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BF20A question

dlane

Member
i have a 1995 20 hp 4 stroke Honda and I need to know what the piece that is holding the motor on the transom clamps, not sure what they are acxtually called. anyway its the piece on the upper end of the tube that the shift rod goes down through. it I bolted to the motor and is the piece were it turns at.I was old it may be called the yoke. does anyone know what im talking abought?

thans:dlane
 
were can I find a parts schematic showing the complete motor? I can't seem to find it.
how abought pars for a 95 Honda?

thanks:dlane
 
the difference beween a 2 hp and a 20 hp is quite obvios and im really not that stupid. It says 1995 on the tag on the motor and says 20 on the cover and it came with an owners manual for a BF20A , all I know
 
I did not mean to insult you. I am just trying to help. One of the early 2 HP's (1985) had 20 on the cover.

How about that serial number? Is there any? Something is not consistant with the info that I have. The serial number could cut through all that.....I hope.

Mike
 
Yep, believe me....Mike is NOT trying to be a smart Alec. His sole purpose here is to help folks.

And, like he said, the EARLIEST 20 hp seems to be a 2003. And it's a BF20D.

But looking at your description and the parts pages for the BF20D I came up with the swivel case. It is item #8 in the link below. Take a look and see if it is close to what you are looking for.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2003/BF20D3 LGA/SWIVEL CASE (2)/parts.html

And, for comparison's sake...here is the swivel case breakdown from a PRE 1997 BF20F 2 hp model

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/0/BF20F SA/SWIVEL CASE/parts.html

Get back to Mike with that serial number and let us know if any of this is even close to what you are trying to find.
 
hondadude, or anyone else,is this a hard piece to replace? were can I get a repair manual for the 1995 20 hp honda ? not a service manual

thanks:dane
 
Dlane,

I am going to go a different direction on this. We were a honda dealer from the early 80's until only a few years ago..i still run a repair shop and specialize in honda marine. i vaguely remember a 20hp in the states that was based on the 25/30 layout. i am actually not sure about this because my mind can play tricks. you may be looking for the swivel case as in http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/0/BF25A LHA/SWIVEL CASE/parts.html

i can check flat rate time when i get back to work. let me know if your motor looks like this diagram.
 
Yea that looks like it, im hearing they didn't make 20 hp in 95 that its probably a 25hp but I thinking your onto something. a 20 hp built on the 25hp frame.
close to 300 bucks ,
how much would you think it will cost to have this put on?
is it difficult to do? im pretty mechanical.

thanks for the help yall
 
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It should not be too hard to repair if you get the correct parts....and if everything is not rusted together.

I hate to be a broken record, but you really need the serial number to zero in on the correct part.

You will also need to know if it is a short or long shaft; tiller or remote steering;manual or power tilt. There are several different pieces of the same part.

You can purchase a repair manual from Honda on ebay or amazon. Here is a link that takes you to links to the Honda web stores.

By the way, the 20hp, that I know, is two cylinder and is not based on the 25/30 hp which are three cylinders.

I know you keep saying this is a 1995....but

To many It should not be too hard to repair if you get the correct parts....and if everything is not rusted together.

You can purchase a repair manual from Honda on ebay or amazon. Here is a link that takes you to links to the Honda web stores.

By the way, the 20hp is two cylinder and is not based on the 25/30 hp which are three cylinders.

This is just a guessing game without the serial number...so I am bowing out of this until you post that. Also....short shaft/long shaft...manual tilt/power tilt.....tillter steering/remote control?

Mike
 
tag on the front says 1995 BF20 rated 14.7 KW, tag on the side which I think is the serial- 1000109 BAHL also says BF20A , it is 3 cylinders.

is that enouph to find the rite part?

Thank you for your help
 
I believe Honda calls that piece...on all the outboards as far as I can tell...."frame, mounting".

It slides into the swivel case tube. Item 2 in the link for the pre 97 25 hp below.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/0/BF25A LRSA/SWIVEL CASE/parts.html

The problem is, without your frame or serial number for your outboard, finding the exact one for your application might be hard to do. You can see that the one for the old 25 is similar to yours (and VERY much like later 3 cylinder models) but it is obviously not exactly the same.

As far as it being hard to change out...that is relative. It would be easy for me but might challenge someone not very mechanically inclined.
 
Well....I am stumped! I can find no serial number with BAHL 1000109. I can find a BAJL, which is a 25hp 1993 -1998. The number can not be found in my parts program.

Willdo may be on to something. It may be a detuned 25hp.

Is the motor a three cylinder?

Mike

I have been selling Honda motors since 1995 and there were no 20's in the USA in 1995....so unless this is a frankinstein motor that someone put together from pieces, my guess is that it is from somewhere other than the USA.

If this is a detuned 25 hp, then I will have to retract my statement that it should not be too hard to repair. It should take a few hours to do.

From your picture, it does look like it is a manual tilt gas assist tilt

Is it a short, long, or xtra long shaft?
 
this is it, any help? I would like to know what it actually is. so if there isn't a serial in this group then it is what again? are 20hp motors 2 cylinder?

thanks a lot for the help:
 

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Dlane,

the part you need is 50100zv7000za. i am in canada, probably best to contact your local dealer for the part? Of course it can be shipped You may want additional hardware if it is that rusty. The flat rate time is 1 hour, but that is in a dream world. I think it might take 1 and a half to 2 hrs with proper tools, considering the corrosion, cleaning, greasing etc... it looks like a remote style so your model is probably a bf20amlrsd
 
I have microfiche here with that motor, but it is the same as the 25/30a so you can just select parts off that page i posted earlier. ...how is the rest of the motor? corrosion issues elsewhere?
 
Willdo, thanks for the info, Big thing for me, I truly appreciate it.
the rest of the motor is in great shape. low hrs, actually looks new under the hood. it was on a sail boat in tampa fl. kept on a lift mostly.I paid $1000.00 for it, whats your take on that? I knew I had to change the part but had no idea it would cost so much.
 
great, I'm glad it helps. ...in Canada the new 20dk3lrtc is selling for $5099, so maybe there is a 20dk3lrta that you can price for comparison. The new one is a lot lighter, smaller, 2cyl. Yours is a good motor though, a little heavy for only 20hp imo. ...good time to do some preventative maintenance, specially if it has been sitting, and there was salt spray or whatever rusted that out. i like to wash it off and then do a proper greasing, gives me a chance to look them over? ...if you haven't already, make sure you check the gear oil, the compression, and see if it idles properly and accelerates smoothly. those are my quick three
 
microfishe? What's that? We do not even have a reader any more. LOL
Willdo.....What does the "irsd" stand for? I know the "am" is the model year (same as the 25/30 of that year).

The "d" is probably the country designation....but what country?

The current 20 HP Hondas have two cylinders.

This motor, as a detuned 25 hp, has the same cubic inches as the 25/30, so even at full throttle, it should not struggle what so ever. Do regular maintenance and oil changes and this motor should last a lifetime.

I will say, that this one put me in my place. I would have bet money that you were smoking something funny. LOL

MEGA Kudos to Willdo for hanging in there and doing all that detective work!

If you are going to order one, get with your local dealer quick! I just checked the availability in the USA and there is only one left in the country. Ordering from someone on line might be cheaper, but they may only sell what they have in stock, or may charge extra for special order. The price of this part will not cost your local dealer any shipping (since it is well below minimum order charge for them).

Good luck!

Mike
 
Thank you very much for the help.The motor runs,revs up,idles great the motor oil and gear oil was very clean. It looks real clean under the hood.I haven't had it in the water yet so not sure completely.

if it has same cubes as the 25 what makes it 20 hp?
 
Different camshaft mostly. It probably would have less valve lift or "duration" as they say. That, along with smaller jets in the carburetor is how many similar sized block and head configurations are rated at differing horsepower.

Sometimes it's done for a "specialty" market. The glaring example of that is the 9.9 hp offered by Honda and others. They are made pretty much to provide for municipal water districts that have an "under 10 hp" rule on their compounds to prevent bank erosion.

Other reasons for doing so is marketing to a fuel consumption sensitive market as well as a vessel application market where the transoms of a particular series or size of boats only allow for a given hp rating.

Like a sailboat maybe.
 
so would this 3 cylinder 20 hp be any better or worse than a 2 cylinder 20 hp motor? like would it have more power or get more miles to the gallion .
the guy I got it from had I on a rather big catamaran sail boat but he was the second owner and I don't know what the first guy had it on.

thanks for the info
 
so can the part im needing to change come off by takeing the 2 nuts off without going inside the case? I see there are rubber mounts,can they be used again?
 
Mike, sorry, i would say ...'lrsd' is probably long shaft - remote - electric start - whatever 'd' stands for :)

dlune, comparing the 20 and 25 specs in the shop manual:
the 25 gets 25hp at 5500rpm +-500, max torque is 26ft-lb at 4000rpm, and fuel consumption is 239g/psh.
the 20 gets 20hp at 5000rpm +-500, max torque is 25.7ft-lb at 3000rpm, and fuel consumption is 214gpsh.
...this should help the discussion, i don't have any further comments at this point, i'll think about it. As Mike says, carb and camshaft likely changed the power curves, probably ign. is different too?, which resulted in these specs. in general, i see that the 20 gets it done at lower rpm, so in theory it should last longer then the 25, but they are both gonna last forever, so it doesn't matter.

re: repair. it looks like you disconnect shift shaft down low, undo the rubber mounts, undo those bolts, and depending how much wiggle room you get, you may need to remove gearcase, or extension case to get it to drop down off the upper shift shaft? you're lucky it's not on the boat, that would cause you another hour or two. btw, i haven't actually done this on this motor, but that would be my approach to start. I don't want to be responsible though if it gets more involved :) Let us know how it goes.

i wouldn't change the rubber unless there is damage. i would replace all bushings and sleeves that you disturb, wash up the parts, and apply the right grease, and torque on re-install.
 
now that my motor is on your mind I still need help,please
seeing its a detuned 25 will it take a 25hp prop?
im ready to change out the part in question the frame mount so first I need to deal with the shift rod , how do I get it out so I can remove the whole clamp?
 
i don't know how to remove the upper shift rod easily, it is possible that you have to pull the powerhead to do that! you could look under the engine cowling and see if there is a way to pull the upper shift rod up, by disconecting it, combined with removing a few odds and ends. I was thinking rather you could disconnect the upper shift rod from the lower shft rod, the way you do it if you are removing the lower unit, and then maybe remove the rest of the stuff that i mentioned in previous post, then try to slip the whole assembly down off the upper shift rod?? The service manual is not clear. it shows the piece you are replacing as if the extention case and the power head were both already removed, a ginormous task by comparison, and a lot more parts and shop equipment required.

you will be able to use 25/30hp props, but go with lower pitch to make sure you can get your revs up.
 
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