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Shift rod bushing removel

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scruffy63

Regular Contributor
I have the tool to take out shift rod bushings on most lowers but I have an Evinrude 25hp that has the shift rod where the tool won't pull it from the bottom because there is cast housing below the bushing and seal and the puller won't work on the one. Question is how do I get that bushing out?
 
You have a motor with thru-prop exhaust, right? I think the procedure is to file or grind the points off a hex nut, and run a threaded rod through the bushing into the modified nut. Then use a cross-bar across the top of the case and a nut on the rod to pull the bushing up and out. At least that's the way I remember it. It's 1:20 AM as I am thinking this.
 
Great help, I will try a long bolt that is almost snug with housing hole and drive it out. I did not realize the bushing hole was that much smaller and it would catch the bolt.
 
Be careful with that. The hole may (probably) be smaller than a 5/16" bolt. I discovered that when a guy busted a gearcase trying to drive one of my original removal tools (5/16") through it.

Here is an optional way of getting those out of the split gearcases: www.franksoutboardtools.com
 
Sorry to revive this thread, but I just went through the process of removing the lower shift rod brass bushing from the lower unit of a 1990 Johnson 30 HP (J30RESS). I suspect that this issue would apply to most 15-35 HP J/E outboards with through-prop exhaust.
I was just replacing all lower unit seals and didn't want to dismantle the entire lower unit to do so - thus, I couldn't apply the method described by 'fdrgator.' What I did, kosher or not, was to remove the lower shift rod, stuff a bit of paper towel in the bushing so that it 'sealed' the hole (the paper towel bunched up behind the o-ring and plastic washer). I then tapped the brass hole with 5/16th-18 threads, screwed in some 5/16 threaded rod and pulled the bushing out. No brass shavings made it into the lower unit gears because of the wadding, which came out with the bushing. I re-used the bushing (with NEW o-rings) and it works fantastic and there is no excess play in the shift rod since the ID of the threaded bushing is essentially the same after tapping. I hope this helps.
 
Lawsonite said:
Sorry to revive this thread, but I just went through the process of removing the lower shift rod brass bushing from the lower unit of a 1990 Johnson 30 HP (J30RESS). I suspect that this issue would apply to most 15-35 HP J/E outboards with through-prop exhaust.
I was just replacing all lower unit seals and didn't want to dismantle the entire lower unit to do so - thus, I couldn't apply the method described by 'fdrgator.' What I did, kosher or not, was to remove the lower shift rod, stuff a bit of paper towel in the bushing so that it 'sealed' the hole (the paper towel bunched up behind the o-ring and plastic washer). I then tapped the brass hole with 5/16th-18 threads, screwed in some 5/16 threaded rod and pulled the bushing out. No brass shavings made it into the lower unit gears because of the wadding, which came out with the bushing. I re-used the bushing (with NEW o-rings) and it works fantastic and there is no excess play in the shift rod since the ID of the threaded bushing is essentially the same after tapping. I hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of trying this on my e25rlcos 25hp evinrude. Did the white plastic washer some out on the 5/16 threaded rod or did you have t pick it out? Or just leave it where it in. Was the shift rod easy to realign with the shift yoke?

Either that I think I can do it how Seloc says but with minimal disassembly of the gear case. Probably just remove the retaining ring, retainer plate, and yoke then be able to thread a ground down rounded nut on a 1/4 x 20 rod through the bushing and pull from top.

What do you all think?
 
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