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BF50A tlit trim

D

dark_star

Regular Contributor
I some pretty heavy rusting on the unit...
A new Honda unit complete is $1150 U.S. approx.
There seem to be a few aftermarket products available
and wondering I they are any good ?
 
Have not looked for any aftermarket. Post links to different manufactures. If we have not had experience with the specific unit, maybe we know about the manufacturer.

Mike
 
Bought some starters from that company. They seemed to work pretty good. If you only need the motor, the price is good.

Doing a quick search for complete trim units, I could not find any aftermarket. There is one that is used on ebay. They are asking a lot for a used one, but are open to offers. Boats.net is $891 US.

Mike
 
A bit off topic but the little switch type thing that is held by a m6 screw that gives the tilt/ trim indicator feedback has fallen off my bf50a I can see that if I want a new one I have to spend over $100 for a complete unit could one of you guys please measure up yours so I can make a new one.
 
Dark Star,

If you just need the motor, API has equivalents and they are much cheaper, but do the same job.

Honda PN API

31200-HW1-671 3070
31200-ZV5-0130 MOT5010N
31200-ZV6A-0130 MOT5010N
31200-ZW1-004 MOT6000N
31200-ZW5-003 MOT6001N
31200-ZY3-003 MOT6002N
31210-ZA0-982 ST200ND
31210-ZE3-013 MOT18513
36120-ZV5-821 PT302NM
36120-ZV5-822 PT656NM
36120-ZY3-013 PT607 NM (Must reverse wires)
 
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Well, I couldn't get the darn thing to format correctly. The Honda part number is followed by the API number on each line.
 
Apologies if I am in the wrong place here. I am new to boating and recently bought a Macgregor 26 M Power Sailor with a 2004 Honda 50HP outboard. This morning, while preparing the engine for winter , I noticed the insulation on the wire going to the trim motor had disintegrated .The blue insulation was intact but the metal of the green wire was exposed over a 6 inch length almost to the motor. It looks like the harness is part of the motor cover. Can anyone advise me on how difficult it is to remove and replace the motor cover . Alternatively I wondered if I could cut the green wire , add a heat shrink sleeve then either solder or crimp connect the wire prior to adding heat to the heat shrink. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
I think you will see from this diagram, that the wires go into the base of the trim motor. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2002/BF50A2 LRTA/POWER TRIM-TILT/parts.html

As long as you lock the motor fully up (for safety) and have the right tools and a little patience, you should be able to take out the 4 screws that hold the trim motor.

As for repairing the lead. Yes, it is possible, as you suggest to solder and shrink wrap the wire. Just keep in mind that even though shrink wrapped, the wire will be under water and will ultimately fail again....so it is a temporary fix at best. If you have to add wire, be sure to use the same size (gauge) wire.

A complete new motor is less than $300.

Mike
 
If it's still working ok....just leave it as is and use a product you can buy at the auto parts store called RIGHT STUFF. It is a gasket making compound and is impervious to most things EXCEPT raw, liquid, gasoline.

Make your new wire insulation out of it and goop it on good around the "grommet" in the housing that the wires fit through. That grommet will ultimately fail (dries out) and allow water to enter the motor so doing this will extend the motor's life.

Make sure that all surfaces are clean and dry and use the sealer to go as far UP the wire, overlaying the existing insulation, as is practical.

Have plenty of paper towels ready as RIGHT STUFF is messy and black...but will not harm your skin or any painted or gelcoat surfaces. It WILL come off but will take some work if you let it dry.

It's hard to make this "FIX" look "PURTY" but it is highly effective and easy and cheap (about $15).

Good luck and I hope you ENJOY your "new" Mac! (Sweet and fast Ride!)
 
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A good addition to your taping and sealing of those wires would be this product:
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBDK7G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00A

I have used this stuff for many years and it really seals out salt water. It's available in Cans w/brush at many marine/hardware, but I find the tube much easier to apply, control and seal. My First tube (after many cans) was from a hardware store, but then had to go to Amazon to find next 'tube'.

I usually (after soldered connection is complete) start with a coat of this, then standard (outdoor use) electrical tape and paint or anything next.

There's no better sealer than 3M's 5200, I have a Yamaha internal Oil Injection Tank that was leaking around sensor over 20 years ago. Yamaha Dealer's only option was complete replacement of Tank/Sensor $$$, 3M-5200 (one application) has kept it well sealed to this day. Of course this won't seal a high pressure leak, so you have to control the situation before that happens. I used a "seven-day" cure (only version then), but they now have 24 Hour Cure that sticks and seals just as well.

If you have visible rust around your motor/pump/connections/wires, after cleaning coat it with the aerosol "cold galvanizing" available in many brands like CRC or Rustolium, just shake thoroughly throughout your use. It is conductive, so I would be careful to not allow a continuous coating across wires and use previous sealing around wires with it.

It can be painted over for a final finish, but it will stop the rusting.
Art
 
So summer arrived and the motor failed despite the repair I made to the wires. I purchased a new trim motor and installed it tonight. The install was going well until I went to connect the wiring. I manually moved the outboard to the full down position in order to get at the connector and when doing so all the hydraulic fluid spilled out - I guess I turned the manual/power trim screw too far. How do I refill the unit. Is it through the red plug on the back of the piston. If so how is the red plug removed. Thanks for the help.
 
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