84 115 evinrude piston ring install.. which way does the 1 ring go?

hi

i have just finished installing brand new wrist pin bearings into the new piston heads.. i have 2 20 and 2 40

now when i was going to install rings the fat ring has a tapered side.. which direction does it go facing up or facing down



and i have the slop of the pistons facing to the center of the engine and the hole in the piston rods facing up

The tapered side always faces up.........

ok thank you very much

what is the purpose of the tapered side if you know? figured they all be flat

oh and you wouldnt know what the the piston rod bolts tighten to? i got told 400 inch pounds the machine shop guy guessed so thats like 33 foot pounds

but what would be the 4 center housing bolts. and the outside and also the 4 bolts with the rubber seal... as i dont wanna take this apart bad enough this was a bad engine was from the usa was in salt water so this has been a nightmare to fix

I don't have any torque specs here but the taper goes up so compression pushes it out towards the cylinder wall.

if you find the torq specs maybe you can let me know my book doesnt help selco book yes i know crappy tells me to look on the torq page but that doesnt help when the bolts dont match the book


and ok are all outboards use a taper ring

Some do and some don't. Depends on the model and horsepower.

oh ok well good to know

i guess how it works is the compression pushes on the taper and pushes it outwards to keep it tight

You can only put the top ring on the correct way.-----It simply will not fit with the taper down !!

It's not a wise move to be rebuilding that powerhead without a factory service manual to guide you through various procedures.

However, look closely at the piston ring grooves sideways and you'll see that the top groove is beveled to accept that top ring only one way.

The connecting rod torque is 29 to 31 foot pounds.... head bolts 18 to 20 foot pounds

Ah ok ya the omc machine shop guessedd

conrad screes 400 inc lbs
1/4-20. 109 inc lbs
5/16. 240 inc lbs

3/8" 320 inch pounds

But they didnt say anything about those four bolts with the rubber seals if needs threadd sealant or loctite

But thqnk you so far

It is frustratijg when book tells u check torqu page has no conrod screws. And tells I torqs for different grades. But the bolts them selves do not show an signs what grade they are

???--------To me you are going about this like a " blind squirell looking for an acorn " -----eventually you will find one !------------Run and get a factory manual because I believe you are about to make expensive mistakes on this project.------And sorry for being blunt on this matter.-

racerone said:

???--------To me you are going about this like a " blind squirell looking for an acorn " -----eventually you will find one !------------Run and get a factory manual because I believe you are about to make expensive mistakes on this project.------And sorry for being blunt on this matter.-

Click to expand...

how i blind

if you look at the bolts none of them are with 1 2 or 3 tick marks there are none with double numbers

so there is no way to tell if its grade 1 -5 bolts

none of them state what the bolt is actually is

from what i guess then all the bolts on this engine are Grade 1 or 2... as a grade 1 or 2 has no markings

and these bolts have no markings just a set of like 8 digits.


it isnt possible to get a book here. i have to order one from the states takes a couple weeks.

the OMC machine shop like i said
stated
conrad screes 400 inc lbs
1/4-20. 109 inc lbs
5/16. 240 inc lbs

3/8" 320 inch pounds

so thats all i got going on..

i not blind

all i asked for is the right Foot Lbs for the bolts

and i not buying new 4 bolts with special telfon on it at over 10 bucks a bolt when i can put my own telfon and rubber seal on

Do Not acquire an attitude! It does not help anything!

I gave you the foot pound reading for the connecting rod bolts... do not be coating those bolts with anything, just make sure they're absolutely clean.

I also gave you the foot pound reading for the head bolts. Simply apply a little grease on the threads of these bolts.

What other torque readings do you need? DO NOT be guessing OR accepting someone else's guess at bolt torques on critical retainers. Too loose and the bolt will back out... too tight and it will shear. It must be exact!

I'm aware that in some areas of the world, obtaining a service manual or some other brochure may take weeks to receive... BUT... if you have plans to keep that engine for a couple years or so, I suggest you order one.

well just frustrating just going off the OMC mechanics guessing and such and trying to read the book as then all the bolts on this engine are grade 1 or 2.. since none of them have a 3 4 tick marks just bunch of numbers so thats where i getting confused

oh ok well i tightened the connecting rods to half way between 30 -35 and i put locktie on them ill take it off and wipe off the blue loctite then

and the outside of the housing that bolt down they also dont have any marks on the bolts... i have also bolts with the Letter H or a P in the center

and on the bottom there is 4 screws with rubber book talks about havign telfon bolts i guess. but what abotu just locktite? and how tight are those and then the 8 bolts around it?

and i wasnt trying to do an attitude but figure even if i got an OMC book it wont tell me what these actual bolts that are in this engine are since there is no markings so then they be only 5 pounds then right ? all the bolts on this engine?

an i dont know if i keeping engine this is so badly used in salt water the mid section cant be takened apart those 2 bolts that hold the swivel arm to the exhaust plate... the omc mechanic said it is possible to remove the trim without needing to remove those 2 bolts and switch it with the 79 exhaust but he wasnt sure as he usually gets the 2 bolts loose.. as heat would not loosen the one bolt badly eaten from salt

oh and reason i had put the locktite on the connecting rods is only because when i work on a diesel engine i have to put lockite on those... but i took them out and wiped them off

so i cleaned off and i tightend them to 30 foot pounds

oh and the machine shop sold me the small little tube of there slealant to bond the 2 halves together.. is that big enough to do both sides like they said? as its a small tube.. same size those small squeeze tubes are for loctite 10 bucks for that little tube but they say it should cover both sides

I've been in this in this work with OMC since 1960, retiring in 1991, and not once have I bothered with the grade of bolts/screws or their markings.... don't get hung up with that stuff! The connecting rod torque is 29-31 foot pounds. If you torqued any of them over 31 foot pounds, you could very well be looking forward to having one shear!

The 4 bolts with O Rings... just apply a little gasket sealer to the O Rings. Torque 96-120 Inch lbs, (8-10 foot lbs).

The 8 bolts retaining the lower crankcase head... 1/4x20 std bolts. Torque 60-84 inch lbs, (5-7 foot lbs)

The 6 larger bolts that attach the front crankcase to the rear crankcase (both allen and hex head) Torque 18-20 foot lbs.

DO NOT be applying Loc-Tite to any powerhead bolts... you'll be wanting to remove them someday!

ah ok.. thanks ya this guy i was dealing with the father hes i guess in his late 60s 70s the son that also runs it wasnt there

and which gasket sealer i have different ones.. also have hte permatex thread sealer with PTE and i also have used Pro Dope sealant thats for gas propane natural gas water oils etc.

and question how come these things dont need lock washer how dont they come apart when you use lock washers on everything else

and thanks.. like the selco book for the chrsyler engine i have is better detailed then this one...

i using my fathers analog ft pound torq bar with the moving needle... so i just lined it up to 30

and i guess the top bolts fo the bearing thats also 5-7 pounds

now i just gotta figure how to get the trim off this mid housing and replace it with the other housing

its much nicer when the engine never been in salt... i not sure how you guys get the bolts loose

machine shop said he probably put it under the milling maching and chew the 9/16 bolts off to get it apart...

i even chewed up that piece of plastic thermostate holder didtn know it was plastic thought it was metal when trying to seperate it with a screw driver and chisel..... hes like you wouldnt have know but luckly the 79 came off easilly with a couple taps with hammer...

ill work on it later today or tommorow then

and i didnt know you dotn put loctite on these connecting rods as for the diesels i worked on you gotta tighten to 100 foot pounds and have blue loctite on guess its just harder on torque then speed

Connecting rod bolts are dipped in OIL before installing them.------------And the connectiong rod caps must be carefully lined up.----You can not install the cap and bolts and just torque them up !!!!!

Ah ok ill oil the conrod bolts then tighten. And ya I line them up just using handle style screww driver with the bit on end and I line up the break. Marks so they proper seated then I switch it to the torq bar

Thanks for all advices and help so far

Oh are the head bolts 20 25 foot poundsfor headgaskets

And for sealing the two halves together. Is that 6ml tube of evinrude gel seal enough
If not whats equavialnt.as I used pereametex moto seal on my Chrysler outboard with spaghetti seal. As its for motor cycle watercraft etc for sealing crank cases etc together

(Gasket Sealers)
(Usually available at any reliable automotive parts type store)
(J. Reeves)


Do Not use any type of sealer on outboard carburetor or intake manifold gaskets as this would cause blockage of various fuel/air passageways. Also, there are new type gaskets, including head gaskets, which are used through out the engines that are coated with a substance that gives a shinny appearance to them. These gaskets are coated with a self sealer and are to be installed as is.... no sealers! Older style head and fuel related gaskets that are not coated with this substance are to be simply coated with oil.... nothing else.

All other gaskets (hopefully I've not overlooked anything above) should be coated with Gasket Sealer (the type that comes in a can that has a small brush in its screw off cap). This also pertains to some water pump installations that use a gasket between the plate and the lower unit housing.

Marprox Sealer 1000 or OMC Adhesive or Boat Armor Sealer 1000 (same substance)[See Below Note] should be used on any metal to metal (Unless GelSeal Is Called For) or metal to plastic surface (such as impeller hsg to plate, and plate to lower unit surface) to eliminate air leaks. It should also be used on the Spaghetti tubing that is used on many powerhead crankcase halves, lower unit skegs, etc. I have found that this substance works quite well on various "O" Rings such as what are found on lower unit carrier and upper driveshaft bearing housings (Note that this substance is obviously not to be used on all "O" Rings). This substance also works quite well in sealing the surfaces between the lower unit and the exhaust housing to which it attaches, eliminating the unsightly water spray between the two after completing a water pump installation.

NOTE 1: I am under the impression that Marprox Sealer 1000 and Boat Armor Sealer 1000 is no longer available.

NOTE 2: OMC Adhesive is now Bombardier 3M Product #847 .

DO NOT use any sealer on the large "O" Rings that are used on the upper and lower crankcase heads (The housing/heads that slide over the top and bottom of the crankshaft). On those "O" Rings, use only a coating of grease.

The exception of surface to surface contacts pertains to the later model matching crankcase (block) halves (which does not incorporate spaghetti tubing) which call for "Gel-Seal", or any other surface that calls for Gel-Seal. This substance seals in the absence of air, and if called for, must be used. One other form of Gel Seal that can be substituted is "Loctite #518". Nothing else that I know of will do!


I advise against using silicone or permatex on a outboard engine. It simply will not function properly. The exception to this (as per OMC's recommendation), is to use the black Permatex (heavily) on the gasket 306242 which seperates the inner exhaust tube from the exhaust housing on the 1959 35hp and 1960 to 1970 40hp OMC outboards.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1

The 6 ml tube is more than plenty.----You use a 1/16" ( 1 .5 mm ) diameter bead and most of that should squeeze out.------This is a PRECISION JOINT and meticulous preparation is required.----No bumps , burrs or old sealant is allowed here.------------If not done properly you risk poor clamp-up of the bearings.

racerone said:

The 6 ml tube is more than plenty.----You use a 1/16" ( 1 .5 mm ) diameter bead and most of that should squeeze out.------This is a PRECISION JOINT and meticulous preparation is required.----No bumps , burrs or old sealant is allowed here.------------If not done properly you risk poor clamp-up of the bearings.

Click to expand...

ah ok do you put it on both halves?
and ya i got it all cleaned off washed with brake cleaner
i also have the permeatex anareobic stuff which is the same as loctite 518

and do i put some thread sealant on the 4 inside bolts?

as i use the masters pro dope pipe thread sealant as its a ptfe and resistances oil and gasonline etc


ill do this later today then

oh and what gasket sealer do you add to the 4 o rings? joe mentioned in ealier post.. and what is the torq for the head bolts once i put the headgasket on