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where to get a OMC repair book or have good video or instructions on Timing a 84 115hp evinrude

C

comet424

Regular Contributor
hi
i have the selco book and its confusing as hell and someone told me to get an OMC manual and where do i get one of those.. since you cant reach evinrude website by email and they only deal with 95 and up and my dealer only gets Selco manuals.

or is there a good video as i rebuilding my engine and i wanna make sure the pointer maker is set initially in the right spot for TDC and my engine is set for 2 it talks about for the advance btdc
and i read the joe reaves thing... but i read in an archive that there was a different setup

but do you guys have instructions if i cant get a omc manual how to make sure ur at TDC with the marker lined up as i know when you do turn the engine by hand there is still play it doesnt go instantly down and which top cylinder is no1 since its a v4 left or right when your standing at the spark plug side...

and when you do the joe reaves setup... can you use a sparkplug or just ground each plug wire to the ground or just unplug three of the coil packs? from the harness

but when you mark the fly wheel with a marker i guessing you need to do do you mark the 0 mark and then for my engine it says 2 with a circle around it... would you mark that at the -2 mark with say a different color and then adjust it to the arrow mark... once i know the mark is in the right spot

and since i rebuilding the engine i can do it with the heads off right? since you cant bolt the engine down with the heads on as i cant get under there
 
ah ok thanks... and i guessing im right on what i said above on what to do seems right i think
and thanks ill check for the service manual
 
well i was wrong about the -2 degree mark the 2 with circle i found on a page that was stuck ment check the decal of the engine to know the WOT degree which i dont seem to have so thats gonna be an issue
 
reading on in the selco book as all i got for now when i assemble the 2 halves on the engine it says to throw away 2 of the bolts i guessing the 4 bolts that hold that plate on the inside of the engine this is the lower half where it has 4 bolts in in the middle with other bolts on the outside. do you really need to throw them away they have sealer on them or can i not just put sealant on it? PRO Dope???

and they talk about using gel sealer for the chrysler engine i did i used Moto Seal from permatex is that ok to use? i spread it it the entire width of the half so it couldnt leak at all.. is that ok?
 
oh ok you use the anabolic flange sleant the red stuff so then the moto seal i used no good??? and what about the bottom seal to hold i guess that metal plate and bearing together the book says throw the bolts away and get new ones with the sealant already on it.. can i just coat with sealant or need to get these 2-4 bolts? and on this engine do you use the red flange sealant on the bolts too or a different sealant as i also have thread sealant white stuff from peramtex with teflon on it.
 
another question do i need to replace the needle bearings? nothing wrong with them i did change crank and i mixed up the roller bearings just put them in a cup the 2 halfs
book says to use a scriber to move back and forth and such and to use needle bearing grease never heard of that so you cant use regular motor oil?
 
ah ok ya moto seal is for putting 2 halves together that are for 2 strokes like motor cycles ...
as for the botls the link you sent just regular bolts but the book talks about you need get the bolts that already come with sealant put on the bolts when you buy them.. and if you mean just buying new clean bolts what sealant would you put on those bolts just gasket maker in the the holes? as i know the 4 inner bolts i guess thats with the sealant on it already that holds the plate behind the bearing...
just not sure if you can buy the bolts with sealant still on them or just get new bolts and put sealant on them but which one? as id put the motoseal on all the bolts or the RTV black i think i used

this link is the pipe thread sealant with teflon i used for my chrysler bolts but maybe you can double check?
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...ants/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe-detail

and this is the motoseal i had used to mat the 2 halves together on my chrysler outboard
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...-motoseal-1-ultimate-gasket-maker-grey-detail
 
and damn 6 bucks a bolt and id need 4 of the inside one and thats american so 10 bolts a bolt here in canada before taxes damn lol
 
ah ok just put gasketmaker in then i guess on thread of the bolts.. i did notice i not sure if they got there but some of the bolts have an o ring on them is that for them this engine broke a few years ago and finally getting time to it now do i need new little o rings for the bottom 4 that hold that lower bearing plate
 
Hastings Ontario... and is there only 4 o rings needed?as i didnt see no selant on these bolts. kinda gunky on the 79 engine where i took same bolts out didtn see no o rings on it.. as i took the crank out of the 79 for the 84
 
There are 4 bolts with o-rings for the bearing retainer plate.----the other 8 bolts on the outside do not need sealer of any kind.
 
oh ok ill check my o ring kits if i got ones that small least i dont have to buy special bolts with sealant already on the threads like book says

and for the main 4 bolts for gluing the 2 halves it takes about just doing dabs but what i did with the chrysler i coated and spread it thing the whole half so i made sure it was going to have a perfect seal...

but it doesnt say but can i use blue locktite on the 4 internal bolts and then outside and have gasket maker on higher up on the threads? or just no locktite
 
The half joint on these motors is a ---PRECISION , METAL TO METAL JOINT--------You can not use what you think is " good enuff " on these joints.------Use only a 1/16" bead of BRP gel seal or Loctite 518 on one surface.------Absolutely no need to smear it all over the place !!!!
 
ah ok ill check
as for the locktite stuff cant buy it since im not a mechanic. and locktite owns permatex and said they the same stuff.. and they were the ones to say use MotoSeal since its for 2stroke engines
and figured a bead isn't a good seal figured if it was the width of it thinly spread with a spatchula be fine.... and ill have to check if my o rings are fuel resitant if not ill have to try an automotive store

if I cant get the orings ill try the marinas but they all closed for the season not opening till may

but I appreciate all the help
 
but I gonna pick up permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker been told to use that with a bead

guess I don't have buna o rings so ill have to pick some up an assorted kit as they fuel grade
 
ok ill do that ill get some of the aerobatic flange sealant and run a bead up the sides and around the bolt holes.. do you put that sealant on the bolts or different gasket maker??

and do you guys add blue Loctite to the bolts before you tighten them down to the torq values?
 
On the crankcase bolts - no loctite. I use a little permatex thread sealant, more because it works as a good anti-seize and helps prevent anything from rattling loose, but also in some places helps prevent leaks.

And do not forget to use the alignment pins in the process - tap them down a little (tap gently not bang) as they are there to help assure the crankcase is lined up right. Do this before you torque the bolts.

Jon
 
I should probably state I think they want you to use loctite on the upper and lower caps - but maybe someone will comment on that (this is when it's good to have a book).

I will state I'm an amateur but never use loctite on the end cap bolts; I might consider it for the upper ones but the lower ones (which are really the ones you do not want coming loose) tend to seize in place - it's hard enough getting them out without that. Similarly I use thread sealant.

Jon
 
ok thanks and the peramtext with telfon
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...ants/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe-detail
I noticed only good say for the head gaskets

as for the bolts 4 in the engine ill use the masters pro dope with deflon on the bolts then

and I bought the complete rebuild kit for this engine and I noticed some parts I may not need?? not sure what they are one is like a cyan greenish color model airplane servo shapped piece 1/8" thick or so with 3 holes

also have 2 cork flat washer seals

and 2 crank shaft seals... as it came with 4 but only 2 seem to be for the top and bottom
 
and reason I asked about the locktite was even though you torq it to the specs how do you make sure the bolts never come loose without lock washers... just the torq holds it down?
 
???????-------Many bolts on outboard motor do not use lockwashers !!!!-------Must be a reason for that, they do not need them.-------These Johnson / Evinrude folks built many motors.-----I have put many back together too.----There is no need for lockwashers !
 
all I did was ask why was just curious as for a car a diesel engine they all used lock washers for the head down


no worries thanks for all the help so far
 
oh on the intake half of the case there is a metal like hose hook up that is behind the throttle Piviot point.. the 79 block doesn't have that.. but what is that little port? as the diagram from my engine doesn't show it on the diagram
 
The 3 hole gasket thing is probably for the fuel pump. If you bought a full gasket set it is most likely going to be for a whole bunch of a different engines, possibly even including parts for V6's.

Jon
 
On the starboard side of the block - I forget they are all on the intake manifold or if some are on the crankcase cover, there can be 3 openings on the front side of the block that could be capped and not included on older engines I believe. The bottom most one is a drain, newer V4's have a cover over the carbs that holds any fuel that leaks out, weeping it into the crankcase, which could be plugged.. Then there is a pulse fitting for the VRO that could have a hose attached it it (if you have a VRO) or be plugged, then there is the fuel pump fitting just in front of the starter, which similarly could be plugged.
 
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