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20 HP Chrysler carb removal

Bullie

Regular Contributor
I picked up a 1972 20 HP Electric Start model 204HD yesterday. I, with much difficulty, got the starter off and cleaned up lots of rust from the crank shaft and points, reassembled and got it to fire and run if I squirt a little fuel mix in the carb. Actually sounds pretty good. Anyway, it is not getting any gas to the carb so I removed the fuel pump. It needs a rebuild...no problem. But, is there a secret to getting the carb off? Just from my observation this morning it appears that I will have to remove the starter, flywheel, and all the ignition system to get to the bracket the carb is bolted to on top. Someone tell me the easy way please.
 
It's a 204HD. I got some good advice and used a screwdriver to tap it until it loosened enough to get out by hand. There is no room for a wrench at all on the top nut unless you take off the starter and flywheel to get to the bracket underneath. Screwdriver and a little tapping is the way to go.
 
Another question. On the carb there is a brass screw that allows access to the needle valve and seat. The PO used some red sealer or gasket compound on it and the other screws. I haven't been able to loosen this one with PB Blaster or carb cleaner. Would it be ok to use heat on this casting? Or some other method you guys would advise? Not familiar enough to know what is ok to heat and what is not.
 

You can see the needle on the right in the picture. The screw is on the right.

This is the one I need to remove to gain access to the needle and seat.

Another that is "glued" in. This one I don't believe I will need to remove.
 
It was pretty rough when I picked it up.


A lot of elbow grease and a little paint and she looks a lot better.


Fuel is leaking from the connector on the motor. I replaced the rear o-ring but it still leaks. Gonna see if I can get the front one out and try again. Hope I don't have to replace that thing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kYvCw0FV6I
 
No. That is the (female) connector from the tank. The motor side (male) is causing the leak. It has an o-ring at its base (nearest the motor) and one in the very front where the ball is depressed. I replaced the rear o-ring and will try the front tomorrow. $0.31 each is a lot better than waiting on a $20+ part. We will see. Anyway, chalk up another one to help from you guys.

 
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Replaced both o-rings. Still leaking. Gonna go a different way I think. I will put a Yamaha fitting on it so my dad can hook one of his tanks up without having to buy another hose.
 
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