If you want to paint it (and I'm not gonna tell you it's worth painting
) step #1 is to really clean any grease and dirt away. Engine de-greaser, the type that comes in a spray can and foams, as well as brillo pads, are great for this. Put the soap on, scrub where you can, hose it off, and repeat.
Once you have it clean go at it with a paint scraper and remove any chipping/loose paint. Then sand all the edges and the entire area to be painted, doesn't need to be perfect like an auto-body job on a corvette but you want to feather out the edges a bit as well as clean off any crappy pain or water stain. The more you sand the better it will look.
After sanding wash it again to remove dust, let it dry, wipe the area to be painted down with alcohol or mineral spirits, wipe it again to be sure it's dry and free of the solvent, and you are about ready to paint. Put some Vaseline on any parts you do not want to paint (like zincs or black plastic parts)
Another option to the above if you really want to go wild is to get a bunch of paint stripper - problem with that stuff is it eats rubber, plastic, anything not metal - so it can be very hard to use on a large area without potentially damaging something. Also it can be a pain if you get it into an area that you can't reach well, as it will half dissolve the paint but will leave a crappy layer of paint there that won't hold a topcoat at all - basically if you are gonna strip it you want to really strip it clean. It's probably more practical just to de-grease and sand.
As far as paint - no sense trying to match color as it won't match. The best and most readily available spray paint I know of is Rust Oleum "Fast Dry Aluminum Primer" (comes in white), followed by their "Automotive" spray paint - all available at Walmart, auto parts stores, etc.. The "automotive" spray paint seems a little better than standard stuff, goes on better and dries faster, is supposed to be more chip & fade resistant too. I don't know about Chrysler but I really do not like the OMC brand touch up paint, takes forever to dry, even longer to fully cure, is not very solvent resistant, and has a tendency to crinkle up if you go over it with a topcoat too soon - better off with Rust Oleum that works better, which you can buy down the street for half the $$.
If you have a lot of chipping you may want to do this in two steps - #1 put the primer on, let it completely dry #2 you will notice some places where the paint you went over seemed OK but lifted up - when the primer is dry you can then chip those spots off, re-sand the area, and re-prime, them move to the topcoat.
Jon