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Rebuild / Re-power 88 SPL

chuffysplace

New member
I own a 1987 19' Carolina Skiff with a 1987 Envinrude 88 SPL. Second owner, lots of hours, things have very been good until recently. Can't complain. Old boat, old motor. Although still running, I noticed a bad water leak in the back of the engine. I took it in for service and was told that it was a cracked block on one side and that its probably not worth fixing due to labor, cost of parts, age of engine, etc. I am fairly mechanically inclined but that job of fixing that looks to be a tough and I question if its worth it (assuming the shop is was not lying and trying to sell me a new outboard). The boat and trailer and everything else are actually still in good shape, so I have to make a decision. A new re-power is at least 10 grand with any brand of engine. Are their alternatives? Trying to find a used engine like that with similar rigging would be pretty hard to do I think. I've seen some re-manufactured outboards but was unsure if that's my best alternative. If anyone can offer advice, good, bad or indifferent, I'd appreciate it. Thanks. Chris Lords Valley, PA
 
Its running pretty good actually but it will stall when idling sometimes though. I can't remember the compression reading but all cylinders were close to each other. If I pull the plug on the bottom left bank (its a v4 and that's the one that is leaking water), the plug is clean as can be, almost as if its clean from all the water in the cylinder. The other plugs good good. I'm thinking that running it probably is not that good for it at this point, so I'm not doing that!
 
I should have mentioned, while it was in for this, that's what the mechanic thought. He replaced that and other gaskets but then later realized the block is cracked. He said it may have been caused by the engine not in the fully down position when being stored for winter. I suppose I could take it apart and at least verify the block is cracked like he is saying. By the looks of what I see, and how much water is coming out - I have a good feeling he is right.
 
Very common problem as if drain hole is plugged it will freeze and crack block on #4 and it can be welded as have repaired dozens with this problem..
 
Thanks guys...I will check this out and check the drain hole too. Quick question, when you have fixed these before, did you have to remove the block (split the case) or remove the bottom engine shroud to get to the offending cracked metal or where you able to get to it, as is, with minimal disassembly? The reason I ask, is I'm not clear on how to get the bottom shroud off or if I need special tools to do so. I'm sure I can get a manual and read into it though.
 
Ok gotcha. I will look into that. On that motor, not sure if I have to split the cases to do that (most likely) but will check it out. Thanks again all.
 
On that motor, not sure if I have to split the cases to do that (most likely) but will check it out. Thanks again all.
Just undo cables, electrical and unbolt and lift off powerhead. you will see crack under the cylinder. Take to welding shop and have welded...No need to tear it apart, replace the t-stats ad base gaskets while you go it off.
 
Ok cool, not horrible. This sounds like something I can do. I will try to find some schematics or pictures of this power head and motor layout. Having never done this before, it will help me out, as a guide you know. Thanks again!
 
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