Each cylinder should be at least around 200 psi.
 
Not the news I wanted to hear..I checked compression with plugs on and throttle at idle...maybe it could make a difference??? I just replaced exhaust tubes and pan gasket....darn!!!! Could it be that the valves need adjusting? This is the same motor I had to rebuild both heads because the timing pulley came off at 5400 rpm and I had to replace all 24-valves...Thanks again for responding
 
YES! If the other plugs were in and throttle was not wide open, then you did not get an accurate compression reading. Do it correctly and let us know the results. Each cylinder should be over 200 psi and the lowest reading should not be more than 10% different from the highest reading.
 
Ok,I got new readings
171 top left
179
159 bottom left

180 top right
172 mid
172 bottom right

Just for kicks I got readings on my counter rotation, it runs like a top.the readings are 184,186,181,183,185,185 ..even under 200 it rubs like a champ, idles very nice and had good response
 
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yes,I put all new stem seals, new valves and had a machine shop do the head work..they do the heads for the local boat dealers. No excess oil consumption, in fact it doesn't use any..I'm just wondering if I need to go back and adjust valves. Engine has approx 775 total hours and about 60 since heads got rebuilt..I've never done a decarb job, but chawk mentioned sea foam..is that the sea foam in the local auto parts store? He mentioned 4:1, so is that 4 parts fuel to 1 parts sea foam...? So how many gallons of fuel do I need to burn thru that motor during decarb and is it idle only or revving it up?
 
Yes - re-adjust the valves first!

Generally, I don't think the Sea Foam spray is as effective in decarbonizing, but in this case it would likely do the job. If you go with the standard procedure, use an auxiliary portable tank, mix 4 parts fuel to 1 part Sea Foam. Run engine until fuel is circulated throughout the system and exhaust starts to smoke, then shut it down. Wait for AT LEAST 30 minutes, then restart on regular fuel and run until smoke clears. (Disclaimer: I've never had to do this on my Honda 225, but used this technique to restore several old 2-stroke engines. Also, it would be a good idea to drain your VST before de-carbonizing in order to get the mixture into the engine faster. The VST tank holds about a pint of fuel.)

If you get a lot of crude coming out of the exhaust, you might want to consider a second treatment.

After adjusting valves and decarbonizing. Run your compression test again.

In either case, change the oil after de-carbonizing.
 
Chawk has some good advice.
I doubt if decarbonizing will affect the valve clearances since it has only done 60 hrs since the heads were rebuilt, but it might improve the compressions by cleaning carbon from the pistons & rings. So worth a try.
But if decarbonizing was to alter the valve clearances by removing carbon from the valve seats & under the valve heads, it makes sense to adjust the valves after the decarbonizing & before the compression test.

Bob
 
I adjusted valves yesterday, none seemed to be out of spec. I will decarb today and keep you posted. Kimcrwbr1, I'm with you on this, it doesnt make sense why all cylinders are running rich.. I've even contemplated switching ECMs with counter motor.
 
I decarbed with sea foam 4:1 ratio and let sit over night..today I ran with ear muffs for 20 . Minutes throttling up and down at least 20 times and it idled well and didn't turn off as it previously would..I cleared codes and ran it again in dark looking for a possible short in coils or wiring, but didn't find anything..definitely running better cuz it's not dying on me...the true test will be when I can run it out on water..im waiting for new spark plugs to arrive..so did I have a bad injector? What are your thoughts?
 
Ok, so I've decarbed, put new O2 sensor, new plugs, changed oil and today I ran out and after an hour at 4000 rpm, twenty minutes later idling the beep came on again..any ideas?
 
Pull the codes from the ECU again and let us know what codes you have.

You never answered my earlier question of whether or not you have replaced the exhaust tubes IAW Service Bulletin # 56.
 
Skooter said:
Here's a thread that I started a while back http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?423660-O2-sensor-problem

When I come back to neutral after revving, engine dies
Click to expand...

Sorry Chawk,I assumed you read my other thread. Yes, I did SB 56. I did pull codes and still getting "1". The engine runs great, but for some reason it's giving me the beep with check engine light. I think I am going to pull VST and clean it out and change filter. Is there another sensor that could possibly give me this code?
 
According to the Helm shop manual, a code "1" can be thrown by a bad HO2 sensor, a bad (misfiring) spark plug, a bad coil, or the wiring from the HO2 sensor to the ECM - either grounded or disconnected.

The reference is to page 5-26 of the Helm Shop Manual. As I read down through the troubleshooting procedure, it seems to imply that low fuel pressure can also be a cause.
 
Follow up - low fuel pressure could be caused by a dirty or collapsed HP fuel filter or by the screen under the filter.
 
I can eliminate the O2 sensor and plugs,, those are brand new. I have tested all the coils and all produce good spark. I will trace wiring and check connections for O2 sensor to make sure they are grounded. I'm going to replace HP filter, screen and clean VST, its been 2 years since I've had it done.
 
I pulled out VST and opened it up, it was exceptionally clean with no debris on the bottom of tank. I pulled HP pump and screen also, there was very minor debris on screen. Float and needle are properly working. I put it all back together and replaced with new HP filter and guess what.....I couldn't get boat started...I was getting power to HP pump and could hear it turn on, but it was not pumping. Low pressure pump was working. I pulled VST again and removed HP pump, submerged it in gasoiline and it would turn on, but not pump thru it's outlet. So my question is...When I put back VST, the tank was empty and I solely relied on the LP pump to fill it (and it did), but do you think I might have burned out the HP pump in that short time? HP pump is 2.5 years old. I have a new one on order already, but don't want to burn that out either..
 
Update:

I've put a new HP fuel pump in VST, new screen, new HP filter...like I mentioned before VST was exceptionally clean. I fired up outboard it ran good on the water hose and about 5 min into idling the check engine light came on. I checked codes and I'm a little confused if it's a "1" or an "11" code. Please chime in on any ideas. Here's the video.
 
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