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1971 johnson 60hp high speed miss

In addition to Kim's usual on target advice..... After installing the plate first (just leave the spring on the bench and forget about it for a few seconds), then after securing the plate... look closely at the "anti reverse" spring.

Notice that in one position, the spring will set FLAT but if turned over, it will not. It's simply a case of having the spring positioned so that it will sit FLAT, then slide it down the crankshaft taper so that it simply sits alongside of the metal grounding contact of the plate... nothing complicated requiring rocket science mentality.

HOWEVER... One very important aspect of the "anti reverse spring" pertains to lubrication which is essential, and the lubrication can be only one type of grease (Type D) which is a high pressure grease used on such type bearings as generator, magneto, or wheel bearings... actually any bearing that experiences very high revolutions. DO NOT attempt to use any other type grease as it will not last!

After the spring is in place, use a small stick, sturdy toothpick, a tool of your choosing to grease the spring's contact area on the crankshaft thoroughly.

The container of the grease must specify that it is a "Extreme High Pressure" grease, no doubt available at any automotive parts shop, and also at your local dealership..... part number 508303.

If you skip this step, the friction will wear out the metal of the spring, rendering it useless and a ridge will wear into the crankshaft. A damaged or non existent anti reverse spring will result in a scenario whereas when starting the engine, the engine could easily hiccup, spit back, whatever (which any engine normally experiences at times) but this engine would start running in the reverse rotating mode. The anti reverse spring, hence it's name, prevents this condition.

Thanks Joe! thats mint! I have just read this after getting it back on and greasing everything i think, but now on the back of this i will go check again and look closely and check i have greased properly. It just happened i did the ball joints in my car not long ago so have the exact grease! A big thanks to all contributors! Fabulous place this forum!!:D:D:D:D
 
So......just to be sure, the spring sits flat against plate. The the tang does not go through the loop in the spring? Thanks

No, the spring loop DOES NOT have the tang go thru it. When the engine is running, the friction of the crankshaft upon the spring keeps the spring loop "away" from that tang. If the engine tries to run backwards, the friction causes the spring to make contant with the tang which effectively shorts out the ignition.

Think about it..... If the tang went thru the loop of the spring, the ignition would be shorted permantly and you would have one hellava time trying to start that thing. :)
 
No, the spring loop DOES NOT have the tang go thru it. When the engine is running, the friction of the crankshaft upon the spring keeps the spring loop "away" from that tang. If the engine tries to run backwards, the friction causes the spring to make contant with the tang which effectively shorts out the ignition.

Think about it..... If the tang went thru the loop of the spring, the ignition would be shorted permantly and you would have one hellava time trying to start that thing. :)

All Good! Makes total sense. Just hard to see sometimes when your too close to something. All thats left is setting the points gap and get new ignition coil. Thanks for all the help! :eek:
 
Right having done all but the point setting i need some instruction on this last part. Has twin points. They dont both open at the same time so whats procedure? Go to #1 find TDC and set open points then what?
I know i have seen threads but cant find them now

Sorry i have never set points before but can with direction. Any help in this greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Put the timing, the TDC setting, all of that out of your mind... you're over thinking the project and making it complicated. Re-read my instructions slowly... it'll sink in.

Simply set the points, one at a time on the high lobe of the crankshaft cams, checking the setting on "all" of the cams as per my instructions... then go to the next set of points and do the same thing. After setting the gap on both points, double check the settings.
 
Well my new ignition coil turned up today. However its supposedly a replacement part from CDI (183-2382) My old coil has high tension wire and 2 other wires. This new one only has the high tension and 1 other wire. Anyone know how to hook this new one up? Its supposed to be the successor to the old one. Dont want to hook up wrong and blow it or something else.
Thanks
 
A aah help! Just finished points and things putting stator back on and over tightened one of the screws. The screw doesn't completely tighten. Donkey effort I know! Can I use lock tight or thread? Come all this way to make a rookie mistake like over tightening! Not done it in over 20 years! Grrrrrrrrrr!
 
????----------I believe screws for the " stator " go into the block.

They most certainly do. I was wondering why I would need those items. Meanwhile crying into my bourbon about over tightening. Is there a work around racer one? Really appreciate it if there is! 😕
 
Dropped nuts for nothing......no cracks block/stator or stripped thread. Alignment must have been off on that section and it dropped enough to make things loose and think i had stuffed it. Re tightened and it grabbed and its good!
 
That is what I thought you would find !!!-----Hard to strip those threads with that type of head on the screw and with a small screwdriver.-------And , how many times have I seen that misalignment on assembly ?
 
That is what I thought you would find !!!-----Hard to strip those threads with that type of head on the screw and with a small screwdriver.-------And , how many times have I seen that misalignment on assembly ?

Lol! All back together. Started and it seems to be running well! Thanks for the help thus far everyone!

There is another problem. Mentioned earlier in the threads.

Wont go into reverse....wont go to nuetral. Starts..goes fwd.... Nuetral..prop still spinning fwd.....reverse... prop still goes fwd.

Leg oil replaced with type C. Filled from bottom up with pump till it came out top hole...Washers replaced. No visible leaks.

Any Ideas?..would like to start with simple first if okay.
 
Find the wires that go into the lower unit.----------Disconnect at the black rubber boot.--Start the motor--Apply 12 volts to green with a jumper wire.----Apply 12 volts to both wires to get reverse.
 
Find the wires that go into the lower unit.----------Disconnect at the black rubber boot.--Start the motor--Apply 12 volts to green with a jumper wire.----Apply 12 volts to both wires to get reverse.

Trace the wires from the control box to the engine? Can the 12v be taken from the battery while engine running? Going up to take a look. on a side note can i use the engine as is stuck in fwd without wrecking it?
 
I have found an anomaly! Found wires that go into the lower motor with a black rubber boot. Multi pin connection. Of the multi pin connection i have found what seems to be a ground of some sort just hanging out. Motor runs fine without it attached but rev and nuetral were working prior to removal. Wondered if this could be the prob. It goes to the multi pin. It must have been taken off when we removed tilt motor that was all but knackered. If i re connect it where would it connect to?
 
I have no idea of what the "multi pin" connection might be.... you'll need to trace those wires to whatever they lead to.

As for the operation/shifting scenario of the lower unit... read on..............

(Hydro Electric Shift System Explained)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE 1 -The ohm reading of the individual shift solenoids should be between 5 to 6 ohms. The ohm meter should be set to low ohms. The shift wires leading to the solenoids must be disconnected when being tested.

NOTE 2 - The solenoid plunger measurement must be made with the solenoid placed within the lower unit. The measurement must be approximately 1/64" beneath the top surface of the solenoid... NOT above the solenoid surface nor any lower than 1/64" of the solenoid surface. This factory measurement is critical and will not ever change UNLESS someone has tinkered with it.


The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

Note: The engine must be running OR have the driveshaft turning by some other means in order for the engine to shift.


In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)


To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.


This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).

With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
 
Okay. Found Rev and neutral wires at power head. Blue and green..... with an ohm Metre what's the procedure for test? Is it +ve to green -ve to engine case to get reading without the engine on? Also there is a ground wire coming from main wire loom. Black. Not connected to anything. What should it be attached too? Schematic says one end attached at main bus. Any ideas?
 
Ohm Test: Have wires that lead to lower unit disconnected.

Ohm meter black lead to any powerhead ground (clean bolt/screw/etc).

Ohm meter red lead to either wire, green or blue, then to the other colored wire. Both should read the same.
--------------
 
Ohm Test: Have wires that lead to lower unit disconnected.

Ohm meter black lead to any powerhead ground (clean bolt/screw/etc).

Ohm meter red lead to either wire, green or blue, then to the other colored wire. Both should read the same.
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Dam! I was hoping beyond hope that you would say the green wire should read 1 and the blue wire 5 or 6! Blue read 5 or 6. Green got no read. Stayed at 1! How do I fix? I will check again tomorrow to be sure! Gutter ed as! Sounds like a pull apart! Can I run happily stuck in fed mean time? Thanks guys! Even bad news is good if it isolates the problem!
 
Yes, you can do that... BUT... NOT safely!

With no neutral or reverse present, one second of having your attention diverted could result in disaster!

In that case....can I hook up blue wire to green from box to get neutral without killing blue solenoid? Thanks.
 
?????-------12 volts to the green wire get you neutral.-----12 volts from the blue wire is not going to help here.---The blue and green together get you REVERSE !!-------------You can not customize the workings of this simple shift system.
 
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?????-------12 volts to the green wire get you neutral.-----12 volts from the blue wire is not going to help here.---The blue and green together get you REVERSE !!-------------You can not customize the workings of this simple shift system.

The control housing ground wire....where does that connect too? One end is sitting loose on floor of boat. The other is connected into main harness. Could this effect things?
 
The control housing ground wire....where does that connect too? One end is sitting loose on floor of boat. The other is connected into main harness. Could this effect things?

Any ideas? THe electrical schematic i got says its a ground but i dont know where to attach it too! It doesnt seem to affect start up or running. Does anyone know?
 
Your testing has indicated a low ohm reading on the forward solenoid.------------Not that hard to replace that solenoid.--Did one a month ago !
 
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