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Need help with Stator and Trigger 115 Mercury

Blackjack2014

Contributing Member
Howdy, fellow merc guys,, I have been fighting a cold start issue with the 115 in our pontoon for the longest time. The boat was in inside storage for bout 6 years due to health issues and am trying to get in top shape so we can get a smaller boat. I have been fixing some issues that developed due to it setting and have got to this ghost ignition issue of spark-no spark. To maybe clear up some things,, this is a 1983 model 115 in line 6 cyl, SN 6300368. I had to remove the flywheel to replace the "torsion spring" on the idle return, and after that, is when I started to get this ghost miss/no miss issue. since the crankshaft has the "notch" in the splines, the flywheel will only go on one way, so don't think the timing is the issue. After re-assembling everything, the engine was very hard to start and progressed to "no start". I checked the spark plugs and all seemed like new so went ahead and check them while cranking the engine. #'s 1 and 6 had great spark, but #'s 2, 3, 4, and 5 had very little or no spark! I downloaded some test info for stator and trigger from 3 sites on the internet but have some concerns as to what I am seeing on the testing of the trigger. According to test procedures for the stator,the results I get indicate it is OK. The trigger testing is another matter, tho. Here is my concern,,,,one publisher lists from Brn lead (W/O blk sleeve) to Wht lead (W/yellow sleeve) should be 11-14 OHMs. I get 1.236 OHMs @ 200 scale with my new Bosch Professional AND same result (1.236) with my Fluke 25 that has auto ranging. The other two publishers list recommended OHMs to be 800-1400 OHMs,!! In my feeble thinking, these are not all the same values, because whether actual meter reading is 1.2 on one scale, or 1.23 on next higher scale, , or 1.236 on next higher scale,,,,it is STILL only 1 (one) OHM,,right? I downloaded the online manual form here (twice) but do not find the testing procedure from Mercury. Can somebody please help on this????
 
I would do a " no money spent " inspection of the starter motor.--------Slow cranking will mean spark problems on a motor like that.--------Now the most common answer to that is " my motor cranks just fine "---Some folks have said " wow what a difference with a good starter "------Your choice.
 
Don't have a clue where this came from,,."--------Slow cranking" but I haven't stated the 115 is having issues with slow cranking,,,,,,??????
 
..."since the crankshaft has the "notch" in the splines, the flywheel will only go on one way, so don't think the timing is the issue. "

Au contraire! There's 8 bolts holding the flexplate to the hub, which means it can be off 45 degrees.

Jeff
 
Au contraire! There's 8 bolts holding the flexplate to the hub, which means it can be off 45 degrees.
The markings may be off but the timing wont be!! The magnets that supplies trigger timing/voltage is attached to the hub and it cannot be installed but one way on crank.. The outer magnets have no effect on the timing as they are equally spaced and are for charging the capacitors in switchboxes and for battery charging...
First pull all the plugs and charge battery then test spark with a spark tester. Second make sure trigger wires are removed from switchboxes when testing. The pairings are off from what you posted so retesting is needed. Remember that the top box fires the odd cylinders and bottom fires even ones. When testing read from yellow sleeve to black sleeve...Brown w/yellow to Purple, White w/yellow to Brown, Purple w/yellow to White and they should read between 800-1400 ohms
 
MR FATZBULLET,,,,,you sound like the guy I been looking for,,,!!! Many thanks for your response, I do appreciate your time. I have read your response and have copied it for reference out at the boat. The one comment I don't quite understand is "When testing, read from yellow sleeve to black sleeve" ? I am REALLY glad you chimed in. Biggest problem is I live bout 5 hours one way away from a shop that works on boat engines plus my wife continues to have issues with her kidneys. I have to take her in the Morning back to Lubbock Tx for follow-up and removal of the stent that they installed in her duct when she was in hospital 3 weeks ago. Really lookin forward to getting back home so I can re-test as per your recommendations. What is your recommendation for the starter bendix that keeps "spinning out" right when engine sounds like it is going to start?? the bendix and spring are "new" from Ebay,,,? , but will spin out every time just like the original on would when cold starting.. Once the engine does start, and runs a min ot two,,,the starter bendix will NOT spin out and engine will start almost before you let go of the key,!!! I will get back to you with results soon as we get back from Dr's office. Thanks again. Joe r
 
On the lower switchbox the trigger wires have a yellow strip around sleeve, so test from the brown wire w/yellow sleeve to Purple and the repeat with White w/yellow to Brown, Purple w/yellow to White. The reason bendix kicks out is engine hits and throws it out, have you checked the enrichner for proper operation???
 
..."The markings may be off but the timing wont be!! "

They will be if one times the motor by the mark on the flywheel that's off 45 degrees if the 8 bolt deal is off a hole. And that was my point.

Jeff
 
Hey Faztbullet, OK,,I understand now. I'm kinda puzzled cause in none of my attempts to test the trigger did I get the OHM readings mentioned. Went so far as to buy a (just tested on engine) trigger from Ebay and it showed SAME readings as mine!!! I just walked back in house after testing trigger for umpteenth time and in the three tests you suggest, I get O.L on my Fluke 25 ((symbols indicate the input is too large for the input circuitry) Fluke 25 is auto ranging. Did the same test with a new Bosch Professional I just bought , and on all three tests, I got a 1 (one) switching the OHM scales will only move the decimal point, but the 1 stays the same,,,?? Went ahead and tested the Ebay trigger and exact same results,,,??
 
Hey RacerOne,,,quite the contrary,,, I value all comments and suggestions cause while I have not worked on many outboard engines before,,,I have worked all my life on all sorts of other internal combustion engines from the smallest 3 1/2 HP B&S to a 427 engine I built for my 55 Chevy that made 614 HP on a dyno at Texas Speed in Lubbock, Tx. So, I was NOT ignoring your suggestion,,,I just feel the starter is not dragging at all,!! In one of my earlier posts bout this PITA, I state that one of the first things I did was dismantle the starter and checked the brushes and I had to machine a new bushing for the outboard end of the armature. I'll be honest and say "I do not know how to test a starter" other than knowing when they are dragging a bit. So, please don't mis-understand my reluctance to do more other than to be concerned bout that dang bendix spinning out before starting the engine,,!! Hey FaztBullet,,,yes, I did catch your impression to do that with the battery and the spark checking and I plan to do that first thing Tuesday. Battery has had trickle charger on it all day and should be good for tomorrow. WE just got back from taking the Wife to Lubbock, TX for her follow-up to her surgery done 2 weeks ago. I'm anxious to get back on this bugger and get her going.!!! Thanks for all the help and,,,don't give up on me yet,,,,,!!
 
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Hey FaztBullet,, Did as you instructed and fully charged battery to 12.8 VDC. Pulled all spark plugs and rigged up a test device to check fire individually at plug wires. Revolting development,,,#'s 1, 2 and 6 have good blue spark,,!! #'s 3, 4, 5 have no fire at all,!!! Thinking maybe wires be bad I removed the wires from coils and tried again directly from those suspect coils,,same results,, coils # 3, 4, and 5 have no fire.! Disconnected 6 leads from trigger to the switch boxes and tested as per your suggestions. Test #1 Brn W/ yellow to purple W/blk. =1.345. (notice decimal point) Test #2 Wht W/ yellow to Brn W/ Blk = 1.288 (same decimal point) Test #3 Purple W/ yellow to Wht W/ Blk= 1.268 (same decimal point). These readings were at 2K on the new meter. Meter would only read a 1 on the 200 Ω scale. I re-tested using my Fluke 25 as it has "Auto Ranging" and got exact readings as the Bosch. Both meters zero'ed in at .001 Ω before testing. Where to from here??
 
Hey Jeff,,,I don't know, but my understanding is that one switch box controls the odd number cylinders ( 1, 3, & 5) and the other one controls the even number cylinders ( 2, 4, & 6). Since the cyls with no fire (3, 4, & 5) are involving both switch boxes,, ???? I figured if switch either box goes out, it would lose fire to the 3 cylinders it involves instead of just SOME,,,????
 
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