daves69
Advanced Contributor
I apologize that these links are not marine specific. However, I feel they may (or may not) offer useful information for repair and maintenance of these older OEM distributors.
First things first!
Automotive Ignition IS NOT A Substitute For Marine Applications.
So this is a " for what it's worth " thread. I assume no liability.
A word of caution:
Read the article first. Make sure you know exactly what you are getting into.
Before you loosen the distributor hold-down bolt I strongly recommend you mark everything.
A digital camera will be useful to help you remember "how it was" before any disassembly.
Starting with a timing check to know where you started from, document your readings. Write them down, then double check them.
Rotate crank damper to 0° (zero degrees) or TDC on the compression stroke. Careful, some dampers could have marks on them 90° apart. The rotor (dizzy) should be pointing to the #1 plug tower of the distributor cap.
Marking the distributor base and the block prior to removal is a good idea for reference on reinstall.
The advance springs may be the same or in fact different. One could be heavier than the other, longer than the other, or whatever. Make sure you document their position before removal.
Don't over stretch the springs when removing or installing. "Just enough" to get them off and on is all you need.
The advance plate may or may not have a number on the bottom face. If it does, that is the total mechanical advance degrees the two slots provide (degrees at distributor) for that distributor.
I see some marine suppliers are replacing Chrysler Part #2586576 advance spring set with Mallory 9-26804 advance spring kit.
The links........................
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=3424.0
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp-0301-mopar-electronic-ignition-system/
an advance limit plate.............
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Mopar Mechanical timing limiter plate.htm
Once again:
Automotive Ignition IS NOT A Substitute For Marine Applications.
First things first!
Automotive Ignition IS NOT A Substitute For Marine Applications.
So this is a " for what it's worth " thread. I assume no liability.
A word of caution:
Read the article first. Make sure you know exactly what you are getting into.
Before you loosen the distributor hold-down bolt I strongly recommend you mark everything.
A digital camera will be useful to help you remember "how it was" before any disassembly.
Starting with a timing check to know where you started from, document your readings. Write them down, then double check them.
Rotate crank damper to 0° (zero degrees) or TDC on the compression stroke. Careful, some dampers could have marks on them 90° apart. The rotor (dizzy) should be pointing to the #1 plug tower of the distributor cap.
Marking the distributor base and the block prior to removal is a good idea for reference on reinstall.
The advance springs may be the same or in fact different. One could be heavier than the other, longer than the other, or whatever. Make sure you document their position before removal.
Don't over stretch the springs when removing or installing. "Just enough" to get them off and on is all you need.
The advance plate may or may not have a number on the bottom face. If it does, that is the total mechanical advance degrees the two slots provide (degrees at distributor) for that distributor.
I see some marine suppliers are replacing Chrysler Part #2586576 advance spring set with Mallory 9-26804 advance spring kit.
The links........................
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=3424.0
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp-0301-mopar-electronic-ignition-system/
an advance limit plate.............
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Mopar Mechanical timing limiter plate.htm
Once again:
Automotive Ignition IS NOT A Substitute For Marine Applications.