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76 Chrysler Charger 115hp what rpms charges the battery?

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comet424

Regular Contributor
hi i like to know what is the RPMS needed to charge the battery

i currently at 500 rpm get 12.27 at 1000 rpm i was getting 12.30 v

is that right or shouldnt i getting more at 1000 and is there something i can fix or adjust etc to get it to charge more

i cant test it more at moment as i just have the outboard in a water box with a garden hose but cant go faster then 1000rpm it sprays the water out too fast
 
it is putting out more than the battery so its probably charging some..when you first start an engine it will read low for a minute or more while the battery catches up...another factor is the over all condition of the battery and state of charge...to get an accurate reading on your charging system you should start off with a fully charged battery..the battery should read 12.7 with the charger removed and hold that voltage overnight...if a battery is pulling a lot of charging current it will make the charging off the outboard read low...

as far as i know there is no adjustment on that system...you are not going to see a lot of charging at 1k rpm..
 
ah ok what RPM then do you see signiciant charging like your 13 volts like a car alternator 13 14 volts or do they even go that high on an outboard?

as for battery it was idling for about 20 min to warm it up just got it out of being winterized so i let it run and thats what i was getting


as battery its not even a year old but i was using it in winter time for my tractor so that might warn it out some


and another thing is it too stressful for this engine i added last year a minikota onboard 2 battery charger so it will charge my deep cycle battery for my minikota trolling motor
 
After charging. Take a reading.
Write that down.
Start the motor. Take a reading.
Write it down.
Then it needs to get revved past 2000/2500.
Take a reading at 2000.
Write it down.
Then let it come back to idle.
Take a reading.
Write it down.
Shut it off.
Take a reading.
Write it down.
Please be precise on the readings. A 1/4 of a volt can mean a charging /system/battery or not.
Post your readings.
Sometimes?? The reading/charging might only be 1/2 a volt more than it was not running.
Sometimes it can be 14-15V depending on your system??

If you think it's not charging? Go to outboard Ignition . com and check their troubleshooting section for Chrysler/ Force.
 
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ah ok well i unplugged the charger it was charging 13.xx volts i forgot the xx volts i took a reading and watched it drop slowly last i checked was 12.93 volts but its dark now here i check tommorow it supposed to rain

and so you need at least 2000/2500 rpms ya ill have to wait till i get some help cant do that in my box it blows the water right out lol ill have to find someone in a week or so to test it in the river.... also my trailer floats so i cant really get my boat back on my trailer without someone heavy lol go figure eh
 
i have 2 ear muffs but they will not slide up over the intake on this chrsyler as the intake is on the round part so i can for the bars that far and get it up there reason i built the box... dont know why they made it that way

but maybe ill try to run at 2000 in the box if ony for a few seconds
 
well i broke it ugh i drilled bit deeper to match the other 2 holes depths

but after trying to use a easy out and a bit extractor

she caugh the side of the housing and broke it so let me guess im screwed now right
 

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A good 12 volt battery actually reads 12.4 volts.-------So if when running at a 1000 RPM and you get 12.3 you have charging system problems.
 
sorry for above post i working on 2 engines and i broke a part off

as for the charging ill check later today before it starts to rain and ill let you know
 
hi so i tested it i guess it is working

i tested the battery before i started it was at 12.73

i started engine, let it run for 15 min and it was at 13.25 13.26 at 500rpms

i forgot what it was at 1000rpm i didnt have paper to write down sorry

and i tried to get it up to 2000 but it really wouldnt let me get past 1400 rpms that safety idle switch in the controler so it doesnt engaged prop

but i did notice the engine while idlying would go from 1000rpm to 12-1400 rpms but come back down once and a while is that normal or is that something wrong

havent really tested in water since i refixed the carbs the adjustments the timing after i rebuilt the engine. got it used not working right and i fixed it all up
 
If the motor roams(up and down) the fuel system needs work.
Clean carb, rebuild pump, compression test, check tank vent(open?)

Saw the pics of the damage but not sure what part your working on. Lower unit?

My 88/85's have the water pickup in the same place you have and I just spread the ears out and sometimes duct tape them in place.
The lower needs to be dry for duct tape.
 
that pic is from the thermostat housing on a 84 115hp johnson i had accidently posted wrong page got 2 pages open doing 2 repairs lol

like it roamed like it was idling at 1000 rpms then roamed up then back down then about a minute later it roamed back up again

if i drop carb cleaner in the tank or fuel injector cleaner will that help?

i havent checked compression but maybe i could have replaced the one set of rings? 3 cyclinders are written down as 125 the other says 110 for compression or is that in the ok range?

the pump is that round black thing on the side right with the big silver screw

as for tank vent ya they are always open i guess they are on the ouside of the boat
 
The tank vent, it gets bugs(wasps) in the hose and they lay eggs and can clog the line.
Every comp tester reads different.
You looking for about the same reading on all cylinders.
Any more than 5-10 could mean a problem.(remove all plugs when doing the test)

Yes that's the pump.
 
oh ok thanks ill try it later so then if it reads 110 i should have redone that cylinder then when i had the engine split then right??

ah so there is no specific pressure to tell when a cylinder is perfectly good?

ill check for bugs too
 
Anytime a compression test is done and you don't get the results you should???
Get a different gauge and try again.
Depending on the motor some have different readings for different cylinders(not your motor).
The results should all be even with each other.
My twin 88/85's are at 145# on all 6 cyls.
If there is any difference I start looking for a problem.
And yes if you had it apart you should have done the rings.
You might need a decarb.
Mercury's Powertune or OMC's Engine Tuner.
They're the same product. Seafoam does nothing.
Your motors old enough that it was made and used when the old outboard oil would carbon up real fast.
Newer oil won't carbon so fast.
That's why it's important to mix the oil/gas right.
Too much oil is as bad as not enough oil.
 
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